8 girls , 99 problems. I need a coco veterans to help!

This may be pH in rootzone or maybe unprocessed coco coir? Coco is not special nor magical. You simply treat it as a soilless medium. Love the data tracking for nutes -- this will help you shorten the learning curve. As far as nute formula, this will be easily to get into a range that definitely does not cause what you see. I treat coco the exact same way i treated previous soilles media using promix and perlite. I have the exact same results, give or take fog of war of numerous variables that can change/fluctuate from grow to grow, but several years of each for a sample, too. First, you wanta 2:1 ratio of coco:perlite... doesn't have to be perlite, per se, but soem drainage amendment. According to bugbee's research, vermiculite is the better option, for example. It won't make a difference you can notice without precise measurement and tracking, though. So.. not so important. price and convenience easily trumps this. 70/30 prepackaged stuff is close enough. 2:1 doesn't have to be exact but it should be relatively close. 1-1-2 NPK // 4-2-1 K-Ca-Mg You are nearly there already. You probaly want a bit more K and a bit more N. Sulfur is usually recommended around 100ppm, but 80 may be fine too.. -- if you see red streaks in stems or chlorosis occuring from petiole out on leaf, that's a sign of Low-s. shoot for 120-130 N and 180-200 K. I don't think any of these changes wil fix what you see, becaue what you see is not caused by the nutrients. Your pH may be off, or you may have gotten a half-assed batch of coco coir. If not properly washed and properly buffered, it can leach Ca++ from your nutes and releaste Na+ and K+ et al... throwing off your carefully planned formula and possibly making plants sickly. Those jiffy pucks are often too acidic, too. I don't know if this is pH related or poorly buffered coco. With each, all you can do is wait. Easy to measure pH of runoff -- do note that runoff is not exactly what exists in your rootzone, but if it is WAY off, the substrate is likely off too, butmaybe not as far as what your ph meter reads for runoff. Correct it as best you can, if so... if acidic, ph-up your fertilizer to try to counter-balance it and vice versa if too alkaline. -- more likely going to be acidic in this case. The formula you are using won't cause this sort of twisting, but i'd still recommend the changes i suggested. The formula i have suggested works for 95% of any plants i've grown. Your local variables will impact this a bit -- e.g. if you operate at a higher or lower VPD, you maay need a lower or higher overall concentration of the above ratios, respectively. This is due to rate at which your plants drink compared to mine. I have a relatively high VPD. I have a slightly lower overal concentration than other soilless growers with lower operating VPD. I'm aroudn 1.2EC. With a lower VPD i'd need closer to 1.3-1.5EC. BUT, the ratios of the nutes are the same. The plant is proportionally made out of the same building blocks over time... some thigns do change in flower, but nothing like the urban myths (anecdotes) you often hear. Some people will say it needs little to no nitrogen in flower, and that is objectively false. I wouldn't drop it more than 10% in flower, and only if i saw some n-tox creeping in. This formula will be close enough that any symptoms you see encounter willbe slowly progressing and minor. Which means smaal adjustments needed to fix it as well as the fact that the symptoms will be clear and easily diagnosable vs a clusterfuck of symptoms you often see with other formulas. just in case -- proper fertigation habits: Fertigate every irrigation with 10% runoff. Wait for top layer to dry. Repeat. Simple. Afte roots are well established and approaching flower or in flower, you can consider more frequent fertigation -- a bit sooner than the top layer drying/changing colors. you'll want a minimum 25-33% weight loss from the pot before fertigating again in this context. I don't recommend doing this from an early vege stage because the more pronounced wet-dry cycle forces roots to grow out more.. i'm sure there's some break-even point that could be found. No idea how long it is best to wait before increasing fertigation frequency (relative to how much the plant has drunk, not the time between) all you are doing is maintaining a consistent level of nutes in the substrate. it will be a bit different than what you feed, but the 10% runoff will prevent any buildup over time. The average may be a bit higher than what you feed. What matters is that it is consistent. Consistency makes for easy diagnosis and adjustment. the cause and effect will be clear and repeatable in this context with less fog of war.