Truffle Jordan is growing well. I’m surprised it’s doing so well seeing it started out as a weird little deformed seedling from the start. I thought it was gonna be a mutant but I guess not. It’s actually growing better than the one I had as a back up

Keep an eye on ph and EC I change reservoir every Monday Bucket change - EC 1.9 -2.0 , ph 6 REMEMBER MY EC INCLUDES WATER (0.4).

For sure i will keep this plant in stock. Very different and potent head high with great looking buds and strong flavor.

Lumatek - 75% , Totally untrained! I try with defoliation, light intensity and distance from plant's top to make a flat canopy. Thanks for watching my dairy!

Buenas noches familia, actualizamos la semana 3 de floración, y es que están increíbles nuestras gorillas girls, tienen un grosor de 7mm de tallo central, espectacular. Empezaron a formarse nuestras flores y es que ya tenemos muchas ganas de ver como se ponen estos ejemplares. El ph está controlado en 6,5 regamos cada 48h , todos los riegos llevan nutrientes. Es predominante sativa y tarda alrededor de 9 semanas.

Como siempre y siempre en la mitad de ciclo de grow, os regalo un vídeo para que sigáis mi evolución. Es un privilegio tener tantísimos amigos (más que seguidores tan solo) 4:20 Siempre y que el Dios Jah nos guarde siempre. All you need is Love ( CANSerbero VIVE)!

11. Woche Ich gieße sie mittlerweile mit Eiskaltem Wasser und das hat dazu geführt, dass Green Gelato Auto von RQS Purplet 😍 Schaut euch gerne die Bilder an, sie sieht wirklich traumhaft aus. 7-10 Tage noch, dann hat sie den Punkt erreicht, der mir gefällt 😄😊 Ich habe die gestern alle gespült. Insgesamt habe ich 4x Wasser durch jeden Topf laufen lassen.

Shes chugging along like a steam engine! I'm so excited to have this in my arsenal. I'm also very content with the way she handled the LST. I'm sure she would be very tall without the training all of that energy would have went to the main cola. Shes budding quickly at this stage shes very happy with less soil than more as it dries quickly I hope others learn this as well. I've found using less soil is producing my largest autos with fox farm ocean forest. It's not how deep the roots go but rather how wide. Check back next week to see just how fast she buds & remember its 4:20 somewhere!!!!!!

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

All going well.... 2 phenos superb... Others ok... Nice smell all round Going into the final 3 weeks and they are solid and very crystalline looking.... Very happy with ethos... Thank you.... Will keep buying their genetics or I lose😁👏😂 OH boy oh boy oh boy.... Feels like oh boy 😂

Day 64 - Starting the 10th week today and she’s just chugging along. Getting fatter and filling in more everyday. Gave her the first feeding of the week today and thinking about giving her a good flush at the end of the week and just water her till the end. Day 65 - Man oh man I’m looking forward to chopping this girl. She just gets fatter everyday. Debating on starting to flush this week so she’ll get a good two weeks to use everything up. Seeing some of the pistils starting to get a neon orange so I’m starting to think the end of week 11 will be it for this girl. Pretty much all milky trichs with a couple amber in there and no clear. She’s coming to the end of the line. Day 66 - Gave her a full gallon of pH’d water today and counting down to harvest day. I lowered the lights to about 8-10” because the heads on the buds really seem to be stretching and not looking normal. Don’t know if the lowering of lights will help, she’s “foxtailing” a bit it this is just normal for this strain. Hopefully lowering the lights will help. Day 67 - Decided, after some research and advise from here, to raise the lights instead of lowering because that would make the foxtailing worse. Will most likely chop her in about 10ish days, so going to start flushing tomorrow. Despite the foxtailing, the buds are still FAT and heavy! Day 68 - Seems like raising the lights kind of helped with the foxtailing a bit but we’ll see what happens her last week and a half or so. Flushed her with 2 gallons of pH’d water and some of foxfarm’s sledgehammer. Will give her straight water from now until chopping day. Hopefully she fills in a bit more but either way, she’s definitely fat and happy for the most part. Day 70 - End of week 10 today and will most likely chop next weekend. Letting her dry out still and thinking about no more water till chop but we’ll see how she looks throughout the week.

