Growing strong cut 13clones today and transplanted the two biguns loving how they are turning out

Well the end has come to this beautiful strain What can I say it was fun to grow even considering the early problems I had with the yellowing it turned out amazing The smell and taste are out of this world. Tastes very citrucy and sweet. With a super heavy high. Looking forward to curing this one. Onto the next and big up the followers

Hanging to dry in 55% humidity 18c will report back once dried and cured for awhile 👌 Total 313g and 35g of larf I added to the trim bag. Smells incredible and is now stored in grovebags. Took a total of just over 10days to dry.

Day 14 Veggie Still in propagation tent; the back two rooted nicely, looks like the air stone was pushed back so they got the most benefit. I still need to clean out the veg tent for transplant into hydroton and 2 month grow period. 🎼🎶 I was gonna clean out the grow tent, but then I got high...🎵 JK.... I’m lazy.

Nothing much to report this short week (5 Days) the plant is chopped, check harvest. Values are average of the day. DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20241230 21.9 58.9 20241231 20.9 59.3 20250101 20.0 57.7 20250102 22.0 59.4 20250103 22.6 56.1 DATE - PH 20241230 5.94 20241231 5.94 20250101 5.93 20250102 5.91 20250103 5.89 DATE - ORP (mV) 20241230 56 20241231 46 20250101 27 20250102 2 20250103 -19 DATE - EC(us/cm) 20241230 1644 20241231 1661 20250101 1646 20250102 1719 20250103 1780 DATE - CF 20241230 16.44 20241231 16.61 20250101 16.46 20250102 17.19 20250103 17.79 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20241230 20.8 20241231 20.2 20250101 19.0 20250102 20.2 20250103 21.0

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Weekly update on this amazing strain. Theze lovly ladies really surprised me this week. They're turning out to be some great looking plants. Veg was a little worrisome but I'll take it. All in all Happy Growing

I cannot believe how bushy she is! Very very short internode length. I'm wondering if I have an indica dominant plant? 😭 But anyway, she is doing her thing this week. She only grew 9cm this week. Nutrients this time are 20-20-20 NPK powdered fertiliser I'm trying this time around. About 1.2 grams mixed with 10L of water makes ~1000ppm. My clean water alone is ~350ppm of that. I do have a CO2 bag generator thing... It's not doing a lot though. My CO2 meter reads barely over 400ppm.........

Day 78: This week I only gave them water with regulator, humic-blast and ezymen because they where ready to harvest. Those others from last week where kept inside a dark room for some days before cutting them down. By doing this, your plants will increase making thc. In the middle of this week i also putted some plants inside the dark/drying room to make them ready to harvest. These will also be in the dark for a few days before I harvest them. At the end of this week all other plants are in the dark as well for a couple of days, i will keep them in the grow room because there is no point to move them to the other room lol. Because i put them into the dark for days instead of cutting them down, I can cut them fresh and put them in drying nets instead of putting the full plant upside down on ropes. I will use a cutting machine for this.

Week 5 - 08/27 Seedsman - Critical + 2.0 Blimburn - Apple Fritter All running smoothly, Introduced the exhale C02 bag last week thus far no issues or signs of deficiencies. Light defo - Heavy feed to start the week (Nutes) *Mid-Week Update* Week 1 -Early Flower* 08/30 Both have grown significantly since last update, Flowering has begun. Introduced Raw NPK (Potash/Phosphorus) *End of week recap* 09/02 39-40 inches in height Week 1 of flower went smoothly Introduced Raw NPK Phosphorus and Potassium

Straw electric lemonade has an amazing smell already. It’s growing a lot like some Barney’s plants I grew last year.

week 5...Turn on a portable air conditioner, add a co2 bag to under the light because use heat to melt the gas inside. Co2 weighs more than air, it will be fall down below. {Activities} (Day 29) Use the nutrients. (Day 30) Turn on a portable air conditioner (Day 31) watered 3 lites per a plant (Day 32) n/a (Day 33) Add a co2 bag by Lung Khong (uncle Khong) made in Thailand and watered (Day 34) n/a (Day 35) Watered (Hope you like and enjoy my diary) Thank you so much for checking out my grows. Feel free to leave a comment, push the like or give the follow.

