The aloe seems to have taken hold in the plant's nutrients just as we approached 130 days and the buds perfect, we're almost there. Getting ready to consider a good flushing.

Still spraying with Monterey BT to control the boring moth larvae. Leaned the area and provided the nutes. Watering is on the same schedule and flower production is booming. Next week I will provide video of the nutrient solution application method.

Well folks we chopped the Last of the Strawberry Blast 😁 The Strawberry Banana 🍌 Strawberry Blast Series 🍓 🍓 🍓 🍓 was a real blast , ive now done 5 Strawberry Cultivars and I'm extremely happy with all the results 😀 Killer Stuff 😀 I want to thank all my growmies for stopping in and showing your support 🙏 it's been much appreciated 🙏 Well my friends that's it for me for awhile😌 So until next time my friends 👉 Happy Growing and of course 🙂 Happy Smoking ........ Later Growmies 👊👊 be well 👌 FC4800 from MarsHydro Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........I've added a RU45 to the mix www.marshydro.ca 👉I am using Agrogardens for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.agrogardens.com 👈 Agrogardens Cal MAG Agrogardens Grow A B Agrogardens Bloom A B Agrogardens Bud Booster Agrogardens PK13/14 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 Would you like to hang with the growdiary community 👉 https://discord.gg/gr4cHGDpdb 👈

Start of week 5 today, everything seems to be going great! The Gelato OG is by far the biggest plant of the bunch so far but they all seem to be taking well to LST, HST , Topping & defoliation! Will be going in the flower tent as soon as the other ladies harvest so they will probably have atleast 2 to 3 more weeks of veg!

This thing is insane! Rapidly growing everyday. I need to keep it under control for another for about 30 more days before I can fit it in my other tent.

The greatest diary continues.. Dogs on dogs on dogs

Overall I was very satisfied with this grow. Pyramid seeds did a excellent job with this strain I highly recommend it to all growers new and experienced. It’s a easy to grow plant does really well in veg. I give this grow a 9 out of 10.

By the start of the week I’ve noticed magnesium deficiency on plant A and B, so I started adding Biobizz Calmag on Froglord’s kind recommendation. Otherwise I started slow defoliation process and I’m currently removing around two leaves per day. Plants definitely grew larger than expected but I’m not mad :D. They’re taking a bit longer, but it should be worth it. I’m expecting harvest on plants C and D soon.

Power plant xl, una variedad sativa, es de temprana floración. 3/3 unidades, algo tardías en cuanto al desprendimiento del caparazón de la semilla. Lo demás todo correcto.

31/1 So yes I've had some trouble keep this lady under control, she keep forcing again LST so to give a better light compensation at the lower branches I've cut a top leaf, now the canopy look much more uniform hope she gonna react and respond well, we'll see in the next days 4/4 So we had an amazing week, the runtz improves a lot and start to produce many withe pistils, it's gonna be the last week of vegetation so from now on i was thinking to add an extra light, the low branches are streching out and the top cola it's incrementing his yield, hope to see new nice improvement btw Happy easter!

420 Fastbuds Week 2 Veg FBT2305 The two of these are starting off great. The few rust spots stopped and stayed on the couple leafs it showed up on. I feed 500ml of solution every other day. I did start the General Hydroponics 3 part Flora series as well as the Calimagic. On week one I started 1/4tsp per gal ratio every other feed, so far no burn so will probably bump it up this coming week and see how they respond. All in all Happy Growing.

Day 56-63 (Day 5F-12F) (Day 6) Water retention is still a big issue in this soil, even with the reduced amendments, loose compaction and added perlite. Pots just aren’t drying out fast enough and I still need to water in enough to reach the bottom. I wish I had some flood trays for this exact reason so I could bottom water instead. (Day 9) I’m going to try running 2 liters of water through each pot until I see a good amount of runoff on each plant. Maybe the nutrient content of the soil is just too high. If this doesn’t work, I got nothing. Plants are drooping like crazy but that’s not surprising as I just flooded them. I’m going to turn on the carbon filter to clear out the humidity a lot faster. Over the next few days I’m going to let the filter suck the life out of this tent until it’s bone dry. If I start seeing deficiencies arise from my minor flush, I will foliar feed some 1-1-1 kelp and some 3-0-0 calmag. I highly doubt I will see any deficiencies but it doesn’t hurt to plan ahead. (Day 11) Ladies responded well to that heavy watering which is a little surprising honestly. The pots are still soaked and super heavy but they seem to be happy. (Day 12) I’m really not seeing any well defined bud sites which is not a good sign at this point. I have never grown under HPS and have never flowered a true 10 week strain so it could just take a little longer in early flower. So far I’m unimpressed

