Chat
RecommendedRecommended

measuring ppfd

Airborne
Airbornestarted grow question 12 days ago
what do you ppl use to measure ppfd ?
Solved
like
001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 12 days ago
PAR -- photosynthetic active radiation or something akin to that, lol.. the range of electromagnetic radiation that reacts with chlorophyl in the plants... PPF -- Photosynthetic photon flux -- umol/s of PAR radiation measured at a single location. This is photons per second of PAR light, if those words make more sense. PPFD -- this is how much PPF you average relative to 1m^2. This makes comparing DLI to varying sized gardens apples to apples. DLI is always teh same DLI as far as total number of photons applied to the canopy per day. "rate x tme per area" is what this represents. DLI is what matters. You calculate PPFD and then reference it with hours of operation on a Daily Light Integral table to see what DLI results. 35 dli is 35 dli. It will result in the same growth regardless of any common sense range of operating hours for grow lights, all other factors remaining the same -- for autos. vege, or flower, doesn't matter You measure PPF at several evenly distributed points accross entire canopy and the average gives you PPFD. PPFD is about light per second over an area, not just photons per second nor 1 point of measurement. A quantum meter is the only way to properly measure it. It costs around 500 USD. Apogee instruments, bugbee's company, sells one. There are phone apps that convert lux to PPF and probably mislabels it PPFD, unless it tells you to take many measurements and it averages it out for you. The drawback here is that due to things like varying CCT, the conversion of klux to PPF is not a one-size-fits all factor. The good news is that nowadays, most growlights are within 10-15% of each other in regard to that fancy curve you see showing the amplitude of various wavelenghts the light produces -- i.e. you usually see 2 spikes in the blue and red regions. So, those phone apps are at best +/- 10%. Knowing exact PPFD is not super important. You can guesstimate this from the spec sheet of the light and the size of your grow area (umol/s divided by area in meters-squared will give you a rough estimate of PPFD -- in reality this will be a bit lower, but with very similar hanging distnaces and other variables, it's stil very useful). So, you attempt to start in a 35-40 DLI range (*ambient co2 conditions) and no matter what instrument you used to measure PPFD and resulting DLI, you still have to observe and adjust to the plant's resulting growth. Your ambient co2 is different, your climate is different, therefore you maximum DLI you can give will be different from anyone else -- although very similar in most cases.. still requires trial and error. internode length is your guide... if the stem between two nodes grows too long, you need more light.. if that internode remains too short, you need less light. Simple as that. Quick guesstimate using spec sheet... If it is accurate.. umol/s value divided by your tent's area in meters-squared. This gives a quasi PPFD to reference on a DLI table. Shoot for 40 DLI, because you lose some to walls, even if 90% reflective, and some of it misses the plant, etc etc... But due to consistency in typical hanging distances, this works well across most grow lights. Since it is only meant to get you close to where it needs to be, no matter what you have to engage in some trial and error. If you can, choose hanging distance based on evenness of light across canopy (even a klux meter or those free phone apps are good enough for this -- simply compare proportinal intensity from center to edges). Then, use dimmer knob to adjust intensity as needed based on the resulting growth patterns. If your dimmer options aren't sufficient, hours of operations are 1:1 proportional and a viable option as long as you dont break any rules regarding photoperiods (vege vs bloom requirements of dark cycle length etc). The last option should be adjusting the height, because this should be otpimized for best coverage wall-to-wall without sacrificing overall PPFD. other caveat -- although more wasteful with electricity, more power and further away will give better light penetration (inverse square law applies to how light spreads out from the source, not my own extrapolation.. a mathematica certainty) End of chat AI, BWAHAHAHA... just kidding. some mope here thinks knowing technical details can only come from chat AI instead of actually learning something on your own. Everything i said here can be referenced and verified. No bro-science of bullshit extrapolations included.
3 likes
Complain
Selected By The Grower
m0use
m0useanswered grow question 12 days ago
I borrowed a quantum par senor from a buddy. https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/photobio-advanced-quantum-par-meter/lgbqm2 this was the one, it worked out well. If you don't have one, and can't rent one, don't need to buy one. they are crazy expensive. There are one Lux meters that can give you a ballpark range. or base it off of the plants reaction to the light. little to no internode growth in the pants to much light, to much, to little. your lights manufacture should also have some PPFD maps of your light if they are any good of a brand. One note on the apps. they are garbage unless they are calibrated right and you need a par sensor to calibrate em. They will give you good consistant readings they just won't be accurate as a camera lens is not a par sensor, and it varies from device to device. so always use the same device with the same paper as a filter for the lens and go by what the plants say and match that number on the app. but don't take the apps number as a good reading. I tried an Ipad and two Iphones and they where all off. as much as 800PPFD by the photon app.
1 like
Complain
Stork
Storkanswered grow question 12 days ago
First we do push ups then we download ppfd meter app 🍻😅
1 like
Complain