Day 91 - Still going. Harvested a little bit already as shown in video.

she is doing really well. we are at the beginning of week 5. she is currently getting a lot of rain. but also enough sun and daylight. you can clearly see that she is preparing for the flowering phase. i have not used any growing techniques on her. just sunlight and fertiliser.

this first week just to put her into hybrid aero+RDWC devices / watering with 15S on and 3 mins off she looks excited for her new home!!

needded some iron and calmegg revive did a great jobb tiramisu is a big eaterrrrof microo nutess

Hey everyone 🙂. Flowering day 1 Today the time was changed to 12/12 hours. Actually, I only count the flowering days from the correct flowering, for the sake of simplicity I will count the days from the position :-). Flowering day 2 Today both were poured with 1 L each and checked for their health. Flowering day 3 Today the humidifier was filled and both plants were sprayed with Canna Cure. They were also checked for their health as they did every day. Flowering day 4 Today the whole tent was cleaned. Flowering day 5 The humidifier was filled again and the plants were sprayed. Flowering day 6 Today both were poured with 0.6 L and checked for health. Flowering day 7 End of the week 😄. Both were checked for health. I hope you have a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻🌿 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Day 78 F22: Watering/Defoliation/Tucking GSC 1.5 Gallons of water pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.4 NL 1.5 Gallons of water pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.4 Notes: I watered first thing when lights were on. Afterwards, I did a pretty big defoliation, getting rid of approximately 85%+ of the fan leaves. After this, I re-positioned a lot of the bud sites. There were a couple that were pretty woody and I could not move without inadvertently super-cropping. I didn't feel it was necessary though as the canopy is almost completely even now. Also, going to start adding a small dose of cal-mag to every feeding now, and feeding base NPK at 3/4 strength instead of the 1/2 strength. We'll see how they do. Day 79 F23: Nothing new Notes: Plants are recovering from major defoliation very nicely. New dehumidifier will be here tomorrow. RH has been steadily around 54% with the shitty dehumidifier running almost constantly. To anyone reading this, I cannot emphasize how useless those little ones from Amazon are, don't buy em. Day 80 F24: Nothing new Notes: New dehumidifier came. Required a bit of reorganizing my space. I obviously can't put it in the tent, so it has to sit outside and dehumidify the whole room. It will take some time to adjust, considering the humidity I'm worried about it beneath the canopy of the plants, but I will let it run and see how good it work. I adjusted my inkbird down to 45% RH and will probably adjust down to 40% in a month. Day 81 F25: Feeding GSC 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Armor Si 2.25 tsp/gal Big Bloom 1.5 tsp/gal Grow Big 1.5 tsp/gal Tiger Bloom 1.0 tsp/gal Cal-Mag Plus 0.5 tsp/gal Kelp Me Kelp You pH 6.5 NL 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Armor Si 2.25 tsp/gal Big Bloom 1.5 tsp/gal Grow Big 1.5 tsp/gal Tiger Bloom 1.0 tsp/gal Cal-Mag Plus 0.5 tsp/gal Kelp Me Kelp You pH 6.5 Notes: Had to break open the bottom of pH Up for the first time. After everything was mixed, it came in at 6.4 pH. I could've easily used that, but decided to try out the pH Up. You have to use significantly more to get the pH to move when compared to the pH Down. Added half a tsp to the mix to get it to move a tenth. With pH down, that would've dropped it probably a whole point. Day 82 F26: Nothing new Notes: Just patiently waiting for flowers to beef up and making sure temperature and RH are on point as well as monitoring the plant for signs of distress. Day 83 F27: Nothing new Notes: Didn't notice anything new, but was really tired this night and went to sleep early. Day 84 F28: Watering GSC 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Great White Micorrhizae pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.6 NL 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Great White Micorrhizae pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.7 Notes: Watered today, but noticed an issue on the NL. Lots of leaves showing necrotic spots which look like a calcium issue. pH has been pretty on point the whole grow, and I just started feeding more cal-mag, so I'm not sure what the issue is.