Giorno 4 defogliazione e LST

with this I start my first grow in 2021 and based on the success of gorilla glue from fastbud, I have chosen to start the year with a team auto flower. And the choice has fallen on gorilla glue 4 pcs. Wedding cake 3 pcs and 3 pcs glueberry, with a plan to have them ready in mid-March. so the tent is free to start the outdoor projects up in the beginning of April in the tent, so they are ready when the heat has entered the ground :) the growmediet consists of 40% peat from the last grow (cocos choir with root system) 40% compost from own garden, 10% Bio Bizz Premix, 4% perlite and 6% Vermiculite. (the peat already contained a little perlite / vermiculite) I have deliberately chosen to add compost that was between 80 and 100% composted, as I think it will contribute CO2 together with the coco peat and so far it looks like my thesis seems to hold water and I expect to be able to wait to add more CO2 to the flowering period. (Co2 is currently high around 1200 ppm and I ventilate regularly during the day as Co2 rises during the day) the temperature is around 23-25 ​​degrees during the day and between 20 and 21 degrees at night. I have chosen to set the light to 19/5 and raise it enough to 20/4 when the sprouts have come up. I reckon that will try to make some LST on the GGs and probably also on the 2 new varieties. The light only in this phase only at 50%, as there is no reason to run full exhaust, as long as I can keep the temp. in the tent and the sprouts have not come up yet. update 04-01. so far 5 out of 10 have come up, 5 days after they were sown and I am preparing to sow tomorrow, if no more have come up. it surprises me that no more GGs have come up, in the last grow, they were the fastest to germinate and there was 100% germination, but as I said I choose to take one more day and see if it does not make a difference .😀 if anyone should wonder. then of course I do not give them fertilizer until at the earliest after 14-16 days update 05-01 I have today, sown 1 gorilla glue and 2 glueberry, where the others did not come up, so the goal is still 4 GG, 3GB and 3 WC for this grow😀

Start of week 5 day 29. Well not.much to say but the LIT farm sensations are at it again. Looking very impressive at this stage, if I do say so myself. 😀

And the winner is….. Divine Kush! To say the least, she fought the most and she really shined through. If you see the video above 👆 you can see how wowed we are by her, not only because she sprouted her own seed within herself but also because it shows how much moisture she had to deal with and she sort of found an interesting way to disperse of it! We did try to plant her seedling but unfortunately it did not survive but we are still in awe of it happening before our eyes. Nature is amazing and Our Kushy girl is very much appreciated, she has taught us quite a bit this year. WOW 🤩💚✌️ Plz note, we totally forgot to weigh her.

👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

I had some problems with the plants, first of all serious shortage problems because I had not realized that they needed so much fertilizer at practically every watering. Now they seem fine, on day 21 of flowering I plan the last massive defoliation and lollipopping. I didn't even think they would stay so low and having folded them too soon proved to be difficult in the future for ordinary maintenance. Experience for the next time!

Removed adjustable rope hangers from light. Stretch should be winding down.

Letzten Woche(n) Keine Nähstoffe mehr per Flüssigkeit.

Pure smell GG with a light citrus note. In the background you can guess chemdog diesel but only tender. I'm looking forward to it after a month of Curing.

Day 29! Will slowly start incorporating some nutes or maybe on week 6 Day 30! And day 28’s The leaves are getting really sticky .... -There’s little light burn on a few leaves due to turning up my wattage on my grow lights way to high. 🤦‍♂️🏼dimmed my lights and all good now.🌱🌱🌱☺️ Day 31! Started to do lst all of them with a simple technique. Just a piece of tape... Day 32! Not much to say other than they are loving life Day33! Improved the lst by giving the bottom of the stem some support. I also added my first video 🌱🌱🌱 this strain it’s average height is 3 ~feet Day 34! The low stress training has made them so happy and grow faster. The other 2 are at day 32 Day 35! She is fkn awesome with her two young’s

Get high just by smelling them😵‍💫😶‍🌫️

Jealousy 🤣 we are finally done. She was chop on day 68 with a heavy yield Fire ball 🤩🔥🔥🔥💯 Oh damn this strain can grow fast in flower, It Will give you big monster heavy hard green nuggets Like a improve gelato 🤯 Smells of citrus fruity with a hint of gas But it's way more then that ahahah We dried for 7 days full plant upside down. And now today we are at 15 days cure. And its time to smoke and do a report

TUESDAY 9/3: She's slow, but steadily putting on the pistils. Looks happy...👍 WEDNESDAY: I fed her about a half-gallon of water with bembe, big bloom, tiger bloom, beastie bloomz, armor si, and terpinator. I was at the site for several hours today, so I was able to move her into direct sunshine for an extra couple hours.😎 THURSDAY, FRIDAY, SATURDAY, SUNDAY: I was sick as a dog . 2-day stomach virus, followed by an acute pancreatitis attack... 😷 MONDAY: I gave her about a half-gallon of aquarium water with some bembe, beastie bloomz, and tiger bloom. I ordered a little grow light that should arrive tomorrow. It just pulls 210w at the wall, but is 3500k with a lot of extra 660nm diodes and gets pretty good PPFD numbers. I'm gonna finish her in my closet as close to that new light as I can..along with maybe 2 of my shortest stealthy outdoor hybrid girls...maybe increasing the PAR a bunch will hurry them the f!#$k up..

