majklsoft Germinated in water (I forgot to adjust the pH, but it’s around 7.0, which is still acceptable). I took a bit of a risk and germinated only one seed — a true one-horse bet… or rather, one mare. This time, I decided to start in a solo cup, even though it’s generally recommended to begin in the final container. My reason was to have better visibility of root development and to reduce the risk of overwatering. The transparent solo cup is covered with a second white one to block light.
The medium is Biobizz Light Mix, supplemented with a locally produced Czech mycorrhizal inoculant.The seedling emerged from the soil after approximately 48–72 hours.
IIt’s freakin’ cold in there (18C), so I decided to buy a small heating mat for her — arriving next week.
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1
Week 1. Vegetation
17d ago
1/8
5 cm
Height
20 °C
Day Air Temp
6.2
pH
No Smell
Smell
68 %
Air Humidity
0 °C
Solution Temp
20 °C
Substrate Temp
0.5 liters
Pot Size
20 cm
Lamp Distance
majklsoft Are you like me and always end up with just one sock? I have a whole box full of incomplete pairs.
Well, I finally found a use for them 😄 And I think it’s a pretty neat tip for you guys:
Instead of covering a transparent solo cup with another non-transparent one, just cut the toe off a black sock and slip it over the cup. It blocks light, but compared to using a second cup, it allows better root oxygen exchange. As a bonus, it also helps keep our little ones warm during winter. Cozy AF.
I think the mycorrhizae have already kicked in, as the taproot was visible at the bottom around day 3–4, with secondary roots showing up shortly after. Overall, I’m impressed by how fast the roots are developing. On the other hand, the leafy part is definitely taking its time…
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2
Week 2. Vegetation
17d ago
1/8
8 cm
Height
21 °C
Day Air Temp
6.2
pH
No Smell
Smell
65 %
Air Humidity
0 °C
Solution Temp
18 °C
Substrate Temp
15 liters
Pot Size
0.3 liters
Watering Volume
20 cm
Lamp Distance
majklsoft Day 9 transplant. Didn’t want to risk getting rootbound — roots looked strong enough to hold the root ball together. Transplanted almost dry, then watered thoroughly in the final pot.
I avoided watering the center on purpose and focused on the outer zone to push the roots to search outward into fresh medium. So far, so good.
No signs of transplant shock at all — she immediately started stacking a new node. On day 13, I started very light LST, more like positioning than training. Within 12 hours, the top already corrected itself, which tells me she’s healthy and vigorous.
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Used techniques
Transplantation
Technique
3
Week 3. Vegetation
10d ago
1/7
10 cm
Height
23 °C
Day Air Temp
6.3
pH
Weak
Smell
60 %
Air Humidity
0 °C
Solution Temp
20 °C
Substrate Temp
15 liters
Pot Size
0.5 liters
Watering Volume
40 cm
Lamp Distance
Nutrients 1
Root-Juice
2 mll
majklsoft Week 3 was a bit of a mixed bag. The plant is still quite small for its age, but very compact and dense. Internodes are short (20-25mm) and I already count 8+ side branches, so structurally it looks promising. The main stem is getting thick and I continued with LST to open things up and keep the canopy even.
I’m running 24/0 light, DLI 20–25, 22–24 °C, RH roughly 55–65 %. No signs of light or heat stress so far. I did notice some light Mg deficiency showing on older leaves, so I corrected it with a small Epsom salt dose. New growth looks healthy at the moment.
The plant was transplanted earlier and inoculated with mycorrhizae, which might explain the slower top growth — from what I’ve read, mycorrhiza can temporarily shift energy into the root zone rather than leaves and stems. Right now it’s hard to tell where this is heading: it could stay small, or it could suddenly take off. No signs of preflower yet fortunately. I feel like the next 1–2 weeks will decide everything.
Thanks for stopping by! 💚🌳
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Used techniques
LST
Technique
4
Week 4. Flowering
4d ago
1/5
15 cm
Height
24 °C
Day Air Temp
6.3
pH
Weak
Smell
55 %
Air Humidity
0 °C
Solution Temp
21 °C
Substrate Temp
15 liters
Pot Size
0.6 liters
Watering Volume
40 cm
Lamp Distance
Nutrients 2
Root-Juice
1 mll
Calmag
0.2 mll
majklsoft This week was mainly about fine-tuning watering and reading the plant. The first pistils appeared on d22, so the transition into preflower is clear. The structure is mostly set – 8 side branches plus the main top, a strong framework, and decently thick stem.
The biggest topic was water management and dryback. I had been struggling with slow drying and the so-called “grey zone” for a while. Switching to bottom feeding was a turning point – the plant took in about 1.8 L, water uptake sped up, and the roots clearly started working throughout the entire pot.
In hindsight, the higher VPD (1.3) seems to have been the likely cause of a mild nitrogen toxicity. Faster transpiration probably led to increased nutrient uptake from the soil. Therefore I am lowering VPD back to around 1.0–1.1.
The initial suspicion of a magnesium deficiency now appears to have been a wrong call – the light green speckling also shows up on some younger leaves, while older leaves are not getting worse and are more or less stable. For now, there’s no sign of escalation.
signing out ⛳️🥦