Let the > 30% sativa out

I wouldn't worry much about the purple coloration on the stems as that's most likely the phenos pigmentation. Also as far as her being pale I really don't think it has anything to do with what you're doing but just the normal transitional stress of going from veg to bloom. Some phenos can handle it better than others and I've been through this myself with a GSC pheno I had that faded to such a light green in the first couple weeks of flower I thought for sure something had to be a miss and actually posted here as well. She ended up getting over the hump so to say but ultimately stayed a lighter shade of green. Hope this helps.

I have a strong feeling it's a calcium deficiency. I looked through your diary and noticed you only have mag listed and not calcium with it. It's normally best to use these nutrients in conjunction because they basically have a symbiotic relationship and work together. Shes getting the mag but not the cal. I would get some bush doctor that's low in nitrogen so you don't drive your ppm up and see if this helps her. Hope this helps.

hai una carenza di fosforo macchie blu una carenza anche di tutto il resto.. ricordandoci che il ph a meno che non sia estremo in coltivazione conta poco... guardando la tua fertirrigazione è normale abbia tutte le carenze hanno fame bio bloom e bio grow dovresti dare 4+4 ml un altra cosa i ppm sono della soluzione che utilizzi o dello scarico? fai conto che dovresti dare almeno 1200ppm e in uscita normalmente sono di piu a meno che la pianta non abbia fame... ricorda che i ppm possono anche imbrogliare un prodotto con molti sali puo dare un ec alta anche se in realta potassio fosforo e azoto ce ne sono pochissimi il mio parere è dagli un irrigata solo con biobloom e biogrow 4ml ognuno contengono tutti i nutrimenti necessari se hai micorizze sarebbero una manna

ed eccomi qui a dire il contrario di tutto... primo ,il controllo del ph serve solo con fertilizzanti minerali e mi sembra che tu stia usando mono magnesio di canna e questo è l'unico minerale che usi e il magnesio viene assorbito meglio dalla pianta con un range di 6,5-7,5 piu o meno utilizzando i fertilizzanti bio non è il ph a far assorbire i nutrimenti ma sono le micorizze che scompongono i nutrimenti e li donano alla pianta ,la pianta invece produce carboidrati che li scambia con i nutrimenti delle micorizze quindi il risultato del ph di deflusso non è un numero su cui fare affidamento per quanto riguarda la somministrazione di cal mag organico e magnesio minerale ti puo' portare ad avere degli scompensi il calcio e il magnesio vanno sempre in coppia come 2 persone sposate ma se metti piu magnesio la coppia ha dei problemi ora potresti domandarti ma se fanno annche il ph- bio a qualcosa servira' diciamo che fa guadagnare soldi e il ph regolato anche se poco utile in bio non da problemi

They are looking good. Light color is from light stress plus burnt tips that are straight means it was wanting more potassium. Your ph might be getting put of line due to plant wanting more then it has to consume. Enjoy the smoke. You should be starting a fade very soon. So colors won't matter. It may color morph out during that time.

Don't worry they haven't gone into reveg. With regards to the lemon tree it looks really good but I would wait till 20% of trichomes turn amber. It is really close to being ready for harves though so check it daily. Good luck with the rest of your grow and good job

Yescthis plant is done in a about a week. You want to go off trichromes on the buds. Not the sugar leaves. Looking good enjoy🌱

From zooming on your diary images, you don't have any amber trichomes yet, most are still transparent some are milky. On the other hand your pistilis have turned orange and curled. You have a max of 2 weeks left from these images. With regards to flush, you need to start the flush 14 to 10 days before harvest so you can give them 1 more give feed and then start the flush. More details: Get yourself a jeweller's loupe (ideal, but a magnifying glass or even your phone camera will do) and check the bud trichomes. You will thank yourself because cutting early gives you the feeling of missed potential. Once you have looked at the magnified trichomes, you should look for the milky trichomes. The milky trichomes are full of THC. The transparent one's are undeveloped (less THC) and the amber ones are a bit overdeveloped because the THC will have started deteriorating. Since not all trichomes switch at the same time, I would aim for 20% amber trichomes. More amber trichomes creates more of a body high (usually associated with indica strain) while less amber trichomes gives you more of a head high (usually associated with sativa strains). P.S. Following pistils (the white hairs on the buds) alone is not reliable but you want to have most of them turn orange and start to curl. Good luck on the rest of your grow 😃. Looks like a good yield

Looks weird 😅... Judge the harvest point as you normally would. Most look for the point when their trichomes are mostly cloudy and take the crop down at that point. Don't worry about it foxtail is still good that just happened because of light/heat stress try lower the heat or setting ur light away from the buds or dim it to 80-90% at the end still will be good

Your plants all seem to have just started their fade.... Whether they are indica or sativa, I'd give them another week at least and take away all their nutes... given them a nice, week-long flush with plain pH'd water and then chop away. They're all wonderfully frosty! Good job! Cheers....