Alright! This week is finally done and this will be the last vegetative growth week for the plants. Switching to flower tonight :D I have done some defoliation and a bit of lollipopping to the 3 plants, I was noticing the shadows where quite dark on the tent floor and the plants where not crazy tall so they needed to be managed, If I was outdoors I would just LST them some more and not worry about any of it but indoors the airflow is tight and it was needed, cleaning up the undercanopy was none negotiable or some bad things would have happened in flower. Mainly molds or worse WPM. I also removed the string supports I has on the plants when they broke from some LST I did a few weeks ago. In the stripping down of the plants I removed a lot of lower immature growths and took out some immature branches, I have all these sitting in a glass of water and will clone them out for shits and giggles, I think their is about 15 of them or more, maybe I will go and plant them aorund my neighbourhood in municipal planters. Plus now I can work in the topdressings that will be required in the upcoming weeks to keep these plants happy and healthy. Going to continue amending in some of the bokashi in the feedings as well as worm castings as they give off a nice ammount of microbes for the soil. I wish I had some of my LABs for this grow but I did not make any. The clones from before are doing fine, just did not take any pics of them. The butterwort is doing a fantastic job of eating up the gnats. I have some nematodes on hand for when its had its fill as I won't want them getting into the flowers as they ripening. Big shoutout to Medic Grow for sponsoring the lighting in my tent, They have provided me with 2x Mini Sun 2's in the 240w configuration, They use the v1 growing spectrum that is a all purpose seed to harvest spectrum so their is no hassle of switching it mid grow. If you interested in learning more about Medic Grow products please visit the web link below. https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/MedicGrowLED

Día 15 (04/11) Las plantas se muestran esplendidas después del 1er riego e introducir la 1ª Bio Tab! 😍 Subo a DLI 35 Día 16 (05/11) Las plantas se muestran espectaculares y radiantes! Un color verde intenso y sano! 😍 Día 17 (06/11) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 tiene un crecimiento increíble! El resto tiene un desarrollo perfecto para sus días 17 días de vida! Día 18 (07/11) Mudanza y riego! Las plantas se mudan al armario definitivo de 60 x 120 cm por varios motivos: - CBD Auto 20:1 #1 está empezando a tocar las paredes del armario pequeño - CBD Auto 20:1 #2 ha tenido una ventilación menos adecuada que sus compañeras, ya que el ventilador quedaba justo encima de ella, y el flujo de aire era inadecuado Esto ha provocado que la maceta de CBD Auto 20:1 #2 no se seque a la misma velocidad que el resto. Espero que no afecte a su crecimiento - Las plantas pasan a tener dos lámparas a su disposición (230W + 100W) ajustadas con el regulador al 60% - Mantenemos DLI 35 tras varios ajustes (tener 2 lámparas simultáneamente es más complicado de ajustar!) - Colocamos dos ventiladores oscilantes para que el flujo de aire sea adecuado dentro de la carpa Riego: 4 días después del 1er riego, las macetas se muestran "ligeras" excepto CBD Auto 20:1 #2 por la falta de ventilación comentada arriba Riego con 750 ml de H2O RO excepto CBD Auto 20:1 #2 Día 19 (08/11) Las plantas se muestran esplendidas y creciendo mucho! Día 20 (09/11) Macetas poco pesadas, pero no lo suficientemente ligeras para regar Se muestran las preflores! 😍 Día 21 (10/11) Introduzco la 2ª Bio Tab a 5 cm de profundidad, lado izquierdo Riego con 750 ml de H2O RO a todas excepto CBD Auto 20:1 #2 que se riega con 1 Litro Aplicación foliar de Boom Boom Spray 5 ml/L. Aplicar justo después de encender la iluminación. Aplico LST a CBD Auto 20:1 #2 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

Little bit of a delay. Wanted to get climate perfect before the flip. Upgraded ventilation and have the tent dialed in well at 74 degrees and 60% humidity during day and 70deg/ 55% at night. Started a second scrog on Day 42. Nervous about the stretch but hopefully I can maintain it (I wish T5 lights could flower...) Did extensive trimming underneath clearing pretty much anything that will never reach the ceiling of green above it. Day 45 marks last day of Veg Day 46 marks first day of flower AND. HERE. WE. GO.

