Getting close. It’s extremely sticky snd smells divine.

Una vez pasados los dias huele bién, sabe bién y buen efecto. Matices y aromas Terrosos , café y a cítricos. Fácil de cultivar.

The 84. I just put her in the dark and she began her flashing today. Her colors are coming in nicely she is very frosty. I’m very happy with the way she has turned out. And the next week she will be cut down. This is the second strawberry nuggets that I have grown out this one turned out much better than the first one which was a surprise. I have much more finishing up this time than I thought I would. Everybody kind of seem to came together at the same time. Super excited to have her trimmed up in the smoke her.

Hmm nothing eks is a pretty little girl;)

👋I am happy of the growth of my 4 seedlings, I can't wait to see the buds appear. I continue to do defoliation, I make cuts in different places on each plant, I experiment ✂️ 🌱Genetics of this limited edition : Hawaiian Snow x Wedding Cake x Gelato 33 🌗Switching to flowering this week, I reduced the length of the day by 1 hour each day until reaching 12 hours night time / 12 hours daylight on the 33rd day!🌞 🌺On the 33rd day I apply a layer of organic nutrients mixed with a little soil that I add to the top of each pot. I added 35 grams of BioBloom to each of my pots🌺 ------------------------------------------------------------ 💧Watering I water all my pots the same day but with more or less water. Simply by lifting them; A light pot is a dry pot and will need more water, A heavy pot is a wet pot and will need less water. On average I water each pot with: Day 29 : 0.5 L Day 33 : 1 L with 0.8 grams of bio enhancer/L I use tap water, adjust the ph to around 6 and water ------------------------------------------------------------ 🔥❄️Temperature of the week : Day : 19-23°C (Humidity : 65-80%) Night : 14-17°C (Humidity : 75-85%) Outside the tent it is around 16°C with 70% humidity The humidity is a little too high, I hope it will drop a little 🙏 ------------------------------------------------------------ 🚀Equipment of the week ⭐️ : Light FC3000 Mars hydro. power 95% at 50cm Extractor 6 inch Mars Hydro. power 1/10. ON 24/24h 2 fans to circulate the air inside the tent. Each on for 30 minutes then off for 1 hour. this rhythm repeats itself in a loop I'm removing my heat mat this week. ------------------------------------------------------------ 📜Links : USA x Landrace LE Seeds : 👇 (Seeds of this Limited Edition is in restocking) https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/feminised-cannabis-seeds/usa-and-landrace-limited-edition/ Mars Hydro : 5% off with my discount code "houstone5" 💪 https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone 👨‍🚀My Instagram❤️️: https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/ ------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks for your visit😀💚

08/01/2020 Lots of pistils popping out on her, no stretching yet but that will come soon! I will measure her in the morning to see how much stretching occurs by harvest time 70ish days I am told.

