On day 1 I changed out my reservoir. I lowered my nutes to 650 ppm(25% reduction). I adjusted the PH down to 6.1. My left plant has some burnt tips from either PH shift or over fertilization. My hope is that the lower ppm will help to resolve the issue before it spreads. On day 2 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.3 to 5.9. On day 3 the reservoirs PH is 6.0. I installed my new 200 watt HLG Rspec. I adjusted PPFD readings to 700-1300 PPFD on all tops. On day 4 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.8 to 6.2. On day 5 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 6.4 to 6.0. I diluted my nutrients in my reservoir by removing one gallon of nutrients from the rez and and adding 2 gallons of straight tap water to the rez. This brought the nute concentration from 770 ppm to 540 ppm as the plants will be entering the ripening stage in a few days and they have too much nitrogen judging by the extremely dark green leaves and burnt leaf tips on some branches of the left side plant. The buds seem slightly smaller then my last run which may be due to an excess of nitrogen and maybe not enough light as some of my tops are taller then the others making proper PPFD challenging. All in all the girls are coming along nice and I look forward to the final weeks of flowering 😀 On day 6 I adjusted the reservoirs PH from 5.9 to 6.2. I think I have halted the nute burn as I haven't seen it progressing any more on the leaves. I will continue to monitor closely during these final weeks. The trichome production is increasing with some trichs on top of colas starting to go cloudy. The pistils are turning brown with roughly 40-50% are turning brown all signs I'm getting closer to the harvest window 😆. I dimmed my light to give 600-1000 PPFD to tops. On day 7 I reduced my temps to 75 during the day and 68 at night. I adjusted the PH of the reservoir from 6.6 to 6.1. My reservoirs ppm was too high so I diluted the rez with 2 gal of tap water. This brought it down to 480ppm. The average ppfd to all 14 tops is 604 with no top receiving more than 1000 ppfd

Cultivo de 7 automaticas mix psycho muy buena producción en solo 4 meses.

Hello World 🌎 ☺️ 🤗!!! She sprouted successfully in her Jiffy Pellet.. Added nothing to the H20...Plain Water! After she was about 2cm, I transferred her directly into her final home...which is a 15L Fabric Pot filled with Living Soil...Since she will be growing outdoors.. After the transfer.. Gave her a good feeding of plain H20 but made sure not to drown her though..

4° SEMANA - LAS PLANTAS SIGUEN CON EL MISMO PLAN NUTRICIONAL - NO SE VEN CARENCIAS NI EXCESOS - el hps de 600 MANTIENE MI AMBIENTE SIN MAYORES INCONVENIENTES - LAS PLANTAS PREPARANDO YA SU PROX. PASO A FLORACIÓN - EN ESTA SEMANA Y EN LOS ÚLTIMOS DÍAS DE LA SEMANA SE LE APLICO DEFOLIACIÓN Y PODA DE BAJOS

They are getting bigger and now they’re blooming 🥦💚

She has been Transplanted on November 10th to her new 15l home, she's gonna be such a beautiful amnesia pro plant, love this strain, the shape pf the leafs is just so beautiful.

A lot of rain and wind, continuously. Temps have dropped as well. I’m reading another week or two to chop this plants. Sativa dominant hybrids did the best, the Fastberry and the banana purple punch did not really develop as the other two. In specifics the cbd crack developed sizable buds, and the blue dream as well, the flowers are not as developed tight and dense as in the indoor grow. A bit of fox-tailing nothing too expressive. Minimal work, as per the setup chosen, an no extra nutes this week.

