Can't wait to start curing about 10-15 days for drying

Termino de la segunda semana de floración y las niñas no pierden el tiempo. La malla scrog ya fue situada y esta siendo acomodada de a poco para obtener la mejor producción y como si fuera poco, las niñas tienen un muy buen color y se están adaptando bien tanto a la malla como a los nuevos fertilizantes. Seguimos manteniendo la dosis de fertilizantes tanto en la gelato auto como en las sublimator y amnesia molotov y una vez se terminen de mostrar las flores, agregaremos un aditivo para adicional (a las feminizadas) para que potencien su volumen y sabor, que en este caso será PK Booster de BAC

The buds are still bulking a little more as of day 64. The trichomes are pretty milky/frosty so the harvest is getting close, but I am not going to rush it if the plant is healthy and the buds are not suffering. My best estimate right now would be between day 68 and 78 for harvest. Day 67: areas of amber colored trichomes are appearing on the calyxes, under 10 percent of total. this is what I have been watching for to indicate harvest time so I will be giving water from here out and begin cutting down the plant in a few days. Thanks for reading!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending slowly over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has high pH,it's not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During daytime, the light is sensed multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore at night IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light release from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis and water is found to be in its icosahedron molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

I actually stop feed with fertilizer there root bound need to go into ground I feel like im surrounded by enemy of cannabis.. I AM 1 BAD ASS GROWER

First time growing in a long while. I set up a custom grow tent with some wood and mylar sheets. I'm using an old Rodeadro lamp for now but expecting the new Mars Hydro sometimes soon. Really doing this for the experience with no great expectations and hopeful for a fair amount of weed in the end.

Day 3: 2358 grams net weight

Hey there, The clones rooted very good. So i gave them a bigger pot. Also the mainlined O.GKush went to a bigger pot. The clones from to 1L airpot O.GKush from 4L to 38L airpot This week i added a little of the nutrient Result-c is showed last week. This one is supposed to make your plant stronger and also makes the blooming up to one week faster. So we will see Only thing bothering me is the one in the back falling a bit behind but hey not every grow can be perfect right. So im very happy the clones made it. They are growing together with the clones in a small 60x60 tent also under a cree 55 watt cob light. Now looking for some growth in the og.Kush so i can put her outside and let the clones take the space they need. Will be continued

Week 3. This is where the fun begins. The smell is amazing. The stretch is crazy and the stems are stiff like bamboo. There's no loss in terps. They're actually getting a lot stronger!!

And Another one, underestimated the stretch on the Mintz she can’t complain she ain’t getting light lol.

I started the GSC seeds from HSC by soaking in a glass of water overnight then planted in coco coir under a humidity dome in my veg tent. I will plant them in flower box in a couple weeks when they can handle the feed that my BB clone is on right now. On day 5 my 2 other Gsc seeds rotted perhaps too wet but I have one good remaining for this run. I started White widow seeds and will run 2 phenos. Gsc is looking good so far.

Last week transplanted the plants to their final containers. Approx 12L and 17L fabric pots. Did my best to transplant without disturbing the roots, by first placing the small container in the new container to make an hole in the dirt. And then cutting apart the small container instead of pulling out the plant. Then just fitting the root-ball into the already made hole. Root development looked pretty good when I did the transplant. Transplanted into a rather well-fertilized soil. Don't plan on fertilizing these plants during the whole grow unless I otherwise see a reason to. Also started LST last week, bending the plants somewhat extreme, but they're taking it just fine. Water here is rather alkaline, so I'm starting to control the PH of the water now. There's a clear skunk smell that started last week as well, but only when the tent has been opened. Still, it doesn't take much time to notice if you stick your head in the tent. And this is already starting in Week 2 of veg! So the charcoal filter is set up. Pretty happy with the development so far, although I've still been seeing some thrips. If they're not completely gone by next week, might end up mixing some of the spinosad into the water so the plants absorb it. Day 16 - Cut off one of the lower fan leaves on both plants. It was blocking the other nodes from receiving much light. I am already able to start noticing mandarin/tangerine undertones in the smell when I've handled the plants.

