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The new photos are 4 days older. the one in center is the phenotype I've been waiting for. I hope she's strong, cause I'll "house that ho" or in other words, make a mother out of her, lol.
Additionally, one of the girls died and i popped another seed. I recently topped two of them, and the third is at least a week off. And I re-potted them as well.
They went into an inert soil, no nutrients at all. I am gradually working them into a living soil. I am a bit nervous, as I have never grown organically, and so any comments or suggestions are welcome.
And, I top dressed one table spoon alfalfa meal and one tablespoon neem seed meal tickled into the top inch of soil.
I use Humic Acid and Seaweed in every Watering......
Iam using the @GreenBuzzLiquids Productline
and iam using 5ml/l Humic acid in the beginning and later 2ml/l
Seaweed ( called Growzyme ) 2ml per l of water
Its abig difference in growth and development since Ima using those Beneficals// fertiliserline
The nutrient section of the journal just doesn't jive with organic growing. I applied a foliar preparation of triacontanol and amino acids. The prep. was 4 parts per million. I wanted to start low as I am searching for a minimum effective dose to really make these ladies grow. I watered in some natural sugars to breath life to my living soil. I am currently on the hunt for mulching.
This week went by without incident. I gave the ladies a haircut, and begun training them in my usual grow shape. By the time I harvest the Monster-cropped BD, these girls will be ready to flip. In something like 3-4 weeks.
I transplanted into 3 gallon pots. I buffered a layer between the jet fuel and the old soil.
So, this is the first time I've gradually increased pot size as I feel they need it, instead of planting seedling straight into pots as one does with autos. How long should these girls stay in there pots before they move into 3 gals?
Here are some indicators that your plant is ready for a new container:
Number of leaves: Young plants sowed in small containers are usually ready to be transplanted after they’ve sprouted 4-5 sets of leaves (this may vary from strain to strain).
Root development: Check the drainage holes at the bottom of the container—a plant should have a healthy and visibly white root system. Any discoloration or darkening may indicate that the plant has become rootbound, and a transplant should take place immediately.
End of the vegetative stage: Many growers opt to transplant to a finishing pot in the final two weeks of vegetative growth before a plant transitions into the flowering phase. At this point, a plant will explode both in size and volume and will require a substantial amount of space for root development.
Hopefully, I answered your question and remember Happy Growing and Free your mind one puff at a time.
things are good. girls look great. just water from here on out. Transplanted them into 3 gal pots over the weekend. I puut a buffer layer between the old and new soils. The are very happy in their new homes.
What could these spots be? Soil PH is 6.62, I'm not over-feeding or watering. It appears on newr growth. This is the only plant and i only see two spots. The chlorosis only seems to be in between veins...
The GSCE will be transplanted into 5 gallon pot this weekend. Two weeks before the flip. I'm excited to see the colors these girls can put out. Just plain ol' water for the organic ladies.
I transplanted them into 5 gal pots, and we'll wait about ten days for the flip
This is my first scrog. I wont be able to take photos as I once could without the scrog. I think I'm running into calcium or magnesium issues. I bought roots cal/mag since i'm going without the salt-based nutrients.
🙏This is my first SCROG and I was curious once these screens are set, moving the pots is over. This makes diagnosing issues more difficult. What tips and tricks do you growmies have to better deal with this issue?🙏
Selfie stick, image stabilization and hd recording. Easy to check top, sides, bottom and center from the bottom sections of the plants, then just watch the video that you slowly recorded.
defoliated, dealing with a bit of a calcium issue. my pots are a tad on the alkaline side, need to drip half a point. will water and feed 6.0 till it adjusts
hey, I would advise maybe trying to avoid adding any nutrients until much later in the grow cycle. ESPECIALLY since you are using soil. Even in a very basic soil, there is enough nutrients for about the first month of growth. I would suggest looking into the bookTeaming with Microbes, or just searching more on creating a soil food web, rather than trying to "feed" your plants. "feeding" is for hydroponics/synthetic grows, whereas in a natural soil grow (if that is what you are seeking), one should try to build an ecosystem where microbial life thrives, and breaks down nutrients in a usable form for the plant, at exactly when the plant needs it. If these are photoperiods, try to dial in your next container size with ingredients that aren't too hot, and look into amendments that soil life will break down naturally over time. If these are autoflowers, they need much less nutrients than photoperiods in general, so a basic organic soil mix with few amendments, great drainage, and an area for soil life to thrive, the plants will do exactly what they were meant to :) Peace and good luck
@Tango_Hotel_Charlie, I personally haven't used Langbeinite, and my only concern is the extremely high P be careful not to over do it. Honestly, I think a quality WELL COMPOSTED topdressing of some kind of earth worm casting/manure mix. Much of my experience is with native plants, not cannabis, but for my flowering topdressing I will add a mix with nutrients already broken down in available form (composted). For the Langbeinite to be useful you would need to have your soil microbiology in check (if using anything above standard potting soil, you should have the requirements for good soil life) since the microbes/bacteria/fungus are actually breaking down the Langbeinite (or other organic slow release amendment) into a plant-usable form over the course of weeks or months (depending on the topdress). If there is nothing in the soil to eat and break down the amendments first, it will be useless and end up burning your plants! The simplest thing to do would be to add fresh compost/woodchips as a topdressing, with very minimal amounts of other inputs. Many growers constantly try to do MORE for their plants, ending up with an overabundance of organic matter in the soil, burning their plants alive! Trust me, if the ingredients are there, the roots will search for and find it at exactly the time they need it.
Ok thank u for listening to my rant this is the first comment i responded to after a wake and bake ;)
Good luck rest of way :D
@@GreenGrows,
Hey I agree! I'm just giving straight water from here for awhile. What is your opinion ion Langbeinite in the living soil mix? Or is it too high in potassium, and would be better top dressed in bloom?
I seen the foiliar spray question. Everybody has a different way the best combination I have found is (FF) Big Bloom at 10ml/Gal, 1 tsp/Gal Epsom salt 2ml/Gal superthrive (this has seaweed extract) and last is optional but I use 1ml/Gal silicate ( this puts a force field around you plant for heat stress mold fungus and it streanghtens the cell walls) I give a light spray about 10 min after lights on and a moderate spray after any training or pruning. Hope this helps.
@Tango_Hotel_Charlie, lol I meant BUDS sorry man but ik what your saying about the fox farms soil the pheno run I have going right now they are in nursery pots in ocean forest and I’ve seen a few nats but nothing major I recently switched to coco and I love it. It’s sooo much easier to judge essentials and watering. I’m also using Mega Crop as my base and general feed it does wonders too I swear I’ll be watching this grow I want to see the outcome
@Greatgrowman,
ive never had any pests once! of course, everyone who buys foxfarm soils has had fungus gnats infestations, but who doesnt? gnatrol every feeding keeps them at bay
Tango_Hotel_Charlie
