Anastesia #1 Purple sunset

runoff ppm should be a bit further out on pH scale / ppm than the water you put in... and a further out on pH scale / ppm than what is in the substrate. It's "dirty" water re-hydrating substrate, so the solutes that went out of solution due to evaporation will go back into solution as you water... so there's the fertilzier you (typically) add and then the stuff that dried out before the plant could drink it... ==> higher ppm / more acidic in most cases of a garden with pot plants. if for some reason your substrate is alkaline, it'd be more alkaline than the substrate is as above for an acidic context for the exact same reasons... that's what's in the pot what runs off. Anyway, i don't see any major symptoms on the single picture from faw away that you provide -- assume that's just some moisture on it? Your plant looks fine in previous week too. The cotys are healthy and they'll be the first thing shed if there's a problem. In soil you want to ramp up slowly... allow plant to react to what you've done and read it... adjust and repeat. I see you ramped up nutes recently, so if odd things occur in next week it's going to be due to what you fed. always some unknowns with soil until you are familiar with the product, assuming consistency from manufacturer. a whole mess of trial and error if the symtpoms are not clearcut. if you don't know what is in the soil you don't know what needs to be supplemented... ratio of nutes fed is equally important to concentration of each nute fed. assume it was 800 ppm? 8000ppm would cause death in all plants i know about. anything over 3EC is quickly lethal. EC -> ppm conversion is different based on region, it's better to use EC for commnication just in case you are in europe and i am in USA and our pens convert FROM EC differently... ppm is never directly measured with these cheap pens and even the more expesnive bluelabs.. they measure electrical conductivity then convert that to ppm/tds... in the USA it's just doubleing and moving decimal.. you have to divide by 10/7 (2 in usa) and move decimal accordingly. So 1.5EC on my pen is 750ppm. in europe it'd be 1050ppm. to my eye 750 is safe... 1050 in a soilless context (mine) is dangerous long-term. You can see how this can influence how a question or answer is received if ppl are form 2 different regions.

If it’s your own cross.. no one can tell you if that’s the reason it’s slow better than you. You should have first hand experience with each parent. If there’s no similarities with parents, it’s probably just a runt. It does appear to be displaying the beginnings of a polyploid or possibly some fasciation. Aside from all that.. yes I believe it should be bigger for 24 days old

By crossing autos and photoperiod plants you get photoperiod "fast/early version" plants. To preserve the auto flowering trait, you need to breed autos with autos.

Ph can change by the hour if it is not getting the appropriate level of nutrition. Too little it goes up too much it goes down. The salts can work in your favor and grow a thriving plant or opposite if not regulated.

Have you been getting the leaves wet. What is your humidity at? Looks like nutrients in the water that dried up on the leaves.

The ideal PPFD for plants is is between 100 and 300 µMol/m2/S for the seedling stage. It gets slightly higher for the vegetation and flowering stages – 300-600 µMol/m2/S and 600-750 µMol/m2/S, remember though that fox tailing is also caused by excessive heat, light stress and genetics keep all this in mind.