---GENERAL COMMENT--- Girls are at day 4 technically, but i like to update Sunday always, so keep that in mind, is 1/2 a week now. From germination to soil emerging took 3-4 days, no issues at all. 100% germination rate from multiple breeders till now. I will try my best to do a stress free grow again, so will grow mainly naturally. ---RQS QUICK ONE--- She is tiny, tiny, tiny. The smallest seedling i ever have worked with. Hope she takes off soon! ---DAY 10 UPDATE--- over some days she got volume, just started to use RECHARGE, and wow, that thing works, 48H you could tell something is different, since watering with it the stem is thicker and is growing more vigorous, lets see how it will impact overall! ---DAY 14 UPDATE--- This is the last day of this week and this girl is showing some kind of wired markings since the beginning in the first sets of leaves, will do her anyways... She grew a lot, showing already the intension of shooting up more stems like her cousin. She will be on plain water and recharge till i stabilise and figure what is going on with her, at least for a week. This strains tend to be easy and do well with low nutes, light and etc, really basic, i like to pay to see so i never give up from a pheno, but is not fun to have issues... No worries though there is always a crop after the other 😎👍. Lets see what happens next.

Planten groeien als kool. Wanneer de eerste bloemen vormen, dan ga ik ze ontbladeren. De planten krijgen melasse- en zeewiervoer en wat lavamolen. --------------------Durban----------------- Durban wietzaden komen oorspronkelijk uit Zuid-Afrika en zijn gekruist gedurende vele jaren in de jaren zeventig. Door al deze kruisingen heeft deze soort zich aangepast aan het Europese klimaat. De planten zijn bestand tegen wind, koude temperaturen en schimmels. Ze bestaat voornamelijk uit Sativa en heeft een bloeitijd van 8 tot 9 weken. Voor zowel de binnen- als de buitenkweek kun je een grote oogst met stevige toppen verwachten. Durban kan buiten een hoogte bereiken van 200-300 cm. Durban is een exclusieve Sativa-soort met een unieke, heerlijke geur. Deze soort staat bekend om zijn kruidige, wazige smaak met sporen van anijs, zoethout, citroen en kruidnagel. Dit heerlijke aroma is een van de redenen waarom zoveel kwekers keer op keer voor Durban kiezen. Eigenschappen van Durban wietzaden Hoog THC gehalte Exclusieve Sativa Hoge opbrengst Sterke soort Heerlijk aroma Informatie Durban wietzaden Bloeitijd: 8 – 9 weken Genetica: Durban x Original Thai 70% sativa, 30% indica Planthoogte buiten: 200 – 300 cm Oogstmaand buiten: van juni t/m oktober Opbrengst binnen: 450 – 650 gr/m² Opbrengst buiten: 200 – 700 gr/plant THC: 20% Link naar de shop: https://seedsgenetics.nl/product/durban-poison-gefeminiseerd/

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Still stretching out them girls are , hope they are almost done 😬.. I think the stretch is pretty well done and my 4x4 tent is full of bud sites wow this is gonna be a great finish I think🤘👌 I took my hps of the hangers and attached it directly to the top of the tent for more room . I have the cool tube hps.with lots of air flow so it doesn't get very hot.

day 49 just pure water phed down. it is day 51, morning before lights on, I might chop today. I use a zero water filter pitcher got off walmart. My humidifier is only a sonic wave. If you use regular tap water it will get gunky in a sonic humidifier. If you have a heat humidifier that boils the water the mist should be clean. These are the 2 types of water humidifiers. Researching best water filters this "zero water" also comes with a free ppm meter! yay! Other water pitcher brands; the water still has ppm. So water misted will still have ppm contamination. You can easily used distilled water only, and reverse osmosis. I just fill a 4gal office water jug with the pitcher and fill my humidifier when needed. I do not use a humidifier in my entire grow up to this point when I chop, I need the perfect rh or this whole effort can fail. growing up to this point only requires 20% effort, chopping now for the 2 weeks dry is this 80% of crucial determination, succeed. A lot of tasks are required today for a clean chop. I feel confident, observed my cross seeds with pink paradise and one with a slightly open caylex looks dark enough for successful germination. I figured 8-16 seeds may be created, 3-4 buds were potentially pollinated. Many growers don't understand when creating genetics with female/female there is a slight chance of herm. You lose 50% of your genetic function. Just water last 2 days, no humic no folvic, 1st time entire grow ha! There is a lot of cleaning to do, remove the trees, clean the entire tent and environment with bleach water, hacksaw. I am very proud of my grow. I have sampled 3 of the strains, dr. thunder legit made my lips numb but it could have just been the terps removing my skin cells from the sticky filter, no lie. This is my best grow to date. I did this for you, and to document hype or not under the best conditions I could give my plants, full max potential, although I wish I had more lights, I am not looking for industrial lol, this is how I grow. Learn a lot on youtube and podcasts there is many good content and I may dab into it. You can have a room full of growers and you have 1 seed in your hand, they will all tell you that their way is correct ;) and the best way. Oreo is stinky AF, Bridal is just amazing glad its massive, just not into sativa but the test seemed slight sativa with majority indica, pink untested, dr, thunder just a lip numming plant aha, its very nice, all 4 amazing appeal like advertised, and excited for next run. Either crosses from this or other copycat genetics. I will give you beautiful glamout shots today, the sizes of the plants, My guesstimate bridal 1lb, thunder 1lb, pink, 0.4lb, bridal 0.5, I am ambitious off 640w lm301h, and 4x 20w blurples daisy chained. day 51 4 chopped see you in a few weeks :D

Didn't stretch as much as she might have done which suits me. On target for plenty of compact buds. Taking the Shogun coco nutrient range like a champ. Only issue I've had is having to defoliate more times than I'd like.

