2 jours de la 7 eme semaines nous commencons a apprecier la dtructure des fleurs qui sera de classe A par son aspect et sa densité

Grow Diary Update: Week 4, Day 2 🌱 Everything is going great today! The plants are really starting to take off, and the canopy is coming along nicely with the LST (Low Stress Training) and topping I’ve been doing. I did have to flush the other day because the PPMS were way too high for this stage, but that’s all sorted now—running at 438 PPMS on the way out, so they're much happier now. 😊 Looking at flipping to flower by the end of Week 5, maybe Week 6 at the latest. The plants are getting no more than 500 PPFD right now, typically hanging around the high 400s, which seems to be working well for them at this stage. In a couple of days, I’ll be increasing the light intensity and boosting up my feed to prepare them for the transition to flower. 🌸 Overall, they’re on track and looking strong. Can’t wait to see how they develop over the next couple of weeks! ✌️

Semana segue bem, planta ainda bebe bastante água.

Seconda settimana di fioritura...anche la Apple strudel sta bene.inizio a sentire dei buonissimi profumi di fiori di ganjah 😂😁😉💪💚💛 Stanno entrando nella 3 settimana di fioritura

Seconda settimana di fioritura...anche la Apple strudel sta bene.inizio a sentire dei buonissimi profumi di fiori di ganjah 😂😁😉💪💚💛

Seconda settimana di fioritura si è allungata la mia bella. Iniziano a profumare bene

Will update more once cured. Very pleased with this muster strain and have already purchase two more mix packs and will be planting more soon.

Day36, 37, 38: Seems to be growing a set of leaves per day now. Super growth! Stretching to the top.

Donnerstag Woche 5 Bisschen Nährstoffe könnten fehlen könnten aber auch die Wurzeln gewesen sein! Waren heute früh zum Teil trocken! Sagte noch.... Aufpassen! Hab es wie zuvor gemacht und unterhalb alles entfernt damit sie die Energie besser nutzen kann, weiß nicht ob das fiming geklappt hat aber die Haze hab ich gespreizt und nochmal gescrogt beidseitig! Auch wieder Bio bizz light und Canna Professional 50/50 und 5 ml rhizotonic! Lampe ist bei 10 cm internodien auch kurz ziehen! Wenn es klappt! Wasser hab ich raus laufen lassen um einen Brand zu verhindern auch Ph neutral also 5,5 Die Alien schaut ganz gut aus außer das sie meines Erachtens etwas zu hellgrün ist! Wachsen tut sie ohne Probleme! Ich dumm Dusel hab noch gesagt.... Ey eigentlich Klasse Sache mit den Wurzeln kannst die direkt düngen! Musst nur die Wurzeln feucht halten!! Dünger haben sie keinen bekommen allerdings ab ich beim Töpfen drauf geachtet das Wurzelwerk nicht zu beschädigen also Topf drücken und langsam seitlich raus Ziehen! Dann sind die Steine auch kein Problem... Normalerweise sind sie eingewachsen! An den Blättern sieht man es ich hoffe nicht das ich sie geschrottet habe! Wurzeln waren über Nacht ausgetrocknet zumindest fast alles was draußen war! Trotz nach Wässern! Topfen haben beide gut überstanden allerdings macht mir die Haze sorgen! Schauen wir die nächsten Tage!! Wachsen alle schön weiter und die Technik hat meines Achten nach auch geklappt! Abstand liegt bei 5 und bei 10 cm Ich hab da auch mal einen Trick gehört bezüglich der Wurzeln, Blütezeit und zusätzliche Produktion aber wann man es macht und außerdem ist es ein sehr großes Risiko! Gleich zu setzen mit dem spalten des Stammes!! Man reißt einen Teil der Wurzeln ab um die Produktion zusätzlich anzukurbeln aber reißt du zu viel ab... Dann hasst du dich selber weil du die Pflanze damit umgebracht hast! Rein theoretisch müsste das ja Reichen wenn du die Pflanze etwas trocknen lässt und dann anheben tust, durch die Steine reißt es auch bedingt!! Nur wann du das machen sollst kann ich nicht genau sagen!! Egal... Kommt Zeit kommt Rat!!! Erst mal auf das Wesentliche beschränken verfeinern kann man immernoch!! Und bei 3 pflanzen, will ich kein Risiko eingehen!! Nicht unbedingt!! Wenn man einmal nicht aufpasst macht sich gleich der Hauswächter auf zur vesite! Typisch Schlange!!! Lass bloß die Pflanzen in Ruhe!!