This is the start of my second grow and also second Northern Light Auto from RQS, the goal is to hit #1 in g/plant for that Strain. I didn't take as many notes as in the last grow but there are timelapses, some photos and metrics from probes. Started with 3 Seeds and then picked the 2 strongest. The System is a NFT System but due to the size of the tube and root growths the solution with submerge the roots ~70% later on. To combat that I use 3 small 1.5w air pumps, these are super silent, if one dies I got 2 more running and to be honest air pumps used in DWC systems are often oversized and rely on Broscience. In my Salad/Herb NFT Systems I don't use any air pumps and the plants are just fine and grow great. This time I added sprinklers to humidify the air inside the tube, slightly moisturize the Rockwool and speed up root growths. Spoiler: Was a great success :) The ratios for the fertilizers are not accurate in the following weeks, I have a 120l Reservoir that is filled 90-110l I top it up once or twice a week to sustain PH and EC, if you want to copy it just go by the EC and use the B (Calcinit) and A (Kristalon Blue/Orange) 50/50. I mix the solution myself with dry salts that I bought in bulk 25kg bags. 4l Water(distilled/RO preferably, tap water is OK) + 1kg salts mixes just fine, keep the solution dark and cool and it will stay stable for months. Dry salts don't expire if kept cool and dry so only mix what you need and keep the rest stored as dry salts. 40ml A + 40ml B is about 2EC and 6PH with my tap water, very similar to Canna, Plagron etc. isn't it? just with the twist that I pay ~20% of the known brands. P2O5, K2O, MgO etc. are always the same as long as they are produced by a good manufacturer, Yara is a world leader in fertilizer production just not to be found in you general hydroponics or hardware store. Any other known manufacturer is fine as well, pick the cheapest. Check Hoocho on Youtube to see a guide on how to mix your own solutions, it ain't that difficult trust me. From week 5 onwards I also use Oxygen granulate (KMPS, CAS-70693-62-8, 2KHSO₅ * KHSO₄ * K₂SO₄) if you want to use this check pool supply stores and buy the cheapest. Keep this one dry, cool and dark. I used a old pill bottle to keep some ready to go because it came in a 1kg container and I only need 2-4g per serving + the bottle has a silica pack in the cap. From week 6 onwards I used Haifa Grow Clean for Details check week 6, I use this one as dry salts and add it directly to the tank, it does not interact in a bad way with the solution. For meassurements I use a generic 8in1 Meter "PH-W218" branded by many companies, as usual, check stores and buy the cheapest. (Check week 1 for an image of it) I got mine from Aliexpress for ~70€ it uses the Tuya app so you can always check your metrics and export them aswell. The PH and EC probe are accurate and are giving me stable results for almost 1 year now, I re calibrate the PH probe once in a while and it is tops 0.15 off after a month, always double check your results with PH drops/paper. Bluelab is... A LOT more expensive for less value. For the timelapses I use 2 Tappo C210 2k Cameras, these have the ability to make the stream available trough RTSP so that you can access it trough a link in a browser and that way I snap a Screenshot with a raspberry pi :) after that I just render it with blender to a timelapse. Sadly they seem to have trouble with the bright lights and I get image trouble over the course of the day, if you have a recommendation hit me up :) The script I use to take the Images: #!/bin/bash ########################################################################################################################################## ##### A script to save images from a rtsp capeable IP cam, Tapo C210 (2k image quality) for example in my case. ##### Images are saved in a directory named "2024_01_01" for example, it uses the "date" command within the system it is running on. ##### You can then render the images to a timelapse, I use blender for that. ########################################################################################################################################## RTSP_URL_LEFT="rtsp://:@:/stream1" #sets the variable for cam LEFT access RTSP_URL_RIGHT="rtsp://:@:/stream1" #sets the variable for cam RIGHT access while true; do TIMESTAMP=$(date +"%Y_%m_%d_%H_%M_%S") #sets the timestamp variable DIRECTORYLEFT=/$(date +"%Y_%m_%d") #sets the directory variable with current day for LEFT DIRECTORYRIGHT=/$(date +"%Y_%m_%d") #sets the directory variable with current day for RIGHT mkdir -p "${DIRECTORYLEFT}" #makes a directory for each day if it doesn't exist for LEFT mkdir -p "${DIRECTORYRIGHT}" #makes a directory for each day if it doesn't exist for RIGHT ffmpeg -y -i "${RTSP_URL_LEFT}" -frames:v 1 -vf "format=yuvj420p" "${DIRECTORYLEFT}/${TIMESTAMP}.jpg" #captures a frame from the RTSP stream and save it as a JPEG image for LEFT ffmpeg -y -i "${RTSP_URL_RIGHT}" -frames:v 1 -vf "format=yuvj420p" "${DIRECTORYRIGHT}/${TIMESTAMP}.jpg" #captures a frame from the RTSP stream and save it as a JPEG image for RIGHT ################################################################################################################################ ##### Waits for 180 seconds, change that depending on how precise you want the timelapse to be, less waiting = more images ################################################################################################################################ sleep 180 done Hope you like my diary, leave a comment and a like if you like it :)

Day 81. Chop day for twin Northern Lights. Day 84. Two rows hanging, not the fattest, I would trim better, but STILL - I think it will be close to hundred ... Said to my friend 80 max ;))) he is running out of previous amazing harvest and this one is definitely smaller ... Stressing him a bit ;)))))))) but you never know till you jar ... Happy Growing !

Day 71: The left plant is starting to show some of the same problems I see on the right plant so I am going to flush her too tomorrow. I think that it is mostly due to the light stress from before, it is just showing now, but to be safe she gets a flush too @5.8 ph Day 73: Hmmmm... It is difficult to see if the problem persists, or its just the affected leaves that will not recover. Should I remove these "sick" leaves? - They seem to be happy abut the new light intensity as some of the problems is defiantly improving like the leaves are praying, and the sides of the leaves does not seem to bend as much. I have been very gentle with the feeding, after having done 3 flushes (15L at 5.8 ph) and have updated my feed schema above Day 75: I am sure that I had some light-stress, and it is over now, but I don't think I see a full recovery.... I think I see the leaves to get more yellow but it might just be as mentioned before, that the sick leaves won't recover but I do not know what to do from here. Should I just leave them, or do you growmies have any suggestions? The grow has, and is, very slow in my opinion but I still see progress UPDATE: I decided to doe some heavily defoliation. It might have been too much for the left one. I haven't done much defoliation, but they where so bushy, that I thought it was necessary to get light on all my buds. Also I wanted to get rid of those "sick" leaves. I think I am on the right track, and the symptoms I see are old problems now

End of week 3 of flower for some reason my phone wont take clear shots, so decided to provide a video for this week Everything seems fine, starting to smell them now Continue to look healthy

