<span class="link_user">@Larimar_Pectolite</span>, Zero parallel, coinciding, or spare accounts. One account is plenty.
You on the other hand have several accounts with hastily formulated and incomplete diaries with which you ask a multitude of unrelated, rhetorical questions as part of some desperate broader set of attention-seeking and hypocritical behaviours. You are throwing rocks from a glass house.
Must add some perlite or vermiculite for a more ideal gas:water mixture, but this product is consistent and dependable for soilless grows. Recommend HP or BX over coco coir any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
First two zoaps are down. The Two larger ones are on the way. A little variance in structure, but otherwise consistent.
- Forsty nugs
- Easy trim / nice nugs
Update -- Added some dried buds from the 2 plants harvested several days later. These are really nice golfball nugs. I break down larger colas for a similar drying time, so there aren't any e-peen buds to show.
These Zoaps turned out awesome. I am really impressed with MSNL. They've restored a little of my faith in breeders. They are vigorous plants that don't just look good in pictures, but smoke well and yield well. They aren't inbred into oblivion.
Why do you insist on giving people bad advice and talking nonsense?The evidence of this is simple to find.Go and look at what advanced nutrients organic base grow and bloom food has in it then go and look at what the biobizz alternative has in it and tellk me your arent talking nonsense,again,and again.
@kedI1, This kedl1 guy is clearly making a script to generate profiles and make automated comments. Ther's another similarly named kedl12-something or other conversing with each other in gibberish.
replying to some no-diary profile that was somebody's alternate account so they could go around and shit on people's diaries and profiles -- "view activity" and it's an endless list of trolling from @oldskoolkool
These people have no integrity. They have no spine. Weak.
@00110001001001111O, Right, that explains your comment chain...if you're projecting again. You come to someone else's profile (someone who hates you and regularly refers to you as that 0101 clown all over the site, just to try to attack me....lmao). Keep in mind, this dude's entire problem with me was that he thought I was an alt for you, because I was being too rude when calling him out. There is a lot to unpack there, try fitting that into your mid-filled word document.
If I wanted to feel superior to you, I would say stuff like...wow, I find it impressive how disliked you are on this site by growers of all ages, all skills, and all flavors... You are hands down the most hated account, the most called out account, and the most 'dunked' on account on GD. If I really wanted to put you down with no purpose, I'd say things like wow you prolly beat women since you rep women beaters in your genetics! Or that the only non-wife-beaters in your genetics are whitelabel/STS s1 garbage mids.
Turn around and go circlejerk yourself elsewhere, with your high school physics understanding and regurgitated copy and pasted answers to every question on this site. I'm sure there are some new growers on the site who haven't yet found out how clueless you are, who will give you the time of day.
lowkey a simpleton/helmet-bearer...
Quotes by 00110001001001111O:
" The definition of 'freely' flowing means a sugar that flows 100% according to the sectionality of the vascular tissue, only from gated source tissue, only to gated sink tissues, 100% reliant on diurnal cycles"
"Humans eating anything below 8.0 pH gives them cancer"
"Not eating sugar cures cancer"
keep repping wife beaters, simpleton
So you weren't telling me DLI is important. Wouldn’t you want to know the DLI so you drive your lights to the fullest while making sure that by arbitrarily you don’t hang you lights too close, hence the the measuring tape. I am just trying to get acquainted with my new lights as I never was able to play with power. Higher lower more less. So i will move the light around at different powers so i know where I should be at any one time during the grow.
Yes, DLI is important, but it is in the end just a measurement. A lot more goes into how much a plant can handle per 24 hours. Wheter you took a PPE or lux reading, you could use that to ensure lights are at the same intensity at various points across canopy. This is useful.
Knowing how to calculate DLI doesn't tell you what the maximum you can provide is. That comes through trail and error. It can put you in a close vicinity of "maximum". In ambient CO2, 35-40 DLI is a good starting point, then you have to observe and adjust based on growth patterns.
Seasonal variations in temp/rh will result in different 'max DLI' that you can provide.
You can get to that same place without a DLI or Klux measurment. Observe and adjusting until growth pattern is ideal. Same thing, potentially longer path to get there.
Relative to the topc of light penetration, it's irrelevant. The DLI at canopy will be your 'max' DLI that you found through trial and error. From there it's just a matter of what proportion you can measure inside the canopy to judge penetration, right? Again, can do this with klux too. The measurement at top in center is "100%" and everything other measurement is relative to that value.
Klux does not easily convert to DLI, but it is 1:1 proportional. If DLI increases 10%, Klux value increases 10% too.
If you want to be wasteful, higher and more power (same DLI at canopy) will provide better penetration than lower and less power. This is a mathematical certainty and not an opinion. I am not saying it is the better way to go, as that is more complicated. 14-20" for bar style... 18-24" for QB... In most cases, your best distance will be somehwere in this range.
