Got some new lights gifted by a friend - how should i setup? ideal space size? # of plants etc? Open brainstorm on configuration - I've only grown out

This is for mature plants that are photoperiods that will eventualy need a 12hour cycle of light/darkness, then i'll show you simple math to convert to 18/6 cycle requirements. https://www.phlizonstore.com/products/phlizon-pro-series-2000-led-grow-bar-lights Looks like spec sheet is fairly accurate based on number of diodes and how hard thery are driven.. so.. 2.6 x 240 = 624 umol/s of PAR is the output. x3 is 1872 umol/s ... This will be 35-40 DLI for 20-22 sq ft -- assuming you can evenly distribute the light with 3 of them. The other one .. i cannot find a spec sheet.. but based on the design, looks like some old inefficeint led or cob led light? i'd ignore the vege/bloom switch as far as being relegated to either.. use both when useful and use one when you ened less intensity if it doesn't have a dimmer switch etc.. one will be a warmer white light and the other will be cooler, but what matters is total light applied and the measurable effects of a bit more or less red light is real but tiny and insignificant by comparison to overall intensity's effects on growth rates. So, maybe 2umol/J efficacy to be safe.. if you get a bit more you may need to space them out a bit more or dim them one way or another -- less hours of operation without causing flower phase or greater hanging distances etc.. 700umol/s x3 is 2100umol/s of PAR... this would cover 25 sq feet at 35-40DLI range. FWIW, you can go as low as 25dli, but nug quality will suffer.. it'll be larfier, larf will be a larger portion of yield overall too. 35 to 40 DLI is up near maximum you can give with ambient CO2 conditions. Read up on daily light integral on wiki to get the gist of properly understanding how much energy via light you apply to a plantn per day.. it is about total number of photns received and not hours of operation.. more than one way to skin that cat and stil get to 35-40 DLI and all work reasonably the same within any common sense grow context.. 10-12 hours of light is as low as anyone would need to go for any reason. So, if you arrange these well, you could get up to 45-47 sq ft at the high end of DLI for ambient co2. You can stretch it further, but i'd stick to that. Okay so converting that from 12/12 constraints to a mature vegetative plant or autoflower on 18/6 cycle you somply multiply it by 150$. so 47sq ft becomes 70.5 sq ft. This would require a different hanging distance to even out light across the canopy. The geometry of covering more space appropriately from wall-to-wall. a free klux app can help reduce proportional intensity from center to edges. You increase hours of operation from 12 to 18 (all other factors remaining the same except dynamics of hanging distance and proper distribution of light), that's a 150% increase, so you can increase area by 150% to even that out. Now, you need less light for younger plants. Also, these are all ballpark suggestions that ALWAYS require trial and error. Your ambient co2 ppm will not be the same as all others. Your resulting climate will not be the same. All of this impacts how much photosynthesis teh plant is capable of doing per 24 hours.. giving more than that will hurt the plant. Observe and react -- the distance between growth nodes is your guide -- don't let it stretch too much and don't let it remain too tight. moddis has his metric off a bit.. it's umol/m^2 (aka PPFD). His numbers look okay. I'd say 900 PPFD over 12 hours is a better place to start, but that's a maybe. 900ppfd over 12 hours is 38.9DLI. USe a DLI table! If it amounts to the same DLI, you'll have the same results regardless of size of space or hours of operation. 1200ppfd over 12 hours will burn plants in ambient co2 and 1200ppfd over 18hours would burn the absoute shit out of any plant for certain, lol. (indoor context) The 1200ppfd over 12 hours is for 1200-1300ppm of CO2 in atmosphere and a well-controlled climate. Use a dli tabale.. 35-40 DLI is a good start. All suggestions will require trial and error from there. Hanging distance.. the older led probably better 20-24" and the newer bar styl is probably better 16-20". If they have a dimmer, use these hanging distances on an 18/6 cycle at 65-70% power. Then when you switch to flower you keep the same hanging distance but increase power to 100%. Without a dimmer control, this is more difficult to do but still manageable. The older led probably doesn't have a dimmer switch, and hopefully the beg/bloom options line up with this 2/3rds / 100% ratio. If not, you have to also adjust power of light with hanging distance or hours of operation... which the latter would impact what you do with th edimmer on the other light -- but it'd be directly proportional. 1/18th less light (one less hour) is about 5% less umol/s of PAR so you'd need to take that 67% x 100/95 = 70.5% to give the same DLI. No trial and error if you already know a particular DLI is good to go.

Heres your light i guess: https://phlizon.eu/products/phlizon-pro-2000phx4-240w-full-spectrum-dimmable-led-grow-light?_gl=1*1f23x54*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rNM3S4q67Rx_BtcngukjVLX0fTLIaLF6eXgfdJuEZhdcWk72mdr4_hoCChgQAvD_BwE Picture 3 tells u how much light u get on which spots with different heights(only works like that if no other lights are next to it) Seedling: 300umol/cm2 Veg: 600umol/cm2 (500-700) Flowering: 800umol/cm2 up to 1200, pretty much all the plant can take without burning it I use this numbers, you can also check guides. There are probably 100's of different opinions on the intensity.

A good way to work is on 50w per square foot. 300w will do a 3'x3' and your 240w easily do 2-2.5. Maybe if you need to use all 6 then spaced out over a a 8x8' footprint. As far as the switches go I'd keep em both on if it gives a full spectrum light. Or split areas up so you have a veg and flower area. This makes for no wasted time. Once harvested move plants ready for 12/12. Aim for total darkness when lights are off. Especially in the flower