🍮 🤤 ❤️ 🍮 🤤 ❤️ 🍮 🤤 ❤️ 🍮 🤤 ❤️ 🍮 🤤 ❤️ DAY 83 Chop chop, wiiiiiiiiiiii!! 🍮 🤤 ❤️ Can't believe it's over! 😭 🌱 🙏 Grower love!!! _________________________________________________________________________ https://hypnoseeds.com/product/cream-brulee-auto/ Cream Brulee Auto Description We love our Cream Brulee and wanted to create an even more special variety so everyone could harvest it faster. Introducing Cream Brulee Auto! After a meticulous process of crossing our exemplary variety with our autoflowering genetics of the highest quality; it is ready to shine and captivate all grow spaces. Equally to lovely feminized Indica-leaning sister, Cream Brulee Auto will take over your heart. You’ll want to keep it in constant rotation. In just about 8 weeks it goes from being a seed to a bountiful harvest of sweet and creamy cannabis from the irresistible dessert we know and love. Appearance and Grow Tips While Cream Brulee Auto has the same quality and potency as its feminized cannabis predecessor, what stands out is its speed to finish and enormous dense colas. These magical cannabis seeds take around 8 weeks from seed to harvest and can produce up to 500 grams (per plant) of pure happiness. Indica lovers won’t be able to look away, their growth speed will put anyone in a trance! Make sure to provide this variety with at least 18 hours of light throughout the entire grow and decent pot size, around 3 gallons minimum, so it can grow to its full potential. Due to its ultra-fast autoflowering genetics, we recommend planting the previously germinated seed directly into the final pot to avoid stressing or damaging the roots. LST is always a good idea to increase performance and control any height problems you want to avoid. Administer nutrients at 1⁄4 of the recommended dose and then gradually increased as the plant grows and reacts. With optimal conditions and treatment, this strain will bless you with beautiful buds of up to 19% THC. Flavor and aroma Thanks to its special lineage, Cream Brulee Auto is absolutely packed with the same delicious flavors and aromas. Its autoflowering magic makes it even easier and quicker to grab your delicious dessert cannabis buds. Notes of cream, caramel, together with vanilla, buttered nuts, and coffee will leave stunned even the most experimental cannabis connoisseur. Effects After the first delicious puff, you will be in a dream state, deeply relaxed and pleasantly euphoric. Its calming effect makes it better to consume it at night to help you sleep. Similarly, during the day if you are looking for a half-conscious state Cream Brulee Auto will keep you upbeat and happy. 😍 ________________________________________________________________________________ SETUP: ° Mars Hydro TS1000 Version 2022 https://www.mars-hydro.com/all-products/ts-1000-led-grow-light Thanks @coco!! ❤️ ° Zelsius 60x60 cm (2x2ft) ° 2x 5W Fans ° PrimaKlima EC 125 400/240cm³/h exhaust fan & Carbon Active Granulate 240cm³/h ° Biobizz Grow + Bloom ° tap water EC 0,26uS upgraded to EC 0,5 with PlantMagic MagneCal - pH 8, nutrient solution downgraded to pH 6,5 with Advanced Hydroponics Minus Bloom ° BioEnhancer every 2 weeks instead of feeding ° from week 4 in the same container Aptus Enzym+ once a week ° Organic tomato soil + perlite 🍮

We are officially in full bloom. The have been enjoying 6-7 hours of sun light per day for about 4 days now, then brought back in under the cobs. The girls are all exploding with growth and stacking what I expect to be huge buds.

Duckies are blowing up again. They look a bit rough, that's alright to be expected from 3 weeks with no water change or nutes. First full week of nutes, with add back calmag, getting the ladies to flex.

I have never treated my girls as poorly as I did during this session... and yet the result amazes me! in 12 weeks, despite all the mistakes i made, they gave me 121g dry; nice! 🎁

Visual//. underwatering a bit - since flowering could of raised it a bit - I am still feeding only 3 gal only for ALL eight and a half basically small plants _ genetics looking superb still and health is booming still!! Casually been trimming couple smaller leafs on bottoms that form- very reserved trimming though - also Low stress tugging them every night to help lower branches into nicer isolated grow areas - babying them during these phases, watching for pests