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Bubble runtz auto

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12 hours ago
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Black 720 LED/720W
Black 720 LED/720W
Hydrolab
Grow Tent
Indoor
Room Type
Light mix
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 2
Vegetation
18 hrs
Light Schedule
25
°C
°F
Day Air Temperature
12+ conditions after
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Commented by
Redeyejedi97 Redeyejedi97
12 hours ago
Any tips would be good? Don't know if I'm doing it right or not, added .5ml of canna a&b into the 1.5l split between 4 plants at 350ml a plant
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Grow Questions
Redeyejedi97
Redeyejedi97started grow question 12 hours ago
Any advice would be helpful?
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 11 hours ago
I agree with numbers, also lowering the RH would be helpful 80% is a bit high.
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Green_claws
Green_clawsanswered grow question 9 hours ago
The light mix has enough feed init for now pal with the extra feed from Canna is looking to much for her. water only next 4 days. Let dry out nearly like ever watering.. Peace and love 💚
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 12 hours ago
two things.. Why do the seedlings show symptoms? The seed should have enough to power growth with no symptoms and that "light mix" has a charge of nutes. So, either the charge is a shitty balance or your lights might be a tad too intense (or were early on etc) and caused the leaves to cannibalize itself a bit. yellowing from inside out is an odd progression and indicates s-deficiency, but again, this would be very difficult to have an actual nute deficiency this early, lol. This is why i think it's the lights being a tad too intense a bit early. if it is the lights, you'll see that impact node spacing really soon, and if it's nutes it'll progress further like a leaf symptom chart indicates. I would re-assess light intensity if you haven't already. If you think you caused it early and have already adjusted, that's fine too. Nothing to over-react to, but you can easily avoid such things and have a healthier plant early on without the paling. Watering habits... first the basics under normal context. 1) fully water the pot - you don't choose the volume. you give what is necessary to accomplish the task. 2) wait for top layer or top 1" to dry (depends on medium, if it's coco coir, just the surface, if soil, wait for 1" deep to dry) 3) repeat. if soilless, fertigate everytime. If soil, depends on how concetrated you want to feed.. the more concentrated the less frequently you add it. It's a simple process that is nearly impossible to fuck up.. impossible to over/underwater. if your soil is constituted properly, you should never see droop after any normal irrigation adhering to these 3 simple steps. if you do, you need more perlite or similar mixed in. The problem with a big pot and a small plant is it is very difficult to water properly. Fully watering the pot is not wise for this context, so you water a smaller column around the tiny plant and as it grows you water a wider circle, but you want the water to go all the way down each time or you'll train superficial roots, which is not ideal. Roots physically grow toward greater moisture. Your drying pattern wil be fucked up if you don't water all the way down to bottom of the pot and roots will grow less deep. it's a total lie that autoflowers should not be up-potted. I've yet to see a plant be 'shocked' from gently placing it into a larger pot and filling substrate around it. Multiple hundreds of up-pots and yet to see it. The benefits of doing it are numerous and the cost/risk is nil. If you use your retard strength and maul the plant to the point the rootball disintegrates, then you might want to avoid up-potting. It's a simple procedure that really should not be a problem for even a beginner to accomplish consistently. Try to do it near the beginning of an irrigation cycle, so that the substrate sticks together better with moisture, but regarldess, the root system should be developed enough to hold it together by itself if you do it at appropriate times anyway. fight the dogma... don't fall for it.
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