Super patata

Bti will control it within 2-3 weeks.. using sticky traps to kikll some adults will help speed that up. "dunks" are for a reservoir and "bits" are for top dressing -- usually 1 top-dress per 3 weeks is enough. The dunks you leave in the reservoir and they slowly dissolve releasing more bacteria. Depending on current, might last 1 month or so, but often dissolve faster in a res with current / bubbles / agitation etc. In future, you can use these pre-emptively and avoid the problem altogether. This is safe for young plants too. pop a couple bits into a solo cup or whatever. it'll be 99% effective.. you my still see 1, maybe 2 gnats flying aound... it kills larvae, so it'll take 2-3 weeks to fully go into effect. won't do anything to later stages of gnats. Any soil stored outside is likely to come with gnats. unless you know the substrate has been properly stored, always adding bti at start is a good idea.

How about a Drosera or three? growdiaries.com/diaries/164285-grow-journal-by-z4z0z

Beneficial Nematodes from Amazon, if you order today they should be there in 3 days if you have prime....

No it's not coco but soil. Yeah i stopped to feed her everyday and i let it dry. It helped. Now that im in 4th week, i feed her with 2ml bio bloom and 1ml bio grow in 1000ml water and fed him from the bottom not the top. What do you say?

you don't want to choose the volume... the pot, sustrate and whatever else was mixed in dictate water capacity. How much perlite or similar you use will impact this greatly. coco vs typical soil vs sphagnum peat moss etc.. So, with soil you'll want to find some balance of fertilize and water-only irrgation. This is something you'll ahve to work out over time.. take some notes on concentrations and ratios of nutes used (weighted average based on dosage of anything used can help make smarter adjustments and speed up the learning curve.) Your ratio of nutes will be slightly different due to how the soil was amended than any other garden. this is why you have to go through that learning curve on your own. One thing is certain.. it's much easier to add than it is to reduce something in the substrate/plant. How often? again some personal preference here... every other irrigation? every third? This mostly depends on the concentration you use for your fertilizer... higher concentration means less frequent application... in your garden, the plant will use roughly the same amount of nutes per week or per month either way. Maybe, sligtly more if you do more frequent fertigations with lower concentration -- this is partly why soilless is a bit faster growth - not necessarily better.. there are pros to soil too. like pH pretty much takes care of itself and being more forgiving withe fertilizer choices. The other tidbit about fertilizing in soil -- again, something you need to learn to balance on your own -- the early ramp up. You soil will come with fertilizer in it... hopefully at a good ratio and safe concentration. you may not need much early on, but will want to ramp up as what comes amended in soil is used up by plant. 25% - 50% - 100%? its' somethign that depends on the soil you buy. Observe and react to plant.. e.g. if you see the cotyledons start to pale, probably a good time to start ramping up your fertilization, slowly. That should be first sign you see, typically. It's okay if plant sheds cotyledons, too.. don't react too much to them alone.. jsut a good signal the plant is ready for 'something' Okay, back to volume.. with the above understood... water (fertilizer or water-only) until the entire volume gets wet -- minimal run off will ensure it... you want minimal runoff.. if you can dial in volume where it's just soggy at bottom, that's fine too.. might as well not leech the soil of the nutes it came with or if doing every 3rd fertigation, not leeching out what you provided inbetween. Feeling the weight of the pot, and watering at same light-feeling will result in a consistent volume necessary to do the above. It may not be a rounded 500mL or 1.5mL, but if close you can round up if you want for an easier number to work with when mixing nutes... then you don't have any excess lying around until the 'next' time... though if you keep it dark and not overly warm, re-using it in a few days is safe 99.9% of the time. Longer is going to need some sort of agitation to avoid stagnation. There's a lot written here but just keep it simple... be sure to saturate entire pot, then wait for top 1" to dry, and repeat (same process for fertilized or unfertiized water). Any runoff send down drain or toss ouside on any plant not in a pot. it can be a mindless task eventually. you'll play mad scientist for a few grows trying to find the right balance, and eventually it'll just be by rote. The SOP will not change... i'm not specifically familiar with bio-grow et al products, but i'm pretty sure it's not hard to find soil diaries using those products... check out some Germ through 2-3 weeks to see how they ramp up. consider that soil products to vary to some extent, too.. .but will bee a good gist of what you need to do, nonetheless.