Finita la settimana domenica inizio con sola acqua

Día 39, sigo con el problema de fertilización, aún no trabajo en ello. Puse un sistema de generación de CO2 para apoyar la floración.

AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! Hermi!!!! Our beautiful mystery plant is sporting pollen sacks.. she just went on a field trip.. we're closing this diary out.. we'll let her finish naturally outside and salvage what we can for edibles and bubble hash... a very depressing outcome to a lot of work and training... we don't know if this was genetic or stress induced and have about 3 medium sized plants cloned from her in veg atm.. we're hesitant to flower any of them, instead we're taking all new clones from our GDP thats in 3rd week of flower, hoping for a fast re-veg... thanks for reading..be sure to inspect your plants diligently friends..happy growing

Another great week of sunshine , plants are well into flower now and looking great. Been down and have a good feed of grow and bloom. That’s all this week, happy growing 🌱

Best Cannabis Nutrients Brand 2025

Shoutout to Plagron, crowned Best Cannabis Nutrients Brand 2025 by our GrowDiaries.com growers! Huge thanks to our community for voting! #GrowDiaries @plagron_official

Sindsygt godt ramt af mig ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ 0.1 minus grader i nat. I morges 6.8 grader. kl 7dansk tid. Og kl Ca 13. 39.8 grader. Lige nu kl 1645 dansk tid. 23.4. 😉

These girls are monsters. Lol they kinda got away on me this week as I got bit busy, and I was forced to turn down my light to 750w to keep my D.P.I. In check. All good though now and things are ramping up. Not much else to say really, just keeping things rolling along. Some strains are just easy...lol Stay tuned for more next week! Cheers 💨

I hung dried for three days and then bagged them up in brown paper bags for two days due to the low temps and humidity before jaring them.

Trop Cherry #8 x BeeJayz hasn’t been topped, I transplanted the girls this week from a 1 gallon pot to a 3 gallon pot. Trop Cherry was in a plastic pot but now in a fabric pot. Plants seem to be growing well.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Day 24-31 (Day 25) The smell in here is absolutely ridiculous. My last grow didn’t smell even close to this bad in early flower. (Day 27) Stretch is finally all done. #6 in the back is very stout and barely stretched compared to everything else. I doubt it will yield much but I’m excited to see the nice tight colas on it. It seems to be still getting adequate light and raising it up is hard to do with a scrog net so I will just leave it. If it wasn’t getting enough light it would be stretching right? The early frost is really shocking to me. My last indoor round definitely wasn’t this caked and I’ve never had an outdoor plant on this level either. That’s also true in terms of smell too. (Day 29) I’m still debating whether I should feed anything in flower or just leave it. The only deficiency I’m seeing is purple stems from P def which could actually just be from light intensity rather than a lack of P. I’ve done some thinking and I’ve decided to only feed my small plant. What I’m most curious about is if a PK boost will actually make any kind of a difference in flower when it comes to bud size and smokability. So to test this theory I will be top dressing a teaspoon of 0-18-0 bat guano, a tablespoon of 1-4-2 Destiny launch and a half strength watering of 0-0-15 kelp extract. I’m trying to avoid N all together as I just toxed my guinea pig plants with another experimental flowering PK boost that had a very small amount of N in it. This plant in particular actually has very early signs of N def and probably will fade harder than the rest. (Day 31) Shit. Looks like #1 is starting to herm. It’s definitely not environment or light leaks so maybe it’s just genetic or the recent leaching stressed it out too much. Either way, it’s only a single lower branch and I’m prepared to cut her down if I start seeing anymore. I double checked every other budsite but couldn’t find anymore. In my experience true herms usually start pushing bananas out of the main tops and plants like mine can usually be salvaged with little to no seeded bud. But then again it’s day 31, when these things usually start to happen. I’m 50/50 on this one. I will be watching it everyday like a hawk if anymore show up. The breeder I’m using, ‘Jordan of the Island’s’ is notorious for having unstable genetics and this will be the last time I run any of his stuff. The quality is good, certainly better than most European and Dutch genetics I’ve run but I know I could do better where genetics are concerned. I can’t wait to start hunting my archive dosidos x gelato 41 and in house sugarcane.