Well I had a few issues with PM this grow again. This showed up in my previous grow and the spores obviously stuck around and decided to effect this grow as well. For my next grow I'll try heat stressing the tent by pacing a heater in the tent and raising the temp to over 32C for an hour or more while closely monitoring it. I believe the seeds sprouted due to the fact that my previous plant hermed on me and I think a few nanners popped in the tent, so there must have been some rogue pollen in there. She grows quite fast and vigorously in Veg so stay active with training if you are performing that on your GoG plant. I fed her slightly light in the last 6 weeks or so in Flower with good response. I would say to keep your EC levels in check if growing with salts in coco. She seemed to react very positively to pinching and bending on the main stalk and really filled out when I did that. Same with topping. Side branching is very good. My particular pheno here had a higher leaf to calyx ratio so trimming was a bit tedious. The high is nice, it's a good hybrid strain. Would def grow again.

We’re in the second week of flowering, and the plants are really starting to stretch! 🌿 They’ve gained good height, especially the one without LST, which has grown tall very quickly. It’s been exciting to watch them reach upward as they prepare for the bud development phase. Everything is looking good overall, and I’m happy with the progress so far. I’m really looking forward to seeing how the buds will start forming in the next few weeks! 😁✨

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Well, this is it. Wish I had bigger buds. Everything was moving in the right direction until the end. I switched the Mars Hydro 3000 out with two HLG 300s, so I could maintain the PAR just under 1000, but perhaps it wasn't enough. G13 is definitely not ready, and could benefit for a couple more weeks, but like a store liquidation, THEY ALL MUST GO NOW All in all, Learned a lot. No seeds, reveg, or signs of mold, so hopefully I'll make up for quantity with quality. Only Dry Time will Tell...

soo little update : the 2 plants on the right side are probably not Jelly Pie #7 but rather Original Clon from Blimburn... there was a mistake when I got the cuttings. On the other hand the 2 plants on the left, I'm totally sure that they are so strong smelling and so pretty

Week 9 (24-3 to 30-3) 24-3 Temps: 19 to 23.5 degrees Humidity: 47% to 69% Watering: 1000 ml. Did some LST and supercropped some branches. Also removed some leaves. 25-3 Temps: 18.9 to 23.7 degrees Humidity: 51% to 68% 26-3 Temps: 19.1 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 50% to 64% Watering: 1000 ml. Timer set to 12/12! 27-3 Temps: 18.5 to 22.9 degrees Humidity: 54% to 69% 28-3 Temps: 18.8 to 23.3 degrees Humidity: 49% to 70% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 1.5 (added CalMag) 29-3 Temps: 19.2 to 22.9 degrees Humidity: 55% to 70% Watering: 1000 ml. EC: 1.5 (added CalMag) 30-3 Temps: 18.6 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 59% to 67% Watering: 1000 ml.

experiment explantation see week1 No1 gelato auto gets each two days normal mixture of plagron sugar royal...alga grow...power buds...calmag...aptus all purpose and since end of this week alga bloom End of this week ppfd increased to 550-580

Harvest and grow was easy just too much going on around her for good yield cant blame the plant nor genetics as she did produce. Not expecting too much here 128 grams... 128... SMH damn fungus gnats

Started flushing the end of week 6 and continued up until day 46 of flower. Allowed plant to dried and was harvested on day 48 of flower. I was initially planning on giving her a few more days but due to a recent volcanic eruption in a nearby caribbean island, ash and other foul weather conditions pose a serious threat to crops so I decided to cut her just before ash and other things happened which would affect quality. Very impressed with strain from start to finish. She definitely didn't have enough support for her colas but I got her a little over 1m2 So I'm expecting at least 450-600g of dried buds. * Video was taken on harvest day. I was making space to put all this plant since I also harvested others recently so they were only hing in direct light for a few minutes before being transferred to their drying room. Harvest weight and more pics to follow by 4/20 Overall she will have a fine mixture of buds. Some have at least 20-25% amber, others only milky and some with a tad bit of clear on the trichome. Should be a delight to smoke and thank you for following my diary this far. Great appreciated and until next week............ #HappyGrowing

