Tangie ( Royal Queen Seeds )

Good morning from little miss, What has happened so far: After about 3 days, I put the seedling in a jiffy and waited for the seed coat to push up. Then it went straight into the final pot with the soil mixture already described. I could now increase the humidity with the humidifier, but I think that would be a waste of money and energy. In my opinion, a glass jar placed over the top would also do the trick. As you can see in the first picture, Tangie is developing very well. As far as the plant is concerned, I would like to say a few words about my further plan: I have planted the seed off-center as I want to use two guiding techniques. First, I will start very quickly with an LST towards the center of the pot. After the second real pair of leaves, I will also do a topping. I hope to achieve two things at once with this approach; on the one hand I will get a very symmetrical plant, and on the other hand I can guide the plant much lower due to the arch achieved at the beginning. From my point of view, this is necessary as I have a very limited box height and don't want to restrict myself in this respect. I am always open to tips and will show you what I mean in the coming weeks. And now a few comments on my setup: As you can see in the picture, the small PC fan to the left of the pot serves as a supply fan. This would not actually be necessary, as the main fan already draws plenty of air. However, a big advantage of this is that I have a little more influence on the shape of the airflow. Otherwise, the main fan would simply pull diagonally through the room; now I have more of an S-shaped airflow. The small gray sensor box contains an ESP32, which is connected to my home network via the WLAN access point in the basement. The most important sensor installed is the DHT22, as it records the temperature and humidity very accurately. The reason for having two different brightness sensors is easy to explain: I thought the LM393 was enough for me, but this sensor is mainly used to determine whether there is light or not (threshold sensor). The BH1750, on the other hand, has a much higher resolution and outputs a value between 1 and 65535 lx, which is much more suitable for my application. One problem, however, is that the sensor box is hanging; I should actually have positioned the BH1750 so that it is facing the LED panel in order to obtain meaningful measurement results. I think I will change that in the course of this grow. I have already purchased a GP8403 PWM module which, also connected to the ESP32, is to take over the light dimming of the LED panel from Spiderfarmer. But more on that later. The white sockets are the Gosund EP2, which I flashed with Tasmota OS. Here you have to make sure that they have the ESP8285, otherwise the flashing will no longer work. The sockets then speak MQTT and can be configured and read out in Home Assistant using the Mosquitto MQTT broker. In addition to remote control, the sockets have the great advantage that they record the energy consumption. You then get a very good feeling about the power consumption of the system. I will go into more detail about the HomeAssistant setup in a later post if anyone is interested ;-). I think the rest is self-explanatory, but feel free to ask questions if anything is unclear. One thing I definitely need to change is either the position of the camera, or the position of the turbulence fan (The last picture was taken with the Reolink E1 and probably says it all ;-)). That's it from me now. sincerely TimothyGrow