🌸 Kweekverslag – Amnesia autoflower hy seeds Week 5: Week 1 van de bloei (eerste week na 12/12) Lichtschema: 12/12 (bloei gestart) Medium: Aarde (lightmix) Potten: 11 liter Licht: Mars Hydro 450W LED Temperatuur: 21–26°C Luchtvochtigheid: 50–55% Aantal planten: 5 --- 🌱 Groei- & Bloeiontwikkeling Omschakeling naar bloei deze week → planten reageren met "stretch" (rekfase). Hoogte is gemiddeld met 10–20 cm toename in enkele dagen. Eerste bloeihaartjes (witte pistils) verschijnen bij de internodes. Planten zijn goed vol in blad, donkergroen en stevig van structuur. --- ✂️ Training & Structuur ✅ LST afronden deze week — verdere buigingen alleen als het moet. ✅ Onderste bladeren of kleine scheuten zonder toekomstig licht weghalen (lichte defoliatie). ⛔ Niet toppen of hst'en meer! Open bladerdek zorgt voor goede lichtpenetratie tot de zijtakken. --- 💧 Voeding & Watergift pH: 6.3–6.5 Watergift: Bij ±50% droogte van potgewicht (om de 2–3 dagen) Voeding aanpassen op bloei: ✅ Biobizz Bloom: 2 ml/L ✅ Biobizz Grow: 2 ml/L (tijdens rekfase nog aanhouden) ✅ Biobizz Top Max: 1 ml/L (stimuleert bloemvorming) (Eventueel CalMag toevoegen bij signs van calciumtekort) --- 🔍 Waarnemingen Gezonde kleur en houding – bladeren “bidden” licht omhoog. Geen tekorten zichtbaar, geen brandranden of slap blad. Geur neemt toe: citrus/kush met zoete ondertoon Stretch lijkt gelijkmatig te verlopen, nog onder controle. --- 📝 To-do week 6 (bloei week 2) Blijf voeding langzaam opvoeren indien gewenst. Begin eventueel met lichte support aan zijtakken indien ze slap lijken. Luchtvochtigheid langzaam laten zakken naar 45–50% naarmate toppen dikker worden. Controleer dagelijks op schimmel, spint of meeldauw nu het bladerdek dicht wordt.

A few of the zed blacks hermed..spreading pollen into the flower tent. Already seeing some seeds develop. It is what it is. I should have done a better job checking on them. I kept the Zed blacks that only had a couple flowers on the bottom but tossed anything that had flowers growing up the majority of the plant. Some of the most famous strains in the world were self pollinated so I don't have issues with a couple male flowers. They're just trying to improve their fitness as nature intended. The plants are doing very well. A few of the bottom leaves are dying which is normal...senecense! Sucking up those nutrients. I've been liquid feeding using the fish, seaweed, humate and recharge. I have saved the males and they are trying to reveg. Still popping out a few flowers which I'm cutting off. 1 rainbow belt. 1 zed black. 3 hash plants The hash plants are smelling incredible. Definitely a few keepers mixed in here. Maybe 3/7. Hopefully the quality of the flower backs it up. Zed blacks have 2/3 I'm interested in. One is very very low yield. Unless its a really high quality plant I'm gonna toss it Rainbow belts are both smelling ridiculous. Super frosty. Good yield. One is slightly more frosted than the other. The zkittles pheno has pure Skittles smell with a little lemon cleaner chem to back it up. Probably my keeper!

Germination, days: 3 Vega (18/6), days: 35 Flowering (12/12), days: 75 Total, days: 110 EC 0.07 (Athena Cleanse) Ph 6.5 Red 100% Blue 25% UV 20% DLI ~32 T. Day: ~25C T. Night: ~21.5C Humidity: ~57% T.leaf: 24.5C Washed for 2 days with Athena Cleanse (EC 0.07), then 24 hours of darkness and Harvest! Results by dry weight and smoke test after drying and curing (10 days).