La amnesia zkittlez as les trichome bien laiteux , elle as donc commencer la flush il y as quelque jour. Odeur de zkittlez rouge . Ça va être un délice en bouche j'en suis sûr. La banana purple punch est beaucoup plus lente à fleurir. La structure prend du temps avan d'apparaître. Présentement grande tête flufy souhaite durcir

Yo yo yo what's poppin fellas. We now in week 6. Had a little defolliation going today. 3G is my favorite so far. It smells amazing.

Week 28/4 - 5/5

68 days of flower sticky frosty solid buds branches supported becomes big dark green buds covered with frost

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil. Day 1 we had clear skies sunshine. Temperatures were in the low 80's. Day 2 we had partly cloudy skies, low humidity, and temps in the lower 80's. I watered about 1.25 gallons per pot. Day 3 we had lite showers in the morning, partly cloudy skies and temperatures in the low 80's the remainder of the day. Day 4 we had showers in the early morning until afternoon. Then it was mostly sunny with high temperature around 79. Day 5 we had lots of sunshine and temperatures in the low 80's. I watered about a gallon out of the water hose. Day 6 it was mostly sunny with temperatures reaching 82°. The pots are drying out fast. Today I watered about 1.5-2 gallons of well water from the hose. I added 50mo ferrous sulfate top dressed to each pot. Day 7 we had thunderstorms, rain, and drizzle early morning and intermittently throughout the day. Temperatures were upper 70's. This week was a success. The plants on average grew 12" in height. The excessive rain hasn't been a problem and they are thriving. The only issue is the rain is washing the iron out. This caused some mild chlorosis in the new growth. I added a little iron to each pot and that'll fix it once they start picking it up. I've decided to let these grow naturally after the topping.

beautiful girl is growing strong hope she flowers soon

Esta semana a ido muy bien la que estaba un poco más pequeña y resentida ya está mejor y algo me dará 😁 de momento tienen una medida de entre 14 y 15 cm desde la tierra a la punta yo creo que le daré un par de semanas más de crecimiento el riego sigue siendo el mismo que la semana pasada comentar que tuve mosca blanca la mosca de la tierra y con 3 pulverizaciones de jabón potásico diluido con agua y Santo remedio 👌la semana que viene OS sigo informando cualquier comentario o Consejo que me quieran dar bien venido es 😁 un saludo familia buenos humos paz

Almost done, 3 seeds by Paradise seeds should be done with a 65 day flowering time

Continued growth, feeding every 3 days as soil dries out. Nice growth spurts noted and apical dominance broken via LST as limbs/new growth reach skyward. Minor fan leaf removal to permit light saturation and airflow to lower areas. Feeding 1/2 gallon per plant about every 3 days.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

All going well 26.9.21 sprayed all apart from orange haze with half strength neem 0.125ml mixed with 100ml overgrow 26.9.21 gb got first preflower 24 days 26.8.21 cream mandarina first preflower 18 days 27.9.21 Dg 4.5L Wc 2L Gb. 3.25L Gave all half strength veg with fish instead of grow ph6.2 Chemdogging 2L Cream 2L Same as above but with recharge and mammoth p. ph6.5 29.9.21 Dg 3L Wc 2L Gb 3L Water only ph6.3 1.10.21 Dg 4.5L Week 1 flower half strength plus silica 1ml/L. Recharge. Mammoth p. Cal mag. Showing slight deficiency on about 6 leaves 0h6.4 Wc.3L Gb3.25L Chem3L Hubba3L Cream.3L Gave all half strength veg plus recharge. Mammoth p and silica 1mlL ph6.4 1.10.21 spectrum king 112cm Lumatek 62cm 2.10.21 Super orange 1 Super orange 2 Both 1L week one half strength 3/4 strength root juice and recharge ph 2.19.21 hubbabuba and chemdogging first preflower 21 days 2.10.21 started training orange no1 2.10.21 Dg46cm Wc32cm Gb35cm Chem29.5cm Hubba20cm Cream.24cm Orange. 1 15.5cm 0range 214cm

She looks very healthy and strong strong in the beginning of the 3rd week of flower,smells just like her sisters very sweet but I don't feel any cherry notes yet 🍒, but the aroma it's definitely flowery and sweet,very nice,let's see what this ladies can do

i accidently bought some unbuffered coco and mixed it with my ussual earth, had major calmag problems in mid-flower but i´m still pleased with the results...also had a little trouble with mold at the end due to bad weather and high humidity in the final weeks of the grow, had to remove a few buds and harvest early @ day 55 of flower....but there's still alot of great looking buds left for me to enjoy and all look mostly done... Just harvested and hung them upside down, currently drying them at constant 19.5-20.5°C and 50-60% RH..will update as soon as they are dry

3/18 Week 12 Day 34/Flower Have a Norto virus in the house so being brief All looks good no changes at this time waiting on buds to say when 3/19 Day 35/F Lot happened overnight, looking like end of week for flush. Will continue PK for one more day as time for the last push here now as upped nuets about 200ppm. PK ends Friday, nuets will drop back 200ppm at the same time. Flush begins 3/24 Tuesday... 08:05 PDT ... 😏 3/21 Day 37/F Pics Some foxtailing began today but heat is ok so no worries, its all bud. Stopped the PK booster and reduced nuets to get ready for flush next week. She will go over a few days (46 -42=4) but its all good. 3/22 D38/F Pics Tricones all milky white and full Flush Tuesday Last feed Monday at half strength 3/23 D39/F Last feeding at half strength but tossed in a dose of Recharge just to see if it matters. doubt it would but it needed using as it hitting its effective date. Flush begins tomorrow morning 3/24 D40/F Flushed using 10 gallons PHed tap water and 5ml/gal flushing agent. Pic and vid

2024.09.08 D70 a cold week so far, remember that summer slowly pass by. As expected the fast berry get a nice purple tone dress, with a lot a trichrome shining like diamond on this late summer cold rain. The 3 top cola gain weight and its became hard to have this lady sit in their bucket, she keep dancing with this fall raising wind. black berry is not apart, she start smelling really heavy, and is bud coverred... we are good for another week...maybe two.... untill next time keep growing

For me it was a bad and regular growth .. I prefer other varieties

20/12: Made the 2nd apical cut to the 4 arms to get the 8 colas and a full defolation of low part(i think the defolation was unnecesary but i was very excited hahaha)

First week under the Lumatek 600 Pro set to 50% and aporox 40cm away from canopy. Day 7 applied some pruning and supercropped the few taller girls to even out the canopy. I will add a CO2 bag next week as i increase the power to avoid potential light stress.