HEMPY - Gorilla Glue Auto's

@Verbalist,...😁yup🏆🤓

@JamMAKEcan, hah thats so true! 👍

@Verbalist,..ahh man i feel it for u friend.. 😭😭Thats bull.. 😢4real ..U know.. Today ur a criminal tomorrow they vote now your part of society.😎. So fake with these laws.. Think about how many people whos lives are ruined just to have it change.. Real sad... Anyways.. I also have to sleep with an eye open lol... Hope u learned 1 step ahead is always better that inline with em lol 🔭😎😁🏆👍🏆👍🏆🏆🏆

@Verbalist,Thank you for the very detailed response. Mine is the one with 3500K diodes and 660nm Red diodes but it also has UV and IR diodes. When I ordered the light I thought it would have a switch to turn the UV and IR on/off but it doesn't. However other then them beginning to prey I don't see any other signs of light stress. I think I might buy some CFLS. it was a thought that crossed my mind but now it makes more sense. I would wanna aim for the blue end of the spectrum right? like 6000k? If I just get 4 45w 6000k CFLS? Thank you for the advice, I've been worried about trying to push more power to my light but it sounds like I'm probably already pushing hard enough. I'm gonna try to chill out and just see how she responds, maybe lower it some and see how she likes it.

Hey @PhunkyPhallus ! Appreciate your concern and I'll try to answer best as I can. Okay, firstly this diary comes little behind as I chopped the plants down ~3days ago. I'll update it soon. But yes to the subject. Quickly checked your diary and the board looks very much the same. Mine is KingBrite's 240W Samsung LM301b board. The board only has two different diodes: 3500K 'White' Leds and 660nm Red diodes. So the output color temperature (CCT) is close to ~3000K, which is then very reddish spectrum. 3500K diodes support narrow scale of blue wavelengths. Plants can not utilize all that red light, even in full bloom. It's ofcourse strain depent, BUT when plant can't absorb all the light it converts into heat on the leaf surface (your tent/canopy temp wont rise tho) and plants start showing light/heat stress. Excessive red light also ’forces’ plants to transpire more which then creates nutrient imbalances and deficiences/excess symptoms may appear. And I believe that was my issue. During the veg I had a different 4000K temp led's and I ran them between 700-1000ppfd. Under the 240W led plants never looked happy when PPFD exceed 500-700. And about lowering my ppfd near the end was because the buds started to show worse light stress symptoms more and more (foxtails & chlorosis) When leaves starting to "pray" at a tight angle they're trying to cover the leaf surface from excess light. With your plants I'd first try to dim the light down to 350-450ppfd which would result in about 30-40DLI with 18/6 or 20/4 light cycle. And start working way up from there. OR try adding some more blue light eg. CFL's for richer spectrum. Our LED boards are mass products made in China. Indeed they're very strong fixtures, but the spectrum is not best designed for all plants. Hope this helps at all! 🙂 If you've got any further questions don't hesitate to reply here or send me a DM. - Verb

@Foxylove420, thanks mate! 🙏

Thank you master 😎 Always good to have you on board @Kynareth

@Verbalist, Maybe a flush may help, flush the pots,and start with your new feeding schedule, just keep the EC low. Sometimes it really depends on the phenotypes, you're right. Give her 1 day to recovery at least if you gonna flush. Wish you the best with your grow buddy 👍

Hi @PremiumBudsEU and thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. Thats exactly what I've been trying for the past two days. (The plants are actually on day 57, today 6/1/2022 - haven't uploaded everything yet) Made a new lighter feed mix and ending EC was 1.3 So can't really tell if the tip/margin burn still continues, but for sure the leaves are now losing the green shades which happens IMO interveinal. And that would prob indicate in Magnesium def (they only getting about 35ppm of Mg now as lowered Remo nutes down to 1ml/L and everything in 1:1) I knew Mg def could show up as theres only 1ml/L CalMag. And can't rise the Mg ppms much as it will then block Ca.. And then if I'd up only CalMag dose to 1.5-2ml/L then the whole mix heavily N based. I'll try to upload the rest of the pics later today to show up how it looks now. Lol these are for sure the hardest phenos I've grown. Well just gotta keep tryin 😅

@Verbalist, If you feeding multiple times a day, lower the EC to 1-1.3 bruh 😎 Sometimes you don't need to push to max. I had the same problem with zkittles on my coco grow , i lowered the EC from 1.8 to 1.3 -1.0, was feeding 3-4 times a day

Hi @XII_XII_EarlyRaver and thanks for stoppin by. Yeah I know right, frustrating! 😅 And yeah they look a lot happier again when RH stays low between 45-55%. Humidity quickly messes up VPD.. And the mold would be the last thing we want, hah right? 🤞

Thank you @MarryJuan 🙏 Juan love - MaryJane 😁✌️

Thank you @DEVS_GENETICS 😇🙏