If this is coco. Then yes you can feed everyday. Maybe drop it down to 250ml and then later that day follow up with a water feed. And hard flush once a week. If soil. You don't need to water/fert every day. But it looks like coco. But, 1ml grow and what you said. Yes it's too much at this stage. Idk your ppm but it would be well over 3-400ppm which is the range you should be in at this stage. And shouldn't have to exceed 500ppm tap ppm included. And later for flowering again. You shouldn't need to go beyond 7-800ppm. For your entire grow. With coco you really need a PH/EC solution pens. Feel free to dm for more details regarding this, or anyone who answers here will be happy to help. Good growing.

i'd wait for when they are ready to transplant -- when you normally would do so... it certainly wouldn't hurt to add more perlite to mix, if a bit shy to start. if the substrate holds a ton of water, go 50/50 with whatever you transplant into... if it's sandy or coco you can use less bc that stuff holds less water per volume. coco holds 2/3rds the water per volume as sphagnum peat, for example, and 70coco/30perlite is essentially the same as 50/50 as far as how much water the pot can hold. it's the best for root health and growth.

Hi. I would wait at least until the 3rd week; right now the roots are small and it can be risky. If you wait a few more days, their roots will be stronger and you can do your transplant with more peace of mind. Good luck!

oh, now that i look at diary.. i see the seedling is in the final home... this would be dangerous.. it almost certainly would entail cutting/breaking some roots.... it's early enough that it might be the best relative to 3-4 more months of growth. But, even within 1 week, it's tap root is probably nearing the bottom of pot if not already there.. plus all the side growth...

Let your soil dry out more Top dress your pots with perlite BTI to kill larvae Sticky traps for flies Should sort it out pretty quick that way. Good luck

Creepy_Steve is spot on... I used Mosquito Bits when I had that problem (soaked the granules in water as directed then watered my plant with it removing the granules first) ... gnats were gone in one application... it will kill not only the adults but the larvae and eggs as well. Fungus gnats like to live in very moist soil so if you've got a problem with them, it suggests you're keeping your soil too wet... let it dry out completely between waterings/feedings. Good luck...

Steve’s got my vote. BTI is the best answer for fungus gnats that I’ve used

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Your soil medium could also be too dense. Maybe try a medium with more porosity like pro mix HP.

I really don't think you should be increasing her feed at this time. You had a gnat problem that she's recovering from and her soil looks a bit wet from what I can see. She does look a bit on the small side but your ph is also high at 7. You want around 6.5. With autos the nutrients aren't everything. It's mostly just ensuring they have the proper environment to not get stressed out and mess your yield up.

I would try what you're describing and also add some predictor nematodes you can get them on Amazon delivered in like 3 days for 20$ that should really give ya step up in the fight

You have been feeding bloom too early. You don't need it until they actually start to flower. Also try bringing you ph down to 6.5, 7 is a bit high & no more bloom until she's in flower. Make your next 2 watering just that & ensure your getting a 10% run off each time.

Your new grwoth is healthy.. these are one of teh early sets of leaves (3-fingered) ... so, i'd hesitate to react to it too soon.. but do keep an eye on it. If i had to guess, you may need a bit more K.. see some paling happening along edges of serrated tips of leaves... and, the leaves are curling up slightly... again, i'd hold off, because new growth looks fine and sometimes the earlier leaves are just ugly. Any hint of further progresssion, then go ahead and react to it. leaf symptom chart that explains the difference between mobil and immobile nutes and various visible symptoms related to each.. -- https://loudclouds.co/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/marijuana-deficiency-chart-jorge-cervantes.jpg Find something like that in your native language. As you reference it, you learn it. You get better at diagnosing issues. But, those first 2 sets of serrated leaves often have blemishes that you never see again as the plant matures. Always good to rule out pH issues and consider recent fertilization habits. Some symptoms overlap...

Nutrient burn. But not bad. Just back off the nutes a little and she should bounce back for ya. Hope this helps.

Yes she has entered the flowering stage!

I would call this "flowering", yes. As in, I'd expect the seed company's definition of bloom (e.g. "7-8 week flowering period") to begin from the moment you see the first pistils appearing. However, I'd keep feeding "grow" nutrients for now, as Organoman has suggested. The stretch hasn't finished yet and the plant needs nitrogen more at this time than any other, as they'll grow quickly for another week or two. Bloom nutrients generally contain lower nitrogen, so switching too early will see your leaves yellow etc. Wait until you have proper flower tops developing before switching, or at least wait another week and go 50/50 with grow and bloom nutrients. You should add PK (if using) about 3-4 weeks after the pistils appear, once the buds have elongated. Good luck!

Not quite. She'll stretch a bit more and trow some more pistils.

The photo you've uploaded doesn't show burnt leaf tips, but it does show brown splodges on your leaves. I would guess that it's a potassium deficiency and/or PH lock out. Could also be heat/air flow issues or pests in the garden (such as broadmites - although they usually leave very distinctive leaf warps behind). I'd check the PH first and foremost.