RDWC - Cherry Cola Auto

@Hempel420, Which picture? Canna Mono is also calcium-ammonium nitrate or magnesium sulfate, so it's basically the same thing. The Calmag Agent from Canna is based on the same principle. Currently, I'm using about 130 mg/l of calcium and around 66 mg/l of magnesium, so roughly a 2:1 ratio in the new nutrient solution. In the old one, I had about 170 mg/l of calcium and 64 mg/l of magnesium. I don't think that made a huge difference, and I suspect my Aqua Vega might have gone bad. The canisters are already 3 years old.

@High_And_Hydro crazy, there's a button to add pictures in the comments. Seems like it's not working. So I'll just write it down. With the Canna Mono CaO and MgO in 5 L of RO water: - Calcium: 1.2 ml CaO × 1.28 g/ml = 1.54 g of product. This results in 0.178 g CaO, which is 0.127 g Ca. That gives about 25.5 mg/L Ca. - Magnesium: 0.8 ml MgO × 1.23 g/ml = 0.98 g of product. This results in 0.069 g MgO, which is 0.042 g Mg. That gives about 8.3 mg/L Mg. Conversion per 5 L of nutrient solution: - Calcium nitrate tetrahydrate Ca(NO₃)₂·4H₂O: about 0.75 g - Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate MgSO₄·7H₂O (Epsom salt): about 0.42 g That corresponds to 150 mg and 84 mg per liter.

@High_And_Hydro 3:1 is the magic ratio of Ca:Mg. With that, you're spot on for all fast-growing green plants. But please don't add the individual components in that ratio, because the elemental content of Ca and Mg does not correspond to the total weight.

@Hempel420, Now after the update, the pictures are there. You're about in the middle of my two attempts with your calculation. The Canna Monos are neither CaO nor MgO, you can read that in the safety data sheet. You can guess it from the Calmag agent because it also lists 5.9% nitrogen, which exactly corresponds to the content of calcium ammonium nitrate with 5% nitrate and 0.9% ammonium. I threw the old and the new nutrient solution into Bergrow's calculator and also attached 2 pictures of the old and new nutrient solutions. All values are calculated including my water values since I grow with tap water, which also has about a 2:1 Ca:Mg ratio.

@High_And_Hydro okay, tap water and hydro seems bold to me. But I see you have that under control. Regarding the Canna monos: I know they aren't pure MgO and CaO; I just always mention it because it says CaO 12% and MgO 7% on the front.

@Hempel420, Yes, but coincidentally the ratio of the components roughly corresponds to that of the elemental shares. It's pure coincidence and I'm aware that this usually can't be calculated that way.

@Hempel420, I think it's sweet that you took the time to do the calculations. That's a lot of work to learn. 👍 I've also fallen down the rabbit hole and calculated everything. Unfortunately, I found that fertilizer manufacturers have such extremely different recipes and yet all the plants look good. Liebig's Law of the Minimum fits better there, as long as no single nutrient is excessively present and displaces others. The main thing is that everything is there. What do you think about it?

@High_And_Hydro, for me, it's the leftover chemistry knowledge from my pharmacy studies that drives me with the analyses. I'm stuck with Canna nutrients because there was nothing else qualitative in the 1990s. And the motto is never touch a running system. Regarding the EC values, meaning the amount of nutrients, I stick to my experience. These work for me in my environment, and most people say I give too much. But since I only rarely have tip burn, it can't be too much. I think. Since you also use Canna, my EC from the first week with Flores A&B was just under 2.0 mS. The second week was exactly 2, and in the PK phase, it was just under 2.2 mS. However, one must consider that my base water is only brought to 0.27 mS with Ca and Mg. This allows for more nutrients than tap water, which comes with an EC of 0.7 to 0.8 (that's how it is here). Before I switched to hydro, I saw it differently, but since 1999, there’s the Aqua series, and I grow in hydro… the first purchase was the reverse osmosis system. What I find almost more important than the EC is the pH value. I always stay between 5.4 and 5.6. If it goes above, I add pH-, if it goes below, I add pH+. Many say they go for 5.8 to 6.1, but my best experiences have been under 5.8. Oh, I don't use CO2. That might also be relevant. I just want to grow tasty weed and not invest a fortune in technology. The 5% more yield isn’t worth 2000,- currency to me. Even the pump for water changes is a 3,-€ pump for the cordless screwdriver with a bit of hose on the left and right. Pumping left to empty the tank, pumping right to refill. Works to empty the bilge on the boat, also works for Dröhntannen.

@Hempel420, That's pretty much exactly what I think too. You can definitely raise the EC a bit with Canna, and the pH level always needs to be on point. Your approach to keeping the pH level so "low" is interesting; I have to try that out. As for the costs, we agree on that too. I also use what's available and try to keep the effort as low as possible. What has to be done, has to be done, but there's no need to go overboard.