Yes! harvest time! Buds r very solid, smelling very sweet and have lovely colours of pink in it.. but dang! so sticky!! She was in a 5L pot but she grew hard, like the beast she is 😎👍 Sticky was on tour a lot She started out on my window sill with only 13H of daylight and NO sunshine! But the winter was long, and i just could not wait any longer! 👊 ..then she went in my little greenhouse in my garden//and when she got bigger, she got an upgrade to the big safehouse (also in garden) and now and then she could stay on my gardentable to catch few rays.. She has battled a lot of bad (storms!) and cold weather and with that came a lot of bugs and pests..(big safe house is open at the sides.. its more a cover to protect them from rain and wind) But she still kept on growing like she did not care.. Only the last week of her grow she got some nice weather and i think she was very happy i let her enjoy that before chop!👏 yes i can write a lot about this grow, but i can also just say: WOW! my whole garden smelled very sweet thanks to her but im sure my neighbours are happy she is gone..😆 And don't forget: FOR ALL MY GROWBROS IS A DISCOUNTCODE: ZAMMIGD2023 YOU GET 20% OFF @ZAMNESIA! 😎 happy growing for all✊

25.08.2024 day 14 of flowering. finally got somme sun after 6 day of rain, the camper berry look fine. showing nice grow and nice flower build up. the blackberry just look like shooting star in the night sky. fast berry have start to show dark coloration to, with the night temp getting colder as the summer slowly past by she should have a nice dress by end of september.

This will be the start of week #2 of seedling stage. Had an issue 😢 with my blue dream plant I believe I’ve might of over watered . It looks bad hopefully it can recover. Yield may be stunted really lagging behind. Also I have another blue dream seed so I’m thinking of starting that one fresh so I can pot into the finale medium. I didn’t want to use the cup but didn’t have enough soil at the time 🤷‍♂️ The strawberry 🍓 banana 🍌 auto and the power plant fem seems to be doing good 👍 so far. All in all I’m happy 😊 with how things have been going throughout my grow . I’ll will be feeding my plants nutrients and dropping the lights 💡 for the start of Veg next week. Let’s goooo… 😎😏

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Vigorous Males, Strong Clones, and Bud Formation This week was full of action in the grow! Two out of the three males are in full bloom, and I’m actively collecting pollen. They are impressive plants, with strong structures and large pollen sacs. If everything stays on track, I believe the females will be ready for pollination in about a week. Observations: All 18 clones have successfully rooted! Some have already entered the vegetative stage and are receiving supplemental light at nightfall to keep their growth steady. The plants responded very well to the light defoliation I did earlier. Now, the buds are starting to take shape, showing great progress in the flowering phase. To optimize this stage, I spaced out the pots, ensuring better airflow and increased light penetration, which should support full and healthy flowering. This week, I plan to top off the pots with more substrate, ensuring the plants have enough space and nutrients to reach their full potential. Next Steps: Keep monitoring the males and collecting pollen at the right time. Watch the females closely to determine the ideal moment for planned pollinations. Observe the clones' growth and adjust care as needed. The grow is on the right track, and expectations for the coming days are high!

Weekly update on these beautiful ladies. They're starting to stretch upward and started the preflower stage. Seeing no issues from the transition from Athena Grow A&B to the Bloom A&B with some added P&K. I did a light defoliation taking off the lower fan leafs and really anything at the soil level. All in all Happy

Got both plants started and transferred into the Hydro setup, both seem to be growing well. I just recently installed 2 UV B lights on the wall that turn on for a few hours mid day. Interested to see if I notice a difference with them in there.

This week, we feed mycorrhizal fungi to the plants and it gets the excellent results. The plants grow extraodinarily.