In my opinion, you start with geometry and evenness of coverage to dictate hanging distance. As long as you have an appropriately powered light, it should end there. What results in best overall average ppe/klux readings across canopy.. with a minimized difference from central reading to edges/corners. At that point it's just a matter of matching watts to hours of operation to provide appropriate DLI.
Wow that’s a lot to absorb. lol.
I have a tremendous amount of experience with transplanting plants. Worked in landscaping for many years and have transplanted thousands of shrubs, trees annuals and perennials. All in the state of Florida where everything grows without much effort. All in dirt substrates.
Always have transplanted my photo’s in the past when using soil and never a problem with direct sowing auto’s in soil either. It’s the coco.
Got smart and am using Canna coco coir A&B and will add pk 13/14 during flower. I figured that I would top water through the coco every 10 days or so and add some beneficial microbes at the same time.
Will be adding an extra oxygen to the water resivoir via aquarium air pump and stones.
Thanks for taking the time for the book you wrote. Lots of good stuff in there. There is probably a unseen message in all this and that is don’t start your little girls in final pots if it’s coco. Start small and work up in a substrate with available natural nutrients.
The KISS principle.
Keep it simple stupid.
Thanks.
@sanibelisi, coco isn't magic. It has some slightly different characteristics compared to other solid mediums. You should have an appropriately sized put regardless of medium. Also, transplants outside are much more stressful because it involveds damaging roots - unless it's a potted plant outside, then it is not stressful to plop it into a hole in the ground or a larger pot. No damage is being done as long as you don't molest the rootball or cut through roots (real 'transplants' outside).
Fertilizer is fertilizer. Whatever comes out to a proper balanced diet is going to work well, relative to life stage. Some molecules will deliver it more effectively than others, but most of that is common knowledge that any professional manufacturer should know already. Plants are more alike than different - flowering, soft-stemmed plants are very similar and there is a ton of carryover that's far better knowledge than the anecdotal shit that inundates the marijuana growing community.
I've taken enough chemisty and biology to avoid some but not all the magic. "Gassing off chlorophyl" issone i've been focusing on lately. Total fucking nonsense if someone thinks a molecules with a 160-180C melting point is just gassing off easily in a mater of a few weeks of curing, and water evaporating would have no effect on that - it repels it and is an endothermic reaction, meaning it absorbs energy from the sorrondings, which would do the opposite of helping gas off chlorophy A or B. A little chemisty knowledge shoots holes in that unverified bullshit fairly easily.
cocoforcannabis.com - and this is good info for all soilless methods, because coco coir is not magic. It simply retains water, and less of it compared to better alternatives. sphagnum peat moss is a better base and can have the same aeration/drainage properties as coco if amended properly. Even coco needs 33% perlite or similar for a proper gast:water mixture per volume.
coco is just a fuck up waiting to happen though. you get one batch of improperly buffered coco and you lose an entire crop or have a huge delay of sickly plants for a month or more. people want their esoteric methods and products to be unique, special and superior results so much that they lie to themselves in order to believe it, lol.
Dude so sorry the graph I made showing the the light specs were jumbled by the app. 452 is the peak blue spectrum and 660 red and 780 far red. The other numbers represent (umol’s/s). So I am so very sorry for you writing that novel on quantity per sq.m.
In the future please short precise answers.
@sanibelisl, I get zero updates about comments to the profile, so this is pure luck i am reading this. use a dm or comment anywhre else, and i'll get a notificationa bout it, but not here.
My answers are as precise as they can be given the info provided. I don't see th eimage you speak of. you can read the wiki for the math equation. it's quite simple stuff. phones are not quantum meters. umol/s of PAR is 10x more imoprtant than fretting over CCT.
Thanks again for being redundant. Decided heavier saturation of 660-760nm was needed during late flowering.
As for the phone app , notice taken but I do have to say that bouncing it off of manufacturers specifications it is more accurate than I expected. Not that lumens matter but it was spot on, same with cct spot on, so that leads me to believe it is more likely close than not.
Co2 good!! Co2 not!! In a closet with louvre doors.
And it’s five from the taint. lol!!
@sanibelisl, it's going t0 read and give consistent values, and that's all that matters for how you are using it. if it reads "42" and that's where you find it is just dialed back from causing damage, then it's a good target to shoot for -- doesn't matter if it's really "42 dli" or not.
However, you may need different targets for each light. that "35 dli" may actually be higher. if it too is at the point dialed back slightly from light damage, you can safely assume the two lights reading 42 and 35 are essentially providing similar DLI.
this isn't opinion or a debate. it's mathematical fact. and it's a fact a phone can only read lumens/klux as it is not a quantum meter. So, it requires a conversion. Unless you have a light spectrometer, it's impossible to calculate a proper conversion factor. So, they use a "stock" factor that will generally work okay with most grow lights, since there's a fairly limited range of light properties, , especially nowadays with LED. All that thing is doing is reading klux then multiplying it by a factor to give a dLI reading... not unlike a "TDS" pen doesn't ever measure ppm. it is convereted EC using a factor which will vary by manufacturer. The ppm value is a figment.