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Welcome to week six! 🌱 Week five was a complete success – all parameters are perfectly aligned. I’ve increased the water conductivity to a solid 3000 and bumped the CO2 level up to 1200 🌿. Light intensity is now set at 1400 µmol in the center and 1000 at the edges, which will keep the plants strong in their generative state 🌞. I’ll maintain these levels until the end of the third week and then start slowly removing the large fan leaves to ensure the buds get plenty of light 💡✨. I’m also trying something new to activate the “Emerson effect” 🌄: I’m running the deep red lights for 5 minutes before sunset and for another 5 minutes after the day ends. This should give the plants a final boost in photosynthesis, helping to maximize their growth potential! Everything’s looking fantastic so far! The Black Cherry has rooted well across different experimental setups, and at the end of the grow, I’ll provide a full report on the best care techniques for both strains 🌺👌. Willkommen in Woche sechs! 🌱 Die fünfte Woche lief perfekt – alle Parameter stimmen. Ich habe die Leitfähigkeit des Wassers auf satte 3000 erhöht und den CO2-Gehalt auf 1200 angehoben 🌿. Die Lichtstärke beträgt jetzt 1400 µmol in der Mitte und 1000 am Rand, was dafür sorgen wird, dass die Pflanzen stark im generativen Zustand bleiben 🌞. Ich werde diese Werte bis Ende der dritten Woche beibehalten und dann langsam damit beginnen, die großen Sonnensegel zu entfernen, damit die Blüten ordentlich Licht abkriegen 💡✨. Zusätzlich probiere ich etwas Neues aus, um den „Emerson-Effekt“ zu aktivieren 🌄: Ich lasse das tiefrote Licht 5 Minuten vor Sonnenuntergang und 5 Minuten nach dem Ende des Tages weiterlaufen. Das sollte der Photosynthese einen letzten Schub geben und das Wachstum der Pflanzen maximal fördern! Bis jetzt sieht alles fantastisch aus! Die Black Cherry ist in verschiedenen Versuchsreihen gut angewachsen, und am Ende des Grows werde ich einen ausführlichen Bericht darüber abgeben, wie sich die beiden Sorten am besten pflegen lassen 🌺👌.

like a rockets ready to launch!!

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Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Gorilla Zkittlez Auto de FastBuds. La tierra que utilizamos que está en la publicación anterior es top crop all mix, aparte alimentamos nuestras plantas con Agrobeta. Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2, regando cada 48/72 horas e intentando mantener la humedad un poco alta al principio. Se ven bien sanas tienen buen color , ya empiezan asomar aromas y el tamaño bueno no puedo quejarme, estas semanas vemos como maduran las flores. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨

This grow is an example of how important is to check your veg time to make sure it doesn't shoot over the lights and over the roof really, overall is good tho. Also i ditched advanced nutrients for a new brand, since advanced nutrients are just costly stickers imho. 11/16/24 bought a new fert , that will not only last me 10 times with a fraction of cost, also it's much easier then mixing 24 different bottles , also all the liquid ferts tends to cristallize so i don't even know if the fert i've applyied in the past (advanced nutrients perfect ph micro-grow-bloom) was all bioavailable (probably not) since the buds looks already bigger after 1 application. Also Ferty 1 Geo has also molybdenum among the microelements wich was not present on advanced nutrients. cheers!

All right here we are day 100 39 of flower and as expected the buds are not going to be huge I'm thinking thumb size as I stated a few weeks ago it's still got some grown to do so I'm hoping she bulks up.. she smells great and I'm happy with how the canopy came out however I think from now on I'm going to keep the topping to a minimal once maybe twice tops.. thank you Weedseedsexpress for the opportunity to grow your genetics I'm getting excited as strawberry cough has been a long time coming for me.. this plant is one of two that I planted in the same soil and the other one didn't make it because it was used soil with salt based nutrients I say that to say this little girl has really pulled through some tough times and I didn't help any with what I did to her so overall the genetics I would say are extremely stable strong as she had quite the will to live.. I hope everybody is doing well and so are there ladies God bless and happy growing everyone ✌️😎

its harvest time 💚

Had a hermie in the tent, so i took that plant out and filled up the space with suppercropping the other plants. Next update in a few days with more photos.

Loookiinggg gooood

Gibberellin really made her leggy. let's hope it makes her extra flowery too. Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time This describes what Im experiencing without a doubt in my mind, I thought it was a slew of other problems, one by.one they seemed to yield no answer with each remedy. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. Just thought I would share some of my research in an aim to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that point up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and a reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You wont get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with to much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine, is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) causes a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plants vacuoles resulting in the inability for the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the articles abstract "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.