Spayed her with water, baking soda milk mix To prevent bud ror It’s getting really cold and we will have rainy day soon

Notice oh level was low. Only around 5.6ph. So I adjusted the feeds oh to 7.0ph, hopefully it helps get the soils oh back up. **Edit Transplanted Today.

This weeks update is just basically a photo/video dump! At the start of the week I did some lst and a tiny bit of defoliating and the growth just seemed to burst, I noticed they seemed to began to flower! So I went ahead and introduced the net to the set up and the I’m stoked with the way they filled this tent right out!! These cream manderin are truly fast growing buds. I also started adding Big Buds Liquid to the feeding schedule and so far, so good. At this point I’ll just be uploading photos every Tuesday/Wednesday 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Mass cloning! Not sure how many are going in the greenhouse yet but I will just give away any I don't use.

Seems to be taking well to being moved to the 5gal pot. Growing a lot faster after the 2nd day in the bigger pot. Watered for the first time since planting in big pot after 5 days with 1L distilled water (Ph 7) mixed with 1/2 tsp. fox farms grow big and 1/2 tsp. big bloom. Since my soil is considered hot soil I wanted to use less than the recommendation on the bottle.

test for video uploads

Harvest is imminent! I'm basically just waiting for her to drink her last watering. So 1-3 days I guess - my last few "finished" plants basically stopped drinking much at the end, and she seems to be the same. But my last post was about a week ago so one more flowering week report! A few days ago I took off some of the brittle taco-ified fan leafs. My guess is they don't do much for photosynthesis anymore and just prevent lower growth from getting light. Upper leafs by now have turned a pretty violet/plum color! I put a leaf from another plant in the picture for comparison.😊 Structurally there is little change since last week. Smell is still incredible too! She is significantly heavier than three weeks ago so the stems are losing the battle against gravity.. but as she's coming down in a few I'm not gonna go wild with jojos or garden wire. 🤷

D19 (10/12/2020): Beginning of week 3. I saw little yellow/brown spot on big leaves and new leaves, I need to check this closely. I fed with half of the recommended dose but 1.5-1.75L of water per plant. I was giving 1L max and I think it was not enough for the size of my pots. RH of the grow tent is now down at 60%. - temps: 26C - water: PH6.3, PPM: 410 - RH: 60% D20 (11/12/2020): Today I saw thrips larva crawling on a leaf (see video above). That confirm my problem is not a nutrients deficiency. I know how I got them and it's a rookie mistake from me. At the beginning of my grows, I placed a plant in my tent that was originally outdoor during fall. I did not think that it would be infested with bugs. I removed it when I saw a little bugs fly in my tent but the damage was probably already done. I read about thrips and you can get rid of them if you act fast and soon in the infestation. I will go to my local horticulture store today and ask advices and ways to exterminated them. I'm a newbie in growing cannabis (plants in general) and I want the best for my plants. I'm learning from my mistake and that's what I like! Overall, both plants are growing fast and they react really well to LST. I readjust the tie 2-3x a day because the small leaves are growing so fast! - temp: 26C - no water - RH: 60% D21 (12/12/2020): I bought insecticidal soap and gave a treatment. RH is now at 55% and that increases air flow. -temp: 26C - no water - RH: 55% D22 (13/12/2020): The lamp is now 100% and at 28inch form the plants. They received 430 PPFD (33 000 lux). Temperature is under control around 26C with a new oscillating fan place on the floor. This air flow will help against bugs. LST continue every day to expose new leaves. I gave water with only Max Minerals. - temp: 26.5C - water: PH6.4, PPM: 275, approx.: 1,75L per plant - RH: 55% D23 (14/12/2020): LST continue, I try to bend one branch every day and readjust the other ones. I did not see more bugs but some of the new leaves are affected so I know they are still there. I ordered nematodes to help me prevent new larvae. They are suppose to arrive in two days. - temp: 26C - no water - RH: 55% D24 (15/12/2020): I removed leaves at the bottom of the pants last night. Probably 3-4 leaves per plant that were not receiving light. This morning I can see that it gave a good boost on the new leaves! Continuing LST as usual. The nematodes arrived earlier then expected. I will apply them tonight as soon as the lights turn on! - temp: 26C - no water - RH: 54% D25 (16/12/2020): I did a lot today! First, I sprayed another treatment of insecticidal soap on all my plants. Second, I removed one inch of soil in each pot and replaced it with new soil (same soil). I saw sign of what I think is phosphate deficiency. I was really shy on nutrients since beginning of the grow. Third, I fed full recommended dose for week 3 of veg. I gave 1.5L of water with nutrients and approx. 0.5L of tap water when I placed the nematodes. Fourth, I placed one tea pouch of nematodes in each pot as recommended. I also opened 2 tea pouch of nematodes and sprinkled them over the soil of all plants. Finally, I continued LST. It was a big week of up and down. Both plants grew like crazy and I discover an infestation. I think Banana Kush is in pre flower but I'm not sure. It's a bit early but they got so much stressed this week. -temp: 26C -water: PH6.5, PPM: 725 -RH: 55%

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

A planta segue bem parou de crescer na última semana e começou a engordar as flores.

Hey there it’s been really cold lately it’s been hard to keep the humidity and temps at a decent range. A lot of the plants are showing stress from the environment. The pound cake auto is doing pretty well it has gotten a lot larger. This morning I finally saw some small pre flower hairs coming from the main stem. Also the stems in the plant seem to be starting to stench. So 90% sure buy the end of the week the plant will really be showing signs of flowering. Well just saying it’s flowing now. From what I see online this strain takes along time to switch to flower compared to lots of auto flower strains. This would be a perfect strain if you wanted to main line

Hoy aplicaré al sustrato BioGrow de Greenhouse Feeding y BioEnhancer