Harvest time for LSD! Another successful grow in the books with this strain. Absolutely a joy to grow, love this strain. Thanks for stopping by growfessors, check back in 7-10 days for dry weight and smoke report. Update July 1, 99 grams dry and typical fruity/citrus flavor from LSD.

8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

**** HAARVEST ZOE **** Nice Strain , My little Zoe really made all the mistakes you could possibly make. No matter when I give light or want water or fertilizer. It grows and grows and grows, the main thing is that there is light. It was one of my free seeds from Zamnesia. So far all seeds have germinated. I store my seeds in a dark, airtight container at 6°C. Tastes kind of sweet after curing. Greenhouse Feeding is a really easy fertilizer to use. I used the BioEnhancer again and again. My little Zoe thanked me. The BioGrow was used as topdressing and is doing its job. The BioBloom also does its job at the right time. And that's really great and easy if you don't have an autoflower. Of course there is a corresponding product. But I was happy to get anything here at all. Legalization has wiped out the market. But for next time I have an appropriate soluble fertilizer for fast-flowering plants. It doesn't work for 8 weeks :)) I use a Sanlight Evo 3-60 1.5 with Bluetooth dimmer. There's nothing to complain about there. Set daily cycle via app. Helpful if the weather or environment is so bad that you have to regulate the light intensity. 33g after 5 days dry . 24.5 °C to 22°C with 50%-60% . curing in a vaccum box at 18°C . It looks like I'm drying too long. // It tastes a bit crunchy. Day 79: trim , slow vacuum box to cure 22°C and 61%rH . Day 76: videostuff: been drying for 4 days (res 640x480) ( optical zoom x200 - x250 ) Day 72: DLI usage total this Plant : 2236.6 DLI in 70 Days . wet trimmed, cut off, hung upside down. see you after 14 days Day 71: preparing for harvest . 24h long night session . DLI : 0 Day 70: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 800PPFD (03:30) - 800PPFD (16:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF video and photo tryouts with the digimicro mobil x300 optical zoom , mostly freehand Day 69: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 1000PPFD (03:30) - 1000PPFD (14:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF incredibly hot and rain. lost some terpene :)) Well, summer is coming, Day 68: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 600PPFD (00:30) - 800PPFD (03:30) - 800PPFD (14:30) - 600PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - Added 1L bottle of water It's hot, hot, hot, Zoe would like more water. changed daylight cycle so it match the weather problems. tent is open until my real night comes. 103 flowers (including popcorn) counted, due to an accident about 15 flowers are missing. Day 67: - Sanlight DaylightCycle - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 600PPFD (00:30) - 900PPFD (03:30) - 900PPFD (14:30) - 600PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - watering bottle water 1.75L weather to hot , changed daylight start time and daylight cycle so it match the weather problems. I'm lucky, buds are still growing :))) Day 66 (we are on the road with maximum sanlight ) - analyse some trichome . - make some Zoom Pics and Video stuff . - Sanlight DaylightCycle : - + ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 1000PPFD (00:30) - 1000PPFD (13:30) - 800PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF - DLI will stress alot ... Anyway, it's too hot in my room... I open the tent and now everything is fine with the temperatures and I increase the Sanlight to 100% for the first time. May Zoe love it or leave it :)) We'll see what happens Day 65 : Sanlight DaylightCycle : ON 200PPFD (00:00) - 800PPFD (00:30) - 850PPFD (13:30) - 800PPFD (17:30) - 200PPFD (18:00) OFF It will soon be ready for harvest.

Now comes the fun part. As some friends of the fantastic Growdiaries community pointed out to us, we begin to see that the waiting time is about to be repaid, the peaks are taking on their final shape and I believe that shortly, after a good final blowjob of various boosters, we will leave for a flush of at least two weeks