Following The Grow Boss tips on YouTube
"...yield is based on light, quality is based on growers talent"
"...number one problem is, too much light, too much water, too many nutrients"
Nutrients : (after having issues with nut burns, I decided to use Grow Boss's perfect ppm calculator)
Invasion T (Glomus intraradices BEG72 and TRICHODERMA atrovide MUCL45632) 1g / plant
Monster X mycorhizes (500 000 propaguls / Kg , made in vitro) 2g / 20cl then complete to make 1l
Humic Fulvic Booster (humic and fulvic acids) 1ml / 1l
Cannazym 2.5ml / 1l
Rhizoponics 0.4ml/1l
Lights:
1 x Adjust-A-Wings Avenger 600w MH SuperPlant Super Blue 32000 Lumens (14000k)
Soil:
Platinium Royal Mix premium quality
What is vapor pressure deficit?
Often, marijuana growers who have their plants in indoor grow tents or rooms with artificial lighting, take into account parameters such as temperature and relative humidity to maximize plants growth and bloom, thus obtaining abundant harvest with top quality flowers. As we will see later, these factors affect different processes of the plant, such as transpiration or nutrient uptake.
However, we usually forget about another important factor that is related to the aforementioned ones: vapor pressure deficit or VPD. Broadly speaking, VPD is the difference between the amount of water vapor that the atmosphere is able to retain (which depends on temperature) and the amount of water vapor contained in it (relative humidity). It is usually measured in kilopascals (kPa).
Providing our plants with a correct relationship between temperature and relative moisture will keep us on the right VPD parameters, increasing the plantβs activity and thus improving its growth and showing its full potential during the flowering phase. The ideal would be to adjust both parameters (temperature and humidity) to get the best possible VPD value, so that the development of plants will be amazing.
In the chart above you can see the right temperature and moisture values to maximize the development of cannabis plants. The green zone shows you optimal values of VPD, in which it would be ideal to maintain the environment. The orange zone shows correct values, in which plants should not have problems to develop normally. However, red areas show values in which your plants will be very far from hit their full potential, since the relation between temperature and moisture is not optimal.
With relatively high values of VPD (between 5 and 12) plants tend to open their stomata and release a considerable amount of water vapor into the environment (increasing their transpiration). This increase in transpiration results in an increase in the plantβs photosynthetic activity, which will need more nutrients and will improve its overall growth, both during growth and bloom. The best range is between 7.5 and 10.5, which we have marked in green. However, we must be careful that VPD is not too high (dark red zone) since the plant would close its stomata to avoid releasing too much water vapor to the environment, which would result in fast dehydration due to excessive transpiration.
On the other hand, if VPD is too low (light red zone), the plant will also close its stomata for not releasing more water into the atmosphere, which in this case would be already saturated (it would have reached the maximum water retention capacity in a specific temperature). In this way, reducing transpiration will also reduce photosynthesis, which has a direct impact on the plantβs development and yield.
That way, VPD is essential when it comes to offer the best conditions for the development of plants, also to understand its water requirements according to the nutrients used and thus adjust them correctly to meet the growerβs expectations.
N/B:
SAY NO TO DRUGS
-[Day 21]
3rd week ending , everything is OK , just some lil nut burns on some of them but it's better than having deficiencies in the early stage ... 5 fans leaves coming out on the 3rd node , I'll wait until the 5th node to see if they stop pre-Veg at 7 fans or if they go up to 9 fans leaves to end pre-Veg .
-[Day 29]
5th week starting, got some good scalp. Flushing with Bud Flush to evacuate the salt , 10/12 plants are in healthy condition ( for the moment , keeping fingers crossed )
-[Day 30]
Transplanted the baby's, added Invasion T (1g/plant), Monster X (2g/1l), Rhizoponics (0.4ml/1l), Humic Fulvic Booster (1ml/1l), Cannazym (2.5ml/1l), in water at pH 6.5, total ppm 898
-[Day 34]
Finally transplanted into 5gal pot, the game is starting now ! Move on'up ! ( like Curtis says )
-[Day 35]
Some plants start to have purpling stem, added Canna Mono MgO 1ml/1l for some of them
Very nice buddy. ππ I'm really happy for you. Looks like you got a pretty nice yield per plant., an average of about almost 6 oz of plant. Good job...ππ
I feel like I've been sucked right into the board game with the jungle and the hunter!!!! I'm waiting to see a lion jump right out of those buds. Great work as always @JUNGLE_B4RNS.
very detailed grow...full of great information..
and so i have a question for B4RNS and everyone else: how do you get your humidity high and constant? :D
peace out guys :)
@djibra,for 10-15 m2 you need a 5 heads, a buoy, and a big bucket (30-40L). And you just plug the mist maker on the hygrostat controler.
Making humidity is cheap and easy using this equipment...
It gets more tough when it's all about decreasing RH when buds start to swell ... you might need a serious dehumidifier with a kompressor if you grow a jungle bro.
@JUNGLE_B4RNS, thanks for the reply mate
.I was looking at them mist makers"(2 and 3 sonic heads if im right) but was sceptical about them...how many should go for 10-15m2?
I too use a hygrostat controller but I had enough of low humidity grows since it's pretty hard to keep it with the old towel method.
now I'm planning to do my first photoperiod grow (although I have 5 years of experience in growing autos) and want to do it all good this time and document it here..so I'm collecting all the info I can get :D
@Teamdirtbag2,Yes you got it, they are Indica's. Indica's are known for their high amount of CBN.
Technically Indica's are psychoactive in 8-9 weeks but they are far away to be at their full potential.
Those Indica's are fully loaded of ambers tric's, about 50 to 60%, with 50 to 40% of milky and cloudy. That weed knock you down, it's like a powerful analgesic/anti-inflammatory for medical needs, otherwise it's the kind a weed that heavy stoners like because they get that heavy lazy feeling where they get locked and enjoying to do nothing for hours loosing totally the time notion π
Plus the fact that I finish my plants entirely to make them run on their reserves of starch for sweetness and smoothness. I have explained to @CANNASIM, and @Mr_Di, on my Blueberry diaries how I proceed and how it works to get a super sweet tasty flavor in your weed.
I once saw a table (wrote it down) with temp and humidity recommendations for each stage as follows:
Clones 70-80% rh at 70-85F
Veg 40-60% rh at 70-85F
Early flower 40-50% rh at 65-80F
Final 3-4w flower <<40% aim for 25% at 60-75F
Flush <<40% aim for 25% at 60-75F
Dry 50% rh at 70F
Cure 60% at 70F