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Week 1 TO FEB 8
Jan 20 – put 2 @ each, DG (Double Grape), CD (Chemdog), and 24 (24 Carat) in rapid rooters which were soaked with distilled water and 1l/ml of voodoo juice. Placed in a propagator and in the dark in a warm 75 C spot
Jan 25 – so far I have a DG (with another trying), 2 CD and a 24 germinating. Soaked my 3 gallon fabric pots filled with Pro Mix with 1ml/l od voodoo plus a tbsp./gallon of molasses.457 ppm and 5.9 ph. I have the light at 24 inches and dimmed to 90 w (270 max) – once the seedlings start to thrive I will up the light over 4 days. I also have a 18 hour light schedule that I will increase to 20 hours once they thrive.
Jan 26 – 2 DG germinated in one pot, 2 CD in separate pots although one seedling is not thriving yet, one 24 in one pot. I pulled the other 24 seed I was trying to germinate in the rapid rooter and there was something going on but no tap root. I planted the ungeminated seed in with the other @4 to see what happens. The rapid rooter seemed to wet. All are under humidity domes(plastic cups).
3 gallon pot is 3.5 Pounds completely dry
Jan 31 – all seem to be thriving. I turned the lights to full (over a few days). Took off the humidity domes (measured at 80% humidity in cup). Humidity in tent is only 35%.
Feb 1 – Humidity now 45% but the first DG seems a bit dry looking so I backed the light off to about 75%
Feb 7 - both CD seem stunted. one has some grayish material growing at the point of growth on top of the plant and the other has weird shaped leaves. [TO MUCH LIGHT TO SOON. I SHOULD HAVE WENT WITH THE PPSD RECOMMENDATIONS UNTIL THEY ARE ESTABLISHED AND THEN TURN UP THE LIGHT ONCE THEY HAVE A GOOD START. I DID HAVE THIS LIGHT VERY CLOSE WHILE MY LAST GROW WHILE IN LATE FLOWERING WITH MUCH FROST AND NO SIGNDS OF LIGHT BURN]
I started 3 new 24 seeds in quick starters. I will see how the others are doing while these germinate.
Week 2 - Feb 8 - 14
Feb 8 both The Chemdoging are not right. One has a brown-ish portion at the developing node. The other has a weird pattern to its leaves. They both seem a little sickly so I started to germinate three more to 24s To replace them.
I could have been over watering (see "The strange yellow and red growth in this picture has been caused by giving the plant too much water, too often. Over-watering can often causes what appears to be nutrient deficiencies in young plants! Older plants tend to just droop, but especially seedlings can have really odd reactions to root problems." picture.
The only strange thing is I started both DGs In uncompacted soil One came in with a healthy green the other, which is actually grown larger than the first DG, in the other came in with a yellowish green.
The rapid rooters were quite saturated and, with the exception of the DG pot, the pots were flooded first and left for a day before the seedlings were put in (which also compacted the medium - poor for root expansion). The D pot (5 gallon for 2 plants) was a combination of the old compressed and saturated 3 gallon pot and fresh dry pro mix mixed in and fluffed up - these plants are further ahead in their development.
Feb 12 - put 2 germinated 24s intro one 3 gallon pot. watered with voodoo only. I also put a small handful of potting soil at the bottoms of the holes they were placed into - I did this in a past grow and it seemed to help the rapid rooter nutes. I am hoping to avoid the seeding turning pale green in their first 2 weeks. I also planted these in non-compacted soil - I will compare these to the single 24 that was started in compacted soil. [I NOTICED THAT BOTH NEW 24 SEEDLINGS HAD SOME BURN ON THEIR 1ST LEAVES – TO MUCH LIGHT. IT STUNTED ONE (WHICH I PULLED) BUT, INTERESTINGLY, THE OTHER SURVIVED AND IS THE MOST VIBRANT AS OF MARCH 30]
ALSO, THE NEW 24, I INCREASED THE NUTES BY 25% EACH WATERING AND NO LOCKOUT OR NUTE BURN – I WILL USE THIS NEXT GROW]
Week 3 - Feb 15 - 21
I have been trying to keep to a ppm schedule:
Seedlings: 100-250 (nutrients aren't needed here, hence there's not a lot of particles needed)
First Half of Vegging Cycle: 300-400 (this is usually after you transplant, which still doesn't require many nutrients)
Second Half of Vegging: 450-700 (you'll start giving your plants more nutrients at this stage)
First Half of Flowering: 750-950 (your plants will be eating more as they grow, so they'll be taking in more nutrients)
Second Half of Flowering: 1000-1600 (this is when your plant's eating the most, especially if you give it additives)
End of Flower, Entering Harvest: As close to 0 as possible (this is when you'll be flushing your plants, so you don't want there to be a lot of particles leftover)
My tap water was about 400 ppm so I purchased 5 gallons of RO water. I had to put 5 ml of ph down to bring it to 5.9. That with the 0.25 ml/l of nutes brought it a bit high to 446 ppm. The ph as 5.9. The watering on Feb. 11 was with tap water, much ph down, 0.1625 ml/l of the 3 nutes as well as a tbsp of Epson salts and 0.75 of AN Sensi-Cal-Mag which resulted in a high 870 ppm. I actually had to water the solution down to these amounts as the ppm was way to high. The ph was 6.1
Feb 18 - The large DG has burnt curled up edges and the 24 seedlings were getting light burn on the little leaves. I dimmed my light to 50%, which I believe would be about 232 Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) at the centre and about 115 at the 3 foot mark where I now have the seedlings. I watered Feb 19 with a slightly stronger nute mix but after bubbling the solution overnight the ppm dropped 442 to 409 so some of the nutes must have evaporated off. I positioned the light so it is not directly over the seedlings. After one day they looked less droopy and healthier. The large DG got some bad burns on the leaf tips but the newest growth does not show signs of burn - I will keep the light dimmed until the seedlings take off. They have developed a new set of leaves
Feb 19 - watered with a liter each. the DG are 3.5 and 2.75 and the CD is 2.5 inches tall at watering. They seem to be developing.
