"Y" Griega+ЭСЛ(32x6)+0,14м2+земля= ХАРВЕСТ :D

oldesse Y Griega Feminized Genotype Indica 20% / Sativa 80% Genetics Amnesia x Kali Mist Flowering 11 - 12 weeks Yield 500 gr/m2 Height up to 350 cm THC 27.12% It grows at an incredible pace, best to use the SCROG method to control the plant. Unusually for a sativa, Y Griega produces a lot of massive and resinous buds. CANNA Research conducted tests and found that the THC level of this strain is 27.12%. This number speaks for itself... The aroma is a classic haze with sweet notes. The effect is an energetic boost that activates relaxation and a new level of awareness of the world. Grow tent 55 cm height 40 cm width 35 cm depth ESL x6 [4x32W 2700K + 32W 4000K + 18W 6500K] Exhaust 180 m3, passive intake Fertilizers Ideal NPK 5/10/10 Ideal is a natural organic fertilizer obtained from the liquid fraction of the natural product of earthworm activity. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, humic acids, growth stimulants, etc., in a plant-available form, i.e., a complete set of nutrients. pH 8.0 - 10.0. Recommended for root and foliar feeding of houseplants, for soaking seeds, and rooting cuttings. Available in 0.5-liter bottles. For root feeding, 2 caps (8-10 ml) of fertilizer is diluted in 1 liter of water. For foliar feeding - spraying leaves, soaking seeds, rooting cuttings - also 1 cap (4-5 ml) in 1 liter of water. Mr. Color Anti-chlorosis "ROST-HUMATE" - an eco-friendly natural product with a nutritional-stimulating effect, which contains a concentrated complex of biologically active substances - humic compounds (humates, fulvates), macro- and microelements (N, P, K, Ca, Mg, Fe, Cu, Zn, Co, Mo, B). The fertilizer helps to bring plants out of a "dormant" state, accelerates the germination of bulbs and seeds, forms a strong root system, ensures lush flowering, prevents the dropping of buds, reduces the ripening time of fruits, increases yield by 20-30%, and improves fruit quality. Baikal EM1 "Baikal EM-1" - a product containing several cultures of beneficial microorganisms. Its basis consists of lactic acid bacteria that suppress putrefactive microflora. In the form of a concentrate, the EM product is not used, as the microorganisms are in a "sleeping state." Favorable conditions, water, and a nutrient medium are needed to "wake them up." Using the accepted technology, an EM product (EM-1) is prepared from the EM concentrate. Properties of the fertilizer "Baikal EM-1": - restoration of soil fertility, improvement of its structure, thereby increasing germination and yield; - ensuring plant resistance to frost and drought; - increases plant resistance to diseases and pests; - transforms organic waste into effective fertilizer in the form of compost; - accelerates plant growth and fruit ripening; - helps reduce nitrate content in vegetables and fruits, binds heavy metal salts; MFC, magnesium sulfate

oldesse Hey everyone! From numbers and pictures, let's move on to prose. So, the little feminized seed was soaked on 30.11.12 and planted in the soil the next day. About a week before that, the box with soil (30% perlite) was watered with humate (1/30) + Baikal (1/1000). On December 2nd, the plant sprouted, in a helmet, I removed it with tweezers. For the veg period, it was decided to use three CFL lamps: the first is 18W 6500K, the second is 32W 4000K, and the third is 32W 2700K. The temperature is between 20-25°C. On December 3rd, the schedule was set to 16/8. No, this isn't reinventing the wheel, I just like to sleep in silence. Watering every 3-4 days until the first drops come out of the drainage holes with settled water at pH 6.7.

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oldesse The first spraying with magnesium sulfate, Mary dropped her green wings in surprise.

oldesse We're starting to feed a little bit, during watering I added 10 ml/l of Humate + 1 ml/l of Baikal.

oldesse From this moment on, I become Mary's personal trainer, let's start training! 💪

oldesse I sprayed with magnesium sulfate, Mary still doesn't like it. But it's useful 😅

oldesse We're feeding, 10 ml/l of Humate + 1 ml/l of Baikal, I'm acidifying with amber acid to pH 6.7.

oldesse I sprayed a solution of Epin + Succinic acid to minimize stress from the change in light schedule.

oldesse Translation to 12/12 'sharp, like a blow with a scoop to the eggs!' © Goblin

oldesse As often happens in the lives of girls - first a workout, then a meal 😄 But it's for a reason, training and stretching the plant is better before watering, so it's softer and more pliable. After the workout, Mary got this menu: MisterColor 1ml/l, Ideal 10ml/l + Baikal 1ml/l.