-Cotton Pad method - before putting them into cotton pads soak seeds in bottled drinking water - !!! DO NOT SOAK THE PADS !!! - just give them a few gentle sprays with a mist sprayer then put 2 seeds in 2 cotton pads like a sandwich and spray that sandwich again. - put cotton pad Sandwich in baggie with little opening for air circulation and spray into baggie one Last time - everything together in an dark medium warm spot and wait for about 24-48 hrs

Day 1 Mon PH 5.8 EC 0.5 PPM 260 DLI 19h PPFD Water 22 Day 2 Tue PH 5.9 EC 0.5 PPM 270 DLI 19h PPFD Water 22 Day 5 Fri PH 5.7 EC 0.5 PPM 270 DLI 19h PPFD Water 22

week 4 plants look nice slight nitrogen def pumped up the dosage on the nutes

27.5.25: I watered with 5ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 I added Per 6.5 litres; ♡ 1Tsp Bud Explosion ♡ 7ml Trace PH: 6.3 PPM: 990 SOLUTION TEMP: 30°C SOIL PH: 7 SOIL TEMP: 21°C AMBIENT TEMPERATURE: 23-26°C RELATIVE HUMIDITY: 58%. 27.5.25: She has taken very well to all the emergency repairs and, for the first time, started lifting her leaves to the sky. I missed out one day of watering, as I did not believe i would need to water the dafter having fed 5 litres the day before. I watered with 3 ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4 I added Per 6.5 litres; ♡ 1/2 Tsp Ecothrive Biosys ♡ 7ml Trace PH: 6.4 PPM: 590 SOLUTION TEMP: 28°C SOIL PH: 7 SOIL TEMP: 21°C AMBIENT TEMPERATURE: 23-26°C RELATIVE HUMIDITY: 58%. 28.5.25: I watered with 2.5ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 I added Per 6.5 litres; ♡ 1Tsp Bud Explosion ♡ 7ml Trace PH: 6.3 PPM: 990 SOLUTION TEMP: 30°C Still PH: 7 SOIL TEMP: 21°C AMBIENT TEMPERATURE: 23-26°C RELATIVE HUMIDITY: 58%. 29.5.25: The plant is drinking constantly now. This one was planted in coco, perlite, and worm castings. Due to this being practically the first time I've used this mix without adding the peat based "light mix," I had not realised how quickly the pots will dry out, especially during the high water consumption of the flowering stage. I realise that I need to be treating it as pure coco. This can be fantastic, for example, if you have just one pot/plant and can provide all the waterings and monitoring continually and regularly. This tends to make you use more nutrients than necessary, as personally I find it difficult to use just plain water. I think many of us still can't help the feeling that we should be adding things to every watering. Therefore, when the frequency of the waterings increases, we are still adding nutrients EVERY time. Which is an overall increase in nutrients, too. For my part, I'm cutting the amount of nutrients per watering. I feel like nutrients are a bit of a crutch to growers. I'm still getting used to the coco and the waterings, but I am really enjoying it. If you don't check your plants multiple times a day, it may not be the best choice of substrate. For me, I'd much rather the pots dry quickly because it reduces the chances of mould and mildew, which I'm always concerned about. The pot was actually top dressed with Canna Terra Soil Mix, as the company I'd purchased from sent the wrong item, and I couldn't get it sorted in time. This has really annoyed me as my top dress went mouldy, and I had to remove the top 1cm. After I used this, that soil became compacted and has remained that way since. Due to this, I would much rather not use these types of substrates. 28.5.25: Watered 1.5ltrs with Trace PH 6.4. 29.5.25: I took everything off the timer and am now running 24/0 light schedule. I want to make the most out of what light is available. The plants need it. My tent is underpowered in that department, so increasing the duration of the light is all I can realistically do. Hopefully, it will help. Watered with the same nutrients as above, 6.5L. PH 6.1. 30.5.25: Watered again, plain water with Ecothrive Biosys 4L. PH 6.3 Tganks fir stopping by and hanging out 😊💚✌️🍃😃

Came out very nice. Lot of wet weight. Smells like fresh spragues of mint.

7th week, the girls are doing well, nothing special to report. Patience and vigilance are key going forward. They're not smelling too much at the moment. My Instagram is simple; I try my best to respect the guidelines to share my results with you. I'm thinking of doing a 12/12 light cycle for feminized plants.