-------------------------------------------- ~DUTCH PASSION OUTLAW AMNESIA~ -------------------------------------------- Outlaw Amnesia is a top quality old-school Amnesia Haze dominant Sativa that will appeal to both beginners and connoisseur growers alike. She is 80/20 Sativa/Indica with around 20% THC and is a cross of our Super Haze with a very special clone of Amnesia. The high is powerful and fast with a clear uplifting sativa high and a strong Haze accent. The taste is fresh, sour, strong and old-school Hazy. Outlaw will stretch more than most, she can triple in height during bloom, and grows well with the SCROG method. Although she can be harvested as early as 9 weeks, a full 12 week flower period may be required for best taste, yield and high. She grows well in all grow mediums with perhaps the best yields in hydro where yields of up to 500g/m2 are possible, classifying this as a high production variety. *description credit to Dutch Passion OUTLAW AMNESIA (DUTCH PASSION) FEMINIZED DATA SHEET Breeder: Dutch Passion Genetics: 20% Indica / 80% Sativa Parents: Super Haze x Amnesia Flowering Time: 11-12 weeks THC: 20% Yield (Indoor): 450-500 gr/m² Height (Indoor): 50cm Available as: Feminized seeds Flowering Type: Photo-period Sex: Feminized *Specified by breeder when grown under ideal circumstances -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THE SETUP: ~Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellets that were hydrated with de-chlorinated water with SuperThrive added then ph'd to 6.0 @ 80℉ ~Grown 100% organic in 10g fabric pots with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium amended with 2tbs/g of Down To Earth 4-4-4 / 2 cups/g of Earthworm Castings / 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4, 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Bat Guano, 3/4 cup of Down To Earth Azomite and 1 tsp/g Down To Earth Fish Bone Meal. ~24hr light cycle during Germination / 19/5 light cycle for Vegetation and 12/12 for Flower ~Straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and weekly Compost Tea's. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ WEEKLY UPDATES: 9/27- Week Seven of flower here we go! She's looking good to go with her flowers stacking and her trichome production continuing to coat her flowers! Today she was given 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉ which I gave her half through her drip pan (bottom chuggin), the remainder trough the medium. I also gave her pot a 1/4 turn. 9/29- Yesterday I didn't water her, only turned her pot and checked her over... Wow! She's really ramping up the trichomes making her flowers look like their sugar coated! 🤩 I watered her today with 1.5g of de-chlorinated water with 1 tsp/g of unsulfured molasses added which was then ph'd to 6.4 @ 72℉. The molasses will give the microbial colony some additional food as well as supplying micro-nutrients to the plant. I finished out the daily maintenance giving her a check over and turning her pot 1/4 turn to ensure she gets light to every inch of her. 10/1- Yesterday was a 'no water' day as her pot was still fairly heavy to lift. Today she was watered with her usual of 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉. Her flowering continues to impress me with her trichome production covering her flowers with 'frost' she's a sight for sore eye's! 😍 She's looking to be on track for a 11-12 week finish and will be an epic cultivar when she's done! 10/3- With Week Seven coming to a close we've got 4-5 weeks to go for this lady finish and she's right on track, looking like a Rock Star! 🤩 I watered heavy yesterday and added 1 tsp/g of Unsulfured Molasses to the 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was then ph'd to 6.6 @ 72℉. Her pot had some weight to it when I checked today so I'll skip watering her until tomorrow. I finished up today by checking her over and giving her pot a turn. ~Thanks for stopping in! This epic run will be wrapping up in the coming weeks...Stay lifted and be Blessed! 😎🙏~

Hard to grow in my case, but the results are worth it. Nice trichome production, on the buds as well as on the sugar leaves. I didn't expect much quality with all the problem she had but she turned out beautifully. 227g total from 1 plant tested at 24% THC and <2% CBD 3.02g of kief from the trim

its week 3 of flowering and all 4 plants went trough the early stages very well 💚 two plants are building up frost already, i am pretty sure this will be the ones, i'll keep. i took clones before the light flip, so no need to re-veg those beauties 🌱