oldesse I use under-watering as a growth controller. The grow tent is small, and the sativa is big, so that's what I have to do. Watering with plain water. By the way, I think it's better to use less nutrients in the first week of pre-flowering. This way, the plant will have the chance to consume the excess nitrogen in the soil and transition to flowering smoothly.

oldesse We're training, spreading, stretching, then feeding. The ideal is 10 ml/l, MisterColor 1.5 ml/l + Baikal 1 ml/l + amber. Solution pH is 6.9, drainage water pH is 6.7.

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oldesse Mary showed her first whiskers 😄 and it's destined for her to keep her innocence until the end of her days.

oldesse Stretching and watering with pure water. All the large leaves are paired and pinned together, I still haven't cut a single leaf, my hand just won't lift.

oldesse Hey! Initially, the soil was acidic (pH 5.5), before planting the plants I watered everything with humate (pH 9) and that lasted just over a month. Then the troubles started. It looked like a terrible nitrogen overdose, even though I hadn't watered with any nitrogen-heavy fertilizer since the beginning of the cycle. How can that be? I measured the drainage - 5.8. Damn, I thought, and I watered the soil with a humate solution (1/30) + gave a foliar feed with sulfur + calcium DGF + epin + amber, since with lowered pH calcium and magnesium get blocked, and judging by the color of the petioles, possibly phosphorus too. Next watering in a day with plain water.

oldesse Mary is slowly coming to her senses, she shot up in height, a little stress from the flush (soil washing to adjust pH). There's only 10cm left in height, bending her mercilessly. This is what I don't like about grow compact, it messes with the aesthetics of the bush. Such a girl is growing, a green beauty, and you start bending branches, tying leaves... Today I watered with 1 liter of water + 3ml of humate + 4ml of Ideal + 0.1g of MFC + 1ml of Baikal, drainage pH is 6.7.

oldesse Temperature is 27 during the day, 21 at night, humidity around 30%. I switched to a watering regime of water-compote 30%-compote 80% and so on. Just to clarify, 100% compote is 10 ml/l of "Ideal" + 0.3 g/l of MFK + 5 ml of Humate + 1 ml/l of Baikal. The pH of the drainage water is 6.7. The upward growth has noticeably slowed down, now Mary will grow wider and gain weight. Simple girls don't accept weight gain, but my green charge will be happy about it, as will I, I love chubby ones 😄 I don't use pruning; it's a "lazy" method of bush formation, and each cut causes stress, thus prolonging the cycle overall and the veg stage in particular. You can remove shoots that won't get any light, that's true. But still, it's not worth overdoing it, again, stress. Thanks to the ties, I've ensured that absolutely all the tops see the light, and I don't need to cut anything. Each shoot is a potential part of the harvest; why deprive myself of that? If a shoot is under a thick layer of leaves, it needs to be removed but not cut! Defoliation is another "lazy" method that should be excluded from my vocabulary, and if mentioned, only in the context of curse words. Leaves are the plant's solar panels, providing energy for bud growth in the form of sugars. For example, on one internode, two leaves and two shoots grow; if one of the leaves is cut, the bud on that side will be smaller by two or even three times than the one next to the leaf that remained and fed it. I've repeatedly noticed how a bud fattened while being in complete darkness, but the leaf growing next to it was getting light. Also, leaves serve as storage for nutrients that the plant will use in case of starvation. And they immediately take on any overdoses. Add to all this the basic stress from cutting, and you tell me if defoliation is even necessary. I connect all the leaves that cast shade on the buds in pairs with clips and set them aside. At the moment, I have about 30 such pairs. Regarding light, 178W on 0.14 m2 is 0.127W per cm2; the same Cannapedia recommends at least 0.1W per cm2 for CFLs. One shouldn't forget that many low-power CFLs will be more effective than one powerful one due to the angles of light dispersion. Of course, compared to HPS, CFLs have lower "penetration" and lumen-to-watt ratio, but there are huge advantages, especially for grow compactness. Among these advantages is the ability to grow without a cool tube and bring plants almost right up to the lamps, which completely negates the advantages of HPS (without a cool tube) in light output. HPS in a cool tube has its profit. As for the fact that you lack light - you can only unlock the full potential of the plant by creating optimal conditions across all parameters; strong light is important, but temperature, quality of nutrients, humidity, fresh air rich in CO2, and absence of stress (except pre-harvest) are equally important. I have enough light; I will replace the 18W 6500K and 32W 4000K with two 32W 2700K in a few days and continue like this until harvest. This is my first experience with CFLs, and it's only due to the winter off-season of the main box. So far, no complaints; on the contrary, I'm pleasantly surprised by the growth rates.