You can do the exact same thingn with lumens/klux and it will have the same error between grow lights as the "DLI" app. Also, if the app calculates DLI from 1 reading, that's retarded. It takes and average of many readings, greater quantity =greater accuracy, to competently measure DLI with a meter. Each individual measuremnt is merely a umol/s reading of PAR in that 1 spot.
using your umol/s produced by the light is super easy to convert to a rough estimaet of DLI. It'll be more accurate than the phoen app for sure. divide it by m^2 then reference a DLi table. if it's close to your app reading, then it mean the app isn't far off.
42dli usually cause damage. So i would wager money it's reading high.
@00110001001001111O, yikes, for posting your reply and telling you to go start your nonsense elsewhere?
sorry lil fella, this is what is called (to people under 40) 'receipts'
you said nonsense, i recorded it and brought it to your doorstep...it also made the other clown pipe down
hello. sorry how my response to the lighting question was taken. i was really searching for answers geared to how to operate lights that can produce a lot of power i.e. my new light(it is a beast)a NextLight Mega Pro 640 WATT 1650 PPFD 2.6 efficacy 2,874 full spectrum leds dimmable ay 25,50,75,100 percent...so with this said i have seen grow tents with powerful lights where the lights are hung high and there are plants of multiple sizes all trucking right along...?raise the lights turn up the power and mimic the sun!?...
here's what i have done...i kept the light at 25 percent power, lowered the light to 22 inches where the ppfd is 350'ish and the dli reading of 26/27 , if i go as low as 18 inches i get 400 ppfd and around 30 for the dli so if i want to push things during flower i will have to go to 50 percent power and raise the lights...so i just turned the power to 50 percent and at the cuurent light setting of 24 inches the ppfd jumped to over 750 and the dli went to 55... will have to raise the lights for sure if i raise the power...i got these lights at such a great deal 0 00... i just could not pass them up as they originally went for ,200 they will veg a 7x7and flower a 5x5 and i have a small room i may convert to a grow space in the future...and as for word salad i seem to do pretty good myself
lol...happy gardening everyone
Nothing broken on the light. NextLight being NextLight they made things so you must use their equipment. It’s more of a cable issue than anything else. A hundred dollar “adapt pro “ and a ten dollar switch would work.
Nothing broken on the light. NextLight being NextLight only their adapters fit their equipment. The NextLight Pro series is only adjustable in 25 percent increments, making 50 power too much for the tent. With the proper adapter the light is adjustable from 0-100 percent. They sell the adapter for around 100 dollars. I was hoping maybe someone would have a cheaper solution.
@00110001001001111O, hey there thank you for the detailed answer on my question. Howweedgrow is the youtuber in question not to name drop he just seems like he uses it it like 90% of his stuff. Seemed like it worked alright judging by his grows. But I totally get what you're saying about product plugs. This is my first grow and didn't want to get overwhelmed by the VAST amount of brands there was. Kinda just went for the first thing that didn't seem too flashy. Do you have any experience with grow dots at all? I was thinking about using them for my next grow. Thanks again!
@Strangegarlic, @Strangegarlic, Nearly all fertilizers can work well. There's no magical products. Paying more for the same thing is usually all that you can do, lol. They are all ubiquitous if made by a decent manufacturer.
I'm not a fan of slow release options, like grow dots. But, if you learn to ride that bike, it can make for an easy grow. Likely it will take a good bit of trial and error to get teh right amount releasing throughout the grow. The biggest issue i have with this method is that if you add too much, you are pretty much doomed, lol. It's a much easier adjustment mid-grow to add more than to take away what is already given. So, i'd start modestly, then slowly increase how many you use based on how much you had to supplement them throughout the grow. Also, the ratio of nutes in teh grow dots may just not be a good ratio, in which case they will never work smoothly on their own. if youwant that sort of low-maintenance no-till grow, i'd look into living/super soils.
fyi, i've never been alerted before to a message on my profile page... Maybe, they fixed this? but, there's a chance i never get notified about these comments. i see another new one below i missed from mr binks green sleeves. 8 days ago - never notified by GD.
DM's are the paper airplaine icon on the screen. or click "chat" above on my profile.
As far as quality info - cocoforcannabis.com - read their guides and any article in dr photon's corner. Even though it mostly speaks of soilless growing methods, the information is relative to all grow methods.
Hi mate. Not sure how this website works just yet as im new here. But wanted to get hold of you. I dont know if i can message you. As the only person who has commented on my post id like to pick your brains a little about my set
@Mr_Binks_Green_Sleeves, use the chat button on profile. Until the last comment, i've never been notified by GD of profile comments, so that is why i never replied to this 8 day old message. at this point i don't recall what i commented on - assume it was a grow question because i'm not too social on here otherwise, lol.
So was was well over her expected life span after several setbacks. So she started shooting more nanners in several different places so she was chopped. Salvaged some bud and lost some immature ones.
HighLux will finish by herself. Only days now!
+1 strain
+2 strains
Mountaintop Mint
