Day 15 PH 6.0 EC 0.8 PPM 410 DLI 20h 10.2 PPFD 142 Water 23c Day 16 Tue Add water and Nuts PH 5.9 EC 1.5 PPM 770 DLI 20h 10.5 PPFD 147 Water 23c Day 17 Wed PH 6.7/5.8 EC 1.6 PPM 810/800 DLI 20h 18.5 PPFD 252 Water 22 Day 18 Thu Add water and Ph down PH 6.0/5.8 EC 1.7/1.6 PPM 840/820 DLI 20h 18.5 PPFD 252 Water 22 Day 19 PH 5.9 EC 1.7 PPM 840 DLI 20h 18.5 PPFD 252 Water 20c Day 20 PH 5.7 EC 1.7 PPM 840 DLI 20h 18.5 PPFD 252 Water 20c Day 21 Sun PH 5.7 EC 1.7 PPM 840 DLI 20h 18.5 PPFD 252 Water 21c

Week commencing Friday 29/01/21; - Switched from veg nutes to bloom nutes as the flowering had definitely started. Using half dosage and alternating feeds with clean water and nutrient water. - Acquired a Brita 8.2l filter tank to remove chlorine, lead etc. Couldn't hurt! - Dramatic height increase from the previous week. - Strange right angle clawing on two of the fat bananas. Pretty sure it's heat stress. - The water intake has increased to at least 750ml per plant. - Some lower tier leaves discoloured. Again, I'm pretty sure it's heat stress. - Stopped the LST this week. The stems have become very rigid and I don't want to risk damage. - I have definitely run out of space and have employed SOG by default. I'll defoliate further next week as I don't want to shock the plants in the early stages of flowering. - The heat is peaking too high and I have started opening the door for ventilation. No extraction is causing all sorts of heat regulation problems. God knows what the peaks are when I'm not here. - I have ordered a digital hygrometer that will display 24 hour highs and lows of temp and RH.

14 days drying 26/3 - Harvest day

Week 7 Apricot left 4 Strawberry Gorilla right 4

The Number's; Started with; 564g Wet on the Scale Finished with; 263g Dried Flower. Plus some Pollen for a Personal project.. IMO; Definitely decent yields for a pheno hunt. Two tents filled with Pheno 3... would be OFF the Chart yields :) That is coming soon ! Big Thanks to EVERYONE who stopped in to support this diary.. your the real MVP's Until Next Time, Cariboo.

Hey now, hope everyone is having a great week. This week went well for the Glueberry Auto OG. She started stretching and grew from 15 to 26 inches this week. I did start to transition her to flower nutrients today, and I am now feeding her silica, cal mag, and half veg and half flower nutrients. I will switch to 75% flower and 25% vegetative nutes next week and then to all flower the following week. I do not wish to totally cut off the veg nutrients yet, as I am fine with her growing another 12 inches or so, but not much more as this light is extremely powerful. I am running the Medic Grow Spectrum X in V1 (blue veg spectrum) and have cranked it up to 100% this week. I am running the UV/IR bars for approximately 75 minutes each day at the end of light cycle just prior to lights off. I will be transitioning to the F1 (red flower spectrum) as well as increasing the amount of UV/IR the ladies are exposed to. After approximately a week of feeding fully Flower Nutrients, I will also utilize a bloom booster (PK Booster) for the final couple of weeks before flushing her for approximately 5 days before harvest. Not much to do this week except keep the reservoir clean, full, and in the proper PH range. If any colas get crazy higher than the others I will correct, but other than that she can do her thing from here on out. Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