oldesse From this day on, I'm excluding Baikal from the watering scheme because it makes the plants want to eat more nitrogen. By the way, my watering water is 180ppm, 80% compote - 810ppm, and I plan to reach a thousand closer to harvest. The lowest leaves are starting to yellow and drop off because they don't get light. Yes, there's a smell in the room, and I ventilate it often. At first, I was worried about it leaking into the hallway, but the Chinese front door easily passed the airtightness test, which pleasantly surprised its owner 😄. I'm also using this air freshener, which helps a lot. Now the apartment has a "waterfall smell" 🌊. Overall, everything is peachy. Catch the pics 📸. Powerful sativa. I think it easily reaches its 3.5 meters outdoors, a little tree, damn.. The "medics" warn for a reason, saying not to do veg for more than two weeks and SCROG is your friend. Grisha bent well thanks to "strategic under-watering" - I didn't water for two days - stretched it - watered, and the dried plant bends like rubber. Plus, under-watering itself slows down growth.

oldesse I decided to experiment with aquarium water (45L aquarium), but then changed my mind. Let me explain why: aquarists have a concept called the "nitrogen cycle" or "nitrogen turnover." Ammonia and nitrites are extremely toxic to fish, but if the nitrogen cycle goes correctly, these toxic substances will turn into relatively harmless nitrates before their concentration reaches a dangerous level. It should be noted that the nitrogen cycle will occur in any aquarium, not just in one that uses biological water filtration. However, in a new aquarium, the nitrogen cycle won't start until the aquarium itself or its biological filter "matures" properly. Therefore, fish should not be introduced into the aquarium until this "maturation" is complete. The thing is, in a newly filled aquarium, there are no necessary populations of bacteria involved in the nitrogen cycle, and initially, the level of extremely toxic ammonia will spike, which will promote the development of bacteria that convert ammonia into nitrites (also very toxic). This, in turn, will lead to a sharp increase in nitrite levels. Finally, the time will come when the bacteria that convert nitrites into relatively harmless nitrates will also form a sufficiently large population. That's when the aquarium will finally become safe for fish. This entire process takes several weeks. Nitrates themselves are low in toxicity, but if their concentration is not monitored, the reverse transition from nitrates back to nitrites will begin. So, all these processes can only be controlled if you have special testers, which not many people have. A regular EC or TDS meter will only show a "blurry" concentration along with the readings of the source water. Not long ago, I filled the aquarium with water at 180ppm, and after a week, the water was already at 350ppm. The nitrate content in the aquarium can range from 10 to 400 mg/L, nitrites from 0.05 to 1.5 mg/L, ammonia from 0.01 to 5 mg/L, phosphates from 0.2 to 5 mg/L, and so on. The range is too wide, which is why I won't use it. One of the advantages of aquarium water is the high carbon dioxide content. But personally, I still don't understand the action of "aquarium" bacteria in the substrate and what effect they will have. I might delve into this question a bit later. If I wrote something wrong, throw mangoes at me. I've heard a lot about the benefits and purity of melted snow. But there was one thing that bothered me; I live in an industrial center, and while the ecological situation in the city is improving (as officials say), it still doesn't hold up to any criticism. So I had big doubts about the purity of the snow. A couple of days ago, on my way home from the store, I decided to scoop up a bag of snow. The snow was the most ordinary, lying in a snowdrift by the entrance, but with a slight difference - a barely noticeable brown coating (a gift from the local factories). When I got home, I dumped the snow into a bucket. When it melted and the water temperature approached room temperature, I curiously armed myself with a TDS meter and took a measurement: 23ppm! Excellent! And it's structured too! Now for watering, I will use mixes of tap water and melted snow to maintain overall hardness and prevent pH fluctuations, as the acidity level in distilled water is unstable. I bought some micronutrients and will give them a couple of times for prevention: MR. COLOR ANTI-CHLOROSIS - a complex fertilizer with an extended spectrum of action in the form of a highly concentrated solution of chelated (EDTA) micronutrients: Fe-8.14, Mn-4.2, B-1.6, Cu-0.5, Zn-1.0, Mo-0.1, Co-0.2, grams/liter.