Welcome to Week 3 of the Sweet Seeds Gorilla Girl XL Auto’s grow. It’s been extremely cold here in Canada this last few weeks and these plants are doing their best to survive- not thrive. Although they are healthy and happy, they are just not thriving like my previous Sweet Seeds grow from the fall of 2021. The temperatures are only a few degrees cooler than spring, summer and fall but the humidity is extremely low at this particular time of year- 20-25% at best. Without adding additional humidity via a humidifier, my plants are at the mercy of the dry Canadian winters. Week 3 did not bring the expected growth spurt experienced by the plants in my previous Sweet Seeds grow (the Cream Mandarine XL autos). I have included a side by side comparison photo above to show the massive difference in size between the two SS grows. It’s because of the slow growth that I have decided not to top these plants 👎🏼 I increased the water early in Week 3 to 2.1 litres per plant every 4th day (0.52 of a litre per plant per day). Hopefully these ladies pick up a little over week 4. Mom’s Tip for Week #3- To Top or Not to Top?… Topping is an simple technique used by growers to split the main stalk/stem into two separate stalks/stems. This allows for height control when growing XL strains, encourages lower branch growth creating a more equal canopy height and of course- creates two beautiful, big colas instead of one! But topping Autoflowers has long been the source of great debate so I’m here to clarify Mom’s Do’s & Don’ts when topping autos. Do top your plants if they are healthy, thriving and on track (growth wise) with other growers and any info the breeder’s might provide. Don’t top your plants if they appear unhealthy, simply surviving and behind/slow (growth wise) compared to other growers growing the same strain. Do top your Autoflowers between 3-5 weeks from seed or when your plants have grown as many sets of branches as you desire (usually 4-6 sets of branches or nodes). Don’t top your auto’s beyond the 5th-6th week as they are most likely going into full flower. Do top, prior to or very early on in the pre-flower stretch and don’t top too late in pre-flower or once budding has begun- it’s too late and you’ve missed your opportunity for this grow. Do top your plants if you know what you’re doing and you’ve got the right tools. Believe it or not, I use a sterilized set of nail clippers (dedicated to this job alone) as they deliver a clean, controlled, perfect cut every time. Don’t top your plants if you haven’t done your homework or you haven’t got the right tools. Many people use their fingers but I find they are too large and awkward for such a precise job. More than once I have missed (FIM’d) or taken one of the two baby branches that are supposed to be left behind or simply injured those tiny developing branch sites by accident. Do top your autoflowers if you are growing a large/XL strain in a small/short space. This allows the grower to influence/control the overall height of the plants and creates a more equal/level canopy of foliage and eventually bud. Don’t top your auto’s if you are growing a short, fast flowering strain as this can sometimes stall/stunt them a tiny bit. Some Autoflowers run such a tight seed to harvest schedule that they legitimately cannot afford any interruptions in their growing cycle so check the breeder’s info before you chop. Do have fun with growing your Cannabis and don’t be afraid to try something new. Don’t top your Auto’s expecting to triple your yield though. I have learned that it will change the shape and height of your plants and you’ll end up with less low level, larfy bud but your yields will be almost identical whether you top or not. ✂️✂️✂️

week 2 or 14th day I noticed a mutation in my plant but other than that my indoor plant looks so much more healthy than my outdoor plant let's see what the next week brings .....

Día 9 (10/06) N/A Día 10 (11/06) N/A Día 11 (12/06) Llueve mucho. Humedad alta por aquí. Eso les favorece Día 12 (13/06) Se empiezan a desarrollar las hojas verdaderas a una buena velocidad! Todo en marcha! 💨 Día 13 (14/06) Riego ligero 100 ml sólo H20 EC 0,5 en previsión del trasplante en el día 15 de la planta Día 14 (15/06) Se nota que estamos en el día 14 desde germinación y la mayoría de las plántulas van viento en popa! Día 15 (16/06) Hoy procedemos a trasplantar a las chicas a su maceta intermedia de 6,5 litros Se prepara con 5,5 Litros (85%) de sustrato PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS+MYCORRHIZAE + 1 Litro de Insect Frass (15%) + 65 gramos de Earth Vibes Super Soil (10 g/L substrato) Se llena la maceta de sustrato con las manos (limpias) y rompiendo los trozos más gruesos, para que el sustrato esté aireado y esponjoso, sin presionar Se coloca una maceta vacía de 1L para que quede la forma perfecta de la maceta donde están las plántulas (ver fotos) Se espolvorea la parte proporcional de la probeta de microorganismos sobre el agujero de trasplante Se saca la plántula de su maceta actual (bonitas raíces 😍) y se coloca en la maceta final Se riega muy lentamente hasta percolación profunda con H2O EC 0,5 pH 6,5 Se coloca mulch (acolchado) de paja para evitar traspiración excesiva y cuidar a los microorganismos del suelo A ver como reacciona al trasplante! 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Going into week 2 of flowering and shes looking pretty nice if I may say so my self. I've been trying to make her as flat and wide as possible for the last few weeks with some LST using paper clips. For the last few weeks the pH was raising daily from 5.5 all the way to around 6.6 over night so I would have to go back every day and add some pH down to bring it back to 5. I was thinking it was due to light getting into the reservoir so I added more black out to the bucket and for the last 3 nights I've checked the pH has been steady at 5.7 so I'm thinking I solved that problem.

Tied her down this week, was a little too aggressive in doing so & partially snapped 2 branches off. Might try using fishing line & sinkers for lst rather than tying & retying every week with twine.