Looking For a Keeper cream of the crop seeds purple paralysis 10th March 2021 So Far So Good for these two , it hasn't rained again since the last downpour but the clouds hanging around this afternoon look very ominous indeed. 😐 I only water early morning now so that the soil is fairly dry again on top by the time the sun sets in the evening. this is to limit the extra moisture that could hinder the plants resistance to mold . I also gave them a good old feed of my Worm castings tea mixed with Mollasses & Seaweed mix. 💪💪 Cheers for stopping by 👍

Been a couple weeks since I updated this one. I. Early flower one of them is a monster at 42 inches from the dirt. They are a little behind the pack but it should start getting interesting soon

Another straightforward week in the grow room. All three Phenos continue to look fine with good leaf color. I've been working on this super soil recipe for three grows now. I learn a little more with each attempt and come to find this particular blend in larger 7 gallon grow bags IMHO is passing the eye test. All three are in stretch, so I'll continue to keep an eye out over the next 2-3 weeks. In the 3x3, I have manage height. No additional feedings just watered ph'd between 5.8 and 6.2. I do water at top as well as bottom (wicking). These girls are already beginning to exhibit a loud smell. Just bought a new carbon filter, which I will swap out today. This closes out the week. Thanks for stopping by.

Weekly up date on these gorgeous ladies. They are stacked and swelling amazing going through the flower stage. I really couldn't be happier with how these have grown as it's an easy one not being to temperamental. I've kept the ppm/ec around the same between 900-1100ppms. Still feeding 16oz daily and all in all Happy Growing.

Vegi Tag 23/35 vor letzter Rasur danach erst wieder in der Blüte 3te Woche... Dank des tollen Wetters gab es H2O Temperaturen von 26 Grad zwar nur kurz aber ansonsten war ich auch bei 22-24 Grad hoffe der Sommer ist jetzt durch... Zur Sicherheit läuft die Sauerstoffpumpe Voll und es gab jeden Tag eine ordentliche Dosis H2O2 Wurzeln sehen OK aus auch wenn der weiße Schein raus ist Wurzel und wachsen sie feucht fröhlich Vegi Tag 24 Tank Wechsel um die in den letzten Tagen zu warme NL auszutauschen besser 1x mehr als 1x zu wenig dran wären sie erst in 4 Tagen .... Vegi Tag 27 läuft alles soweit bis auf leichten Mg Mangel an der Papaya und leichter Kalium Mangel an der SLH der angepasst wurde d.h. 1g mehr Mg Salz und AH1 um 0,25ml/l Wobei es echt leichte Mängel sind die unrelevant sind da sie bald eh erhöht werden ...vorsorgebist aber besser als Nachsorge...

Watering: 06/29 - 1l with 0.5 ml bacteria/mycorrhizae each 07/03 - 1l with 0.5 ml bacteria/mycorrhizae + 1g enmiflora each

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Started my flush now (tomorrow morning actually). I keep a small dose of K30 going for the first week of flush.

Week 23 - 29 July 25 July - feed day 27 July feed day ( bloombastic only)

The ICE is almost done; the NL doesn’t even seem close. Interesting since ICE sprouted a day later than the NL.

Really liking this strain so far...always happy with weedseedsexpress

Allright guys & gals, In my Quest to mastering the art of growing my own bud I've reached the classic, overfeeding point but i've decided to just dile it down a gear and keep at it...I'm amazed with the Northern Lights blooming, it looks way readier then the Diesel Haze, eventhough it was planted 2 full weeks after. the budsare smaller still, but fostier and just looking riper....I have noticed the bigger leaves getting some nasty nuteburn (or at least I guess thats what it is) . I will definately go super easy on the nutes next grow. ....Trust the process.... Update... The NL is suffering quite a bit... Update... Giving just water the next times to see if they recover... Pistils becoming brown now and smell slowly getting stronger...

Here I am again, I've been neglected this diary for 3 weeks so I made a fast update on the last 3 weeks, not so detailed unfortunately. Today is day 58, some leaves are yellowing and I don't understand what it could be. It seems a Phosphorus deficiency but there are also this strange rusty spots on some leaves on top of the plant. From what I know in case of deficiencies the first leaves to suffer should be the ones in the bottom part of the plant but I don't know. I upped the calmag a little because the rust spots could indicate calmag deficiency. Learning something new everyday with this hobby, I just hope I manage to stop the problem because in my previous grow I had a similar problem and didn't managed to stop it so in harvest time all the leaves were basically dead. Anothe detail I'm not happy about is the not so even canopy I created. I think I started LST a little too soon and therefore deformed a little too much the plant. Next time I'll try to top for the first time. Other than the problem I mentioned the buds are stacking up really really nice and they smell amazing. Real frosty buds it seems as you can see from the video. I hope I'm doing good :D

the two BPP R3 in soil went into bloom. the dwc are starting to enter bloom slowly as well 36-42 The veg and seedling cycle on the three gallon pot was short and it's gone into bloom with very little stretching. All of the plants look healthy, they look fine, no nutrient. Or PH issues

Yo Farmers, in the plant's 11th week, I had to take some drastic measures to keep her healthy and thriving. First off, I did some major defoliation by plucking a ton of her fan leaves from the lower and middle sections. That way, she could get better airflow and light penetration. It's still not perfect, but we tried. Then, I had to apply some high stress training since the plant was stretching like crazy. It was like she was trying to reach the moon or something. Anyway, during my inspection, I noticed some damage on the leaves close to the light. It could have been from light burn, Calmag issues, or a phosphorus deficiency. To fix it, I adjusted the distance of the light and fed her a high PK nutrient solution to boost her phosphorus levels and nutrient uptake. Gotta keep the girl fed, right? All in all, it was a lot of work, but it was worth it. The plant's still growing strong and looking better than ever.

We are watching trichomes every day and it looks like it is almost ready so we are thinking of harvesting next week. It is already possible to see some amber trichomes. Unfortunately it seems that we are not going to harvest the expected amount, the buds were not very dense and fat, apparently the buds are just small leaves with trichomes.

Agora é so aguardar os tricomas ficarem mais um pouco âmbar e partir para colheita. Falta pouco , mas o perigo do mofo esta cada vez maior pois os botões estão densos ena umidade é mais que 65 por cento.