oldesse I didn't even know the volume of the box until today, I estimated it visually - about 6-8 liters. The box is made from available materials: I used a vegetable box from a Soviet refrigerator as a base, then raised the height of the walls with plastic paneling and secured it with tape. It turned out to be a low but wide grow box. I just don't see the point in buying something when I have everything at hand. I just took measurements, it's 150/260/210, which is 8.2 liters. Grisha stopped growing 3cm from the lamp, it's puffing up 😠. Temperature, humidity, watering, and feeding schedule are unchanged. Everything is going according to plan 😄. It's just a shame that the melted water has run out and it's only just warmed up outside; they promise a little snow in a week. But no worries, I have rainwater in reserve 🌧️. You can cut a leaf (but it's better to tie it up!) if it's shading even more leaves or a bud. I also think it's right to cut ALL leaves from the bush 5-7 days before FULL ripening. This is because the stem starts to harden during this period, and the sugars produced by the leaves during photosynthesis hardly reach the buds. At this moment, the buds feed themselves thanks to the small leaves they consist of, and you need to give them maximum light. Moreover, trimming the foliage before harvest will stress the plant and it will fill up with more resin.

oldesse Well, five weeks of flowering are behind us, and just as many ahead. No deviations from the original plan. Although there was a little mishap. Grishka's tops are located 2-4 cm from the lamps, and it just so happened that the ventilation turned off for 30 minutes. As a result, a couple of buds got burned, forgive me, Grishanya, I wasn’t paying attention. I won't let that happen again. The pH in the soil dropped again, the drainage from the last watering was 6.1. Today I watered with a solution of pH 8.5 tds700 - ended up with 6.6 and the same 700ppm. Judging by the stigmas, the pH fluctuations are clearly not to the plant's liking. It is what it is. But everything else is super good! Catch the photos!

oldesse Temperature: 27°C during the day, 20°C at night Humidity: 20% Lighting: CFL 32x6 12600 Lm, of which 5 pcs - 2700K, 1 pc - 6500K I've been feeding with a new scheme for a week now: 0%/ 50%/ 110%, and so on in a loop. Watering every other day with 1.5 liters. The composition is 100% the same as the compote + micro: 10 ml/l "Ideal" + 0.3 g/l MFK + 5 ml Humate + 1 ml/l MC Antichlorosis NPK, TDS, and pH of the 100% compote: 50 | 110 | 167, 750 ppm, pH 8 I continue to wage war with the soil over pH, I’ve stopped using buffered meltwater and now I’m using settled water. But even this doesn’t help - the pH drops by 0.2 units with each watering. Radical measures have been taken - I added 1 g of soda to the water. Soda contains sodium, which in turn displaces potassium, which worries me a bit. I calm myself by saying that I won't add much soda, and there’s a theory that excess potassium isn’t good for flowering. We'll see.

oldesse The humate doesn't provide a stable effect; I’ve been using it throughout the entire cycle, but the soil still restores its pH. As for the ash, it dissolves poorly in water, and the ppm spikes from it, disrupting the NPK ratios... I'm using baking soda for now, and we'll see how it goes. Regarding the Ideal, it contains only 2% humic acids. I mix the humate with the MFK not just for fun - it reduces the likelihood of burning the roots. Plus, I only use 5ml/l, while the manufacturer recommends 50ml/l, but not that often, once every two weeks. Personally, I think it's better to do it more frequently but in smaller doses. I'm in the seventh week of flowering, and the cloudy and amber trichomes are starting to appear. Isn't it a bit early? According to the passport, it should flower for at least 11 weeks, just like all sativas. Maybe the reason is when I started counting the beginning of flowering? I count from the 18th day of 12/12 when I saw the first signs. Or is it again due to pH fluctuations? By the way, after using the baking soda, the pH stopped dropping; it's been stable for the third watering now (6.6-6.9). And after the baking soda, one of the lower branches started to yellow and necrose, specifically ONE. I haven't noticed anything similar on the other buds. The lower leaves are also fine. It's surprising.

