21/11/2022 - Diamo inizio al primo giorno di vegetativa, ancora niente acqua, temperatura e umidità costanti intorno ai 25° e 70% umidità. Probabilmente domani alzero appena il dimmer della lampada visto che qualche piantina sta un pò strecciando. 22/11/2022 - Ancora niente acqua, aumentato il dimmer della lampada al 30% 23/11/2022 - Prima irrigazione, data circa 350ml per vaso con soluzione di acqua osmotica e 4ml/l di Biobizz Root-Juice 26/11/2022 - Irrigato per la seconda volta, stesse quantità e soluzione della volta precedente 27/11/2022 - Ho notato che le piante vicino alla coperta riscaldante stanno crescendo un pò più velocemente delle loro controparti nel lato opposto, per cercare di bilanciare ho cambiato di posizione le piante più vicine alla coperta riscaldante con quelle verso la porta del box, lasciando quelle centrali invariate,

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

I would like to reveg, for next round or just pop new. I have plans to make an ultimate strain. I want to chop in 7 days but I made some seeds. Xmas try would be nice after 14 day dry. everything is precalculated pushing to finish faster

07.09.23- 63 день жизни северного сияния в горшке 3 литра . Всего пару дней и будет харвест . Сейчас получает только чистую воду Веерные листья срезаны

Both plants have almost stopped growing in heigth now and are in full flowering mode now. Barbarian (=AK-47 x Barbara Bud) Plant #1 is 15 cm shorter than plant #2, but a little bushier. Both have grown very well and are strong and healthy. They get more and more flower clusters now and start to fill up all branches. Trichomes start to appear all over...the plants start to get sticky and develop a weak sweet aroma now. Its time to take off the biggest fan leaves now for defoliation, I took a round of pics before and after.

20/11 Ce petit se développe super vite, irrigation a l'eau uniquement tous les 2/3jours. Bientôt transplantation pots 6L pour plus de développement. Reste sur le réseau growers. 26/11 repiquer dans un pots de 6L dans du ATAMI - Janeco-Light Mix qui es super pour développer davantage de racine . Arrosage a l'eau ph 6,5.

Ha un odore di ananas che non potete immaginare

Update week 2 veg👽

This is a clone of the Rail Gun. She is in a 2ftx2ftx4ft tent under a 300W Viparspectra LED

All good;)))))

罐子里是之前最顶端的芽，被我烤焦了……

7/1 Day 92 from sprout, day 37 of flower. Worth mentioning I started counting day 1 of flower from the day I switched the lights to 12/12. I guess some people count days of flower differently than that, but that’s mine. Buds have been packing on the frost over the past few days and slowly getting fatter. I know I won’t be getting any massive buds just because I topped multiple times and have a good amount of lower bud sites growing but that’s perfectly fine with me. Generally it looks like I’ll be getting golf ball sized buds all around. I also noticed I had 1 top bud site that was getting a lot more light than the others. Well I happen to be able to move that bar around away from that bud site in order to better disperse the light and even out the PAR map a bit. So I slid that over which allowed me to safely stay under 1000 PAR at that top while increasing my light up to 75%. This should result in more light for the lower parts while staying essentially the same up top. 7/5 Day 96 from sprout, day 41 of flower. I gave the light a small nudge past 75% yesterday and I haven’t seen any light stress yet. I’ll keep nudging it higher until I see something, but I gotta be near the limit. Most of my top sites are sitting around 900 PAR, but I have two sites that spike up to around 1050 PAR. I do have two CO2 bags resting on top of my light but it’s impossible to know how much that helps, if at all. Growth has been great though; buds remain frosty and are slowly getting bigger still. The top half of the buds will be of respectable size, no monsters but good solid bud. I’ll still have some larf way down in the lower half though, an unfortunate consequence of the insane stretch and being unsure how much to hack off in that scenario. I debated trimming them all off now but I’m thinking at this point in flower I should just leave her alone and grow. 7/6 It’s possible I found my upper limit on light intensity. I started to see some faint yellow areas appear on some leaves and there’s an increase of dry crispy leaf tips. So at least for this grow I think I’ve established that 75% power is the max I can do. For now I’ve backed off the lights to the last hash mark before 75%, which has most tops sitting at around 750 PAR and a few others at 850 PAR for a max DLI of 36.7. I’ll probably go back up to 75% next week.

Super easy to grow

Hey guys, Looks like we have an early chop on the puur organics side. Not sure if I did anything different but this is a bit ahead of the Bonnie Clyde autopot plant. Same reservoir as last week so she’s drinking a lot less. Time to start getting her ready for ripening. Purr organics fed has been flushed the past two watering days about 3 days apart. Going to chop her this weekend after she gets a day of darkness. Vpd - 1.3 Ppfd - 800

i accidently bought some unbuffered coco and mixed it with my ussual earth, had major calmag problems in mid-flower but i´m still pleased with the results...also had a little trouble with mold at the end due to bad weather and high humidity in the final weeks of the grow, had to remove a few buds and harvest early @ day 55 of flower....but there's still alot of great looking buds left for me to enjoy and all look mostly done... Just harvested and hung them upside down, currently drying them at constant 19.5-20.5°C and 50-60% RH..will update as soon as they are dry

SO here we have Week 8 of flowering. Last watering i just gave plain water but i think it was too early for the OG, they still will take 2 weeks or more, prob giving them nutes next watering. Critical is nearly to harvest. Gorilla prob gonna take 1 more week