How close.can you put led light to plants.

Here is a short video, about light burn with modern LED lights: https :// www.youtube.com/shorts/93nTiZAm7M4

What burns your leafs, is the heat radiation for the lamp, which has a wavelenght of 2-5 nanometres. The visible light between 0.4 and 0.7 nanometres are useful for the plants. The heat from your board, can burn your leafs within 5 to ten centimetres. If you are more than 15 centimetres away from any leaf, there is no danger. 15 centimetres is about half the lenght of your kings foot. Happy growing! FraFra

your light puts out about 730 umol/s according to it's listed efficacy and watts - they aren't over-promising, so probably legit specifications. This amount of light relative to 1m^2 is your PPFD. You then need to reference PPFD with hours of light with a Daily Light Integral table. they are easy to find. You want 35-40 DLI for ambient co2 "at diode" given typical hanging distances. You can use % of 35-40 DLI to guide your dimming of the light relative to size of your growing area. Let's say you have your light at 100% and coving .5m^2 on an 18/6 light cycle. That means your ppfd at 100% power is 1460, which is insanely high, fwiw. Bwahah over 18 hoours that is 94.6 DLI. 40 / 94.6 x 100% = so about 40% would be needed in that context. Same process.. same math.. you got 730umol/s at 100%... divide by your area covered in meter-squared to get your PPFD. Reference DLI table. set dimming % to your proportional intensity that gets you to 35-40 DLI. From there you still need minor adjustments because local variables are different than someone else's garden. Unlike waht vipar spectra suggests, i'd stick to 16-18" when you can. If you want to lower it and drop power for small plants, that's a good idea too. The taller the plants (growth you care about), the more you should increase hanging distance toward "normal" and power up. this improves light intensity at levels below canopy (why? inverse square law). 40 DLI will be too much for ambient CO2, but will be within 5-10% most of the time. The photone app will not be accurate, but it iwll be precise.. meaning proportional intensity can be used as a tool. Just don't trust it if it says 40 or 50 dli, becasue that may be wrong due to conversion error. the phone only measures lux and converts.. if it doesn't use a proper SFD to facilitate that conversion, which requires a measurement your camera lense cannot do, it could be way off. Luckily grow lights are quite similar nowadays as far as light characteristics, so the app should be within 10-15% i'd guess. but whether otyu use lux direclty or "dli" it's the same thing. proportional intensity will be good info and can be used to fine-tunen hanging distance and power -- i.e. what % of light is at edges and corners compared to central areas.. this will be 1:1 directly proportional to actual umol/s reading in that spot. if it is 1/2 lux or "supposed DLI" (which is not measured in 1 location to begin with) at edges compared to middle, then umol/s in that area will be 1/2 too.

Hmmm. Okay. So the closer your light is. The lower the surface area ppfd/par the surface will have will be much less 45cm.. using a phototone app a seedling will be happy with 15-20k lux as she moves up u can up the DLI. 35-50 max will be the boundaries DLI wise throughout your grow. Using a simple phototone app and DLi cal will give you your

I sometimes was managing to escape 5-10 cm away, but if smallest mistake in ph , feed, humidity, temps - they burn, bleaching, calcium rusty spots and you loose quater if not half of potencial best run. 50 cm is very good, 40 last cut off, less is danger zone. I would call it that way. I grow under Mars Hydro, very similar brands, dont think they are far by performance from each orther too.