Feb 20 - The smaller 24 seedling doesn't seem to be developing and the burnt DG's newest growth is not burnt at the tips. I raised the light to 30" and will see what that does tomorrow.
ght to 30" and will see what that does tomorrow.🙏
Week 4 - Feb 22 - 28
Feb 22 - Today I turn the light to 75% and will bring let them grow into it from 30 inches to 24 inches over the next several days.
Feb 25 - The DG are growing an inch a day. it will be week 2 for the late 24s: I don't think the small one will survive as its just not growing. Leaves are coming out very slowly. The larger is the healthiest in this grow, which I attribute to less light (biggest issue, next grow I will dim it fully to 33% while they are seedlings.), I put a handful of potting soil in the hole when I planted the rapid rooter, and the medium was fully fluffed when I planted so no soil compression. I'm assuming the high light stunted the smaller 24, possibly just a bit weaker genetics (?). I gave the younger 24s a bit over a liter with 0.125 ml/l for micro, grow, and bloom and 1 ml/l each of voodoo and b52 (same as week 2 for the rest)
Feb 26. The DG and the older 24 looked droopy this morning. I weighed the pots and still have more than a lite of water in each-so its not that. I back off on the light to 50% and we’ll see if that helps the group. I started LST on the DGs.
Week 5 – FEB 29 – MARCH 6
Feb 29 . They all seem to be growing. Drop the light 24 inches and increase the intensity to about 80%. I Will pump it up 10% today. They should start to flower and then grow into the 24 inch light to 18 inches. I will increase the newts more drastically with the newer 24 just to see what they’ll take. I’ll keep an eye on them for nute burn.
WEEK 6 – MARCH 7 - 13
week 6 for all but the younger 24 (which is the only one that is not flowering). I'm getting frost on the DG. I sacrificed the weaker DG- it got light burn and never recovered. it was growing but sickly. . I now have a light meter and they are all getting the proper PPFD. I am increasing the nutes faster in the young 24 and it seems to be taking it. I am trying to keep an eye on my ppm. So far no signs of lock out or nute burn - I will increase the levels quicker next grow.
WEEK 7 - March 14 - 20
I now have a good light meter so I rearranged the parts provide light efficiency trying to get close to PPFD for the age of each plant. ALL HAVE HAD CALCIUM MAG DEFICIENTCIES. I NEED TO ADD CALMAG TO MY RO WATER AND KEEP ADDING MORE THROUGHOUT THE GROW.
WEEK 8 - March 21 – 27
m 22 - The young 24 always seems a bit droopy claw so I flushed her with 2 gallons of ph 6.2 and then fed her with 3 liters of water with nute - lets see how this works. [I DON’T THINK I SHOULD HAVE FLUSHED WITH JUST PH-ED WATER – IN THE FUTURE IF I FLUSH I WILL FLUSH WITH NUTES.] Interestingly that, although the ppm of the flush water about 400 the run off (at 6.4 ph) was over 2000 ppm (some could be from salts that accumulated in the drain trays but not that much) which, I believe, would be indicative of salt build up. I have fed this one more nutes more quickly and never had a substantial run off before. I watered with 763 ppm with nutes and got 900 ppm at 6.7 ph. so still a bit of salt run off. If this works I will flush the rest next watering.
M 23 – the 24 took it very well so I flushed the rest with ph 6.3 (to take the cal mag). I then watered with nutes. The CD bush yellowed and they are all showing signs of a cal mag deficiency.
WEEK 9 MARCH 28 – APRIL 4
The younger 24 is vibrant, she took the flush and nutes well. The CD bush, however, has turned green/yellow. It looks like a nitrogen deficiency although she has been getting the same amount as the rest (?). Her flowers are starting to fill out and she is still growing vertically. The other CD is starting to frost up. The DG just keeps getting frosty and thick. CalMag deficiency on all but the younger 24 so next grow I will add earlier.