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oldesse It's the eighth week of flowering or the eleventh week of 12/12. Judging by the color of the trichomes and the growing stigmas, it's still too early to harvest; I'll keep it for at least another three weeks. Moreover, Grishanya drinks a liter a day (now I have to water every day), which means it's growing. I flushed the soil from sodium; to be honest, I didn't expect such a sharp potassium block. The consequences of a one-time application of baking soda: The flush immediately showed results, and the yellowing isn't progressing. Spring has come, such a surge of goodness and joy in my soul 😊 In the box, there's a bush, the buds are crunchy, and so what, the sadness is leaving, I'll smile as if waking up from a troubled dream, then I'll return.

oldesse Hey! While the outdoor growers are planting their seedlings, the indoor enthusiasts are checking out the trichomes. Overall, they're clear; as soon as they turn cloudy, I'll chop all the leaves, rinse the soil, and keep it on clean water for a week. But that's in the future; for now, I'll raise the TDS of the 100% compost to 1200 ppm (1 g/L of MFC + 10 ml/L "Ideal" + 5 ml/L "Humate"). Watering schedule: water - 50% compost - 100% compost. Soon, really soon, it's harvest time!

oldesse Health to everyone! The trichomes aren't rushing to cloud up, but it's about time. Apparently, the ESLs will extend the cycle by a couple of weeks. Starting today and until the trichomes cloud up, the 100% compote will be: 1 g/L MFK + 5 ml of Humate. The watering regime remains the same. This way, the nitrogen won't be received by the plant anymore (humate doesn't count, there's very little of it), it will finish off the leftovers from the soil. Fortunately, there's no shortage of this element, and the lower leaves are still on the branches. Plus, new stigmas are popping out. How much longer can this go on? The next broadcast after the trichomes cloud up, we're waiting!

oldesse Hey cannabis growers 😄 So, 10 weeks of flowering are behind us. After a few "no-nitrogen" waterings, the trichomes started to cloud up, and now Grishanya is ready for harvest. A couple of days ago, I stripped my green baby down to the bone, thus opening up access to light for her hidden beauties. What to do with the leftovers, I'll decide later; most likely, I'll extract or gift it to the uninitiated with some quality bud. Two days ago, I flushed the soil with rainwater and will keep watering it until victory. I felt it wasn't enough that Grigoria was hungry and naked, so as a stress factor, the light in the box will turn off for 15 minutes every hour, and in the last days of her life, the plant will go into complete darkness and cold (+10). In the end, it will be exactly 11 weeks of flowering, just as the doctor prescribed, or rather, "the medic." That's the deal, folks. See you at the harvest! 🍃

oldesse ResultsI'll say right away - Grishanya was great :) Throughout the cycle, she didn't act too picky, bent nicely in veg thanks to some under-watering, excellent bud-to-leaf ratio, bright sativa effect, and a spicy Haze aroma 😈 About the grow - Gummy fertilizers do the trick, it's not worth overpaying for the brand, sativa fits quite well in the grow tent, lack of ventilation at night isn't critical (though risky), ESLs did their job, baking soda is evil, and don't water with Baikal more than once, paper clips are important 😎 The weight came out to about 100 (+- 20) grams, two medium-packed liter jars. No scales, judge for yourself 😄 I only smoked a couple of times, but what a ride 😇 Two liters of water allowed me to feel the entire psychedelic sativa high 😲 from now on, I'll use less. My eyes filled with blood and even tingled a bit, sometimes it felt like needles were poking them. With such lights, I wouldn't risk going outside, it's all too clear. My brain generates thoughts and builds plots like a conveyor belt, short-term memory goes on vacation, and paranoid thoughts occasionally pop up, reinforced by bodily illusions like tremors and "wandering waves." Sensations and feelings are heightened. Food becomes nectar, movies masterpieces, and music extraterrestrial. Sex with Grigory is amazing, just don't forget you're doing it 😅, laughter can also be out of place. 😎 A smile on my face lasts about 1.5 hours 😄, occasionally turning into laughter over trivial things 😁 An hour after smoking, my body gradually relaxes and the feeling builds for about an hour and a half, giving in to it, I occupied the couch, and a little later - drifted off to the realm of Morpheus. Overall, everything is very positive and psychedelic, and that's exactly what I wanted 👍 Is there really 27% THC? Probably not, though I haven't smoked anything stronger yet. Except for WR, but it has a completely different effect. The taste when smoking "At Grigory's" is like bread with cumin, very unique. Overall, the strain is definitely worth trying. Thanks to everyone who gave advice, criticized, wrote to me, boosted my karma, and thanks for the congratulations 😉😄 It's nice to feel the support of like-minded people and even nicer to receive positive feedback on my efforts, you know 😎 With that, I bow, and I ask you to consider the cycle finished, adiós comrades 😜