5/10 Got up super early for wife's appointment at 7 came home and transplanted 4 of the purple punches. Transplants went good. Soil was too dry and a couple fell right in the hole but I was messing around showing my dad. It just got dropped in the hole a little harder lol. The other that happened to is fine though. Definitely make sure your soil is moist enough before transplanting. My transplanting technique for 3 gallon is to put soil on bottom. Set cup in at appropriate distance then replace cup with plant with soil filled cup and fill around it. Leaves the perfect hole. Then you just snip the cups twice on each side, peel it down and fold the cup down and cradle the bottom and in the hole it goes! Holes have mykoscand a little like water. I water a little after transplant. I misted soil whole mixing it up. 5/11 Dad left the windows open last night "because the soil smell was bothering Lynda." I couldn't ficking believe it. They were all fine when I got back but still. Everything is transplanted into 3 gallon containers bit that 1 purple punch that is a little bit dwarfed. I looked at the bottom of the cup and drainage wasn't as good. Must've been the last cup and the jail didn't go all the way through in a couple places. I increased the drainage on that little dwarf and I'll transplant it when I get time. We are going to have some good weather coming up. I need to get my cage moved, my bags sanitized and get on a good watering routine. UPDATE: Went back over at four and everything's dry as fuck but the leaves are uo and every one of them looks happy so I'm holding off watering. I'll start with a quart probably tomorrow. Also cleaned out tge cage and secured the handles to move it. Only thing left is cleaning and sanitizing. These girls have a south facing window and they LOVE it. It was 80 today. I hope we have an early season. 5/12 Transplanted the last purple punch today. I could easily tell the problem was drainage. It was the last cup I had stacked when I drove the nail threw so it didn't pierce all the way the the other slips and tac holes apparently weren't enough. Used mykos and same soil mixture. Soil was extremely dry. I lifted a pot with dry soil and these were heavier. Commercial buddy said to start with a quart a pliant and see how it goes but I kind pussed out and only gave them 24fl 0z a plant. Half the quart. I asked if I should water more and he said to just wait and see how they like this water and up it to a quart next time maybe quart and a half. Im just leery of overwatering. When i watered SOME of them the water literally just sat there and took forever to absorb. Plants werent wilting though. Soon theyll be going outside during the day and in mdoors at night. UPDATE: Went back over at two and everything looks AMAZING. Healthiest looking plants I've grown. Leaves all pointed up. I'm taking my commercial dudes advice and hoping the water next watering. For now, they're doing amazing. 5/13 Everything is doing greatcso far. Gotta figure out when to start nutes. Considering adding silica but don't want to raise ph to much. I'll consult with others but my the soil blend I'm using is full of nutes. 5/14 Rushed morning and I wanted to water bit the plants looked great still. Sticking my hands deeper I can feel a little moisture deeper down or in the drain holes so I decided to give the blueberry cheese and the 10th planet a "touch of kindness" which was a small circle of water from a small watering can around the outside edge of whete the rootball should lid be. I'm working on getting a watering g schedule down. UPDATE: Went back over at five and everything was looking good with leaves praying. Maybe my half measure helped. Doubtful but still. Tomorrow I plan to water. Since the soil has tons of nites ill probably hold off a little while longer before starting the nutrient schedule. I want to make sure I've got the watering down first. One thing at a time. 5/15 The 10th planet and Blueberry Cheesecgot their first REAL watering since transplant. Still being cautious I watered 28fl Oz a plant. I phed the water with an indicator solution and ph down. I gave the purple punches a "cup of kindness" which was a circle of water around the transplant hole. Can't waif to get a watering schedule down. I wanted to start nutes but my soil is full of them and i believe it's too early. I didn't see ANY run off from this watering. I think that's good as I'm not looking to wash away the nutes in the expensive soil I use. I need to start HST as well but I'm doing things proper and "one at a time". That way if I run into a problem I'll know what I did and how to rectify it. At least I hope. UPDATE: Went back over at 3 leary that I may have "overwatered" but the plants ALL looked AMAZING and had shot up like an inch! Looking into hst and will probable fim a few. Top a few and leave one to grow naturally. Can't wait to see how these girls do outside. 5/16 Wow. Just wow. Plants are doing phenomenal! Since the watering went really well I watered the purple punch bit I only used about 16fl Oz as the plants were a little smaller than the others. I'll up it to a quart next time like I did with the others. I want to USE the nutes in my soil so im not washing them all away by watering to run off. I topped 2 10th planet's and FIMed one of them. I want to see how the respond then I'll begin training the others. Off to a Great Start! 5/17 Glad I held off watering. It's raining today. Just showers. We haven't gotten any of that extreme wind we usually do. I have the plants supported but I still worry. Definitely more than I should. Plants are still doing good and acclikatimg to their new homes.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Day 92 Had no time. Day 93 Her eighth full week of flowering started yesterday and today is the 55th day on 12/12. HSC wrote she needs 50 to 55 days to mature, so i will check her this weekend. Her buds became already very frosty . As the heat wave had ended the humidity inside also decreased. Day 94 Decided to chop her after i checked the trichomes. There are already amber ones at the buds on the middle of the height. She smelled intensively like sour oranges.

As we enter week five we notice some of the plants pre flowering. But not all so I decide to stick with veg nutrients until all are showing pre flowers. Half way through the week and the rest of the plants are showing pre flowers. Just in time as the plants that had pre flowered earlier on in the week are showing slight Newt burn on the tips suggesting It is time to change to bloom newts which holds less nitrogen. The magnified picture are of the pre flowers forming ( two little fuzzy hairs). Interesting fact: it takes thousands of those little fuzzy hairs to form just one bud.

time of writing this il be starting run #3 il be making a diarie for it orange bud auto / dutch passion superlemon haze auto / greenhouse seeds king juice auto / greenhouse seeds strawberry banana auto/ 420 fastbuds

Se sueltan amarras de LST y se deja de tejer en la malla. Ramas presentan crecimiento del 100% durante la semana. Se sube un par de cms la malla. Defoliación selectiva en día 14. Riego por medio con fertilizantes. Riegos abundantes solo con agua. Pistilos comienzan a ser más notorios. Leve olor. Poda de bajos en una semana más. Ventilador en mínimo durante la noche. Al máximo durante el día.

Week two.😎

2/14 Week 14 and things get interesting from here Hell of a journey so far, do not expect that to change now Just taking care of them and enforcing a good neighbor policy with defoliation Without going into a lot of detail we looking at a harvest every three days or so for six weeks starting next week, grow will end 4/4 with the harvest of the Green Crack clones at @63 days of flower. So earlier is possible 2/15 FFT-7 Clones have hit 36 inches already but should not go too much further. famous last words 2/16 Trying all of it on the same feed see how it goes, clones pretty far along think its ok. 2/17 So far so good on the feed, some concern over FFT-7 stretch so what else is new Had to adjust the Peak running out and deliveries are messed up from weather so stretching it out 2/20 Final update on the week: Clones are doing well only the FFT-7 proved undependable on the flowering stretch LSD and Green Crack look on track for 36 inches or less, FFT-7 headed to 4 feet Dropping Grow again on the main flowering feed , clones remain as is, less Nitrogen is needed Ran out of Soul Peak so full dose of KoolBloom till we get more Bambi on the block next looks like Monday followed by Chew Mee and Dink Thurs or Friday. Clearing this tent out so more can come in. And that was the week that was

Note : + jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Zeitraffer Videos folgen immer nachträglich. + videos werden so geschnitten das nur ein geschlossenes Zelt erscheint , ergo Fehlen paar reale Minuten (ca 1 Std) . + Feuerzeug ist 7.5cm hoch und 1.7cm breit + WEIHNACHTS ZEITRAFFER 2024- SPEZIAL HINZUGEFÜHGT !!! Ich hab keine Ahnung was es wiegt , da ich keine Zugwage hatte. Ich hoffe die Bilder geben ungefähr wieder was es wohl werden wird . Eigentlich hab ich nur gegossen und gedüngt, den Rest hat der Zwerg selber gemacht. Hätte nie gedacht soviel aus dem Zwerg zu bekommen. Update : hochgerechnet waren es 550g nass. Getrocknet : 99g mit Popkorn Buds aber weitgehenst von Stängeln befreit bzw jede knospe einzelnt abgeschnitten, ausser bei den TopBuds .

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