Runtz x Layer cake; 75F - 55RH; 70% coco - 30% perlite; since week 2 i've been watering with PH'd water (6.2) + CocoA+B, PureZym, PowerRoots and

forgot to say there are apps that take the percents off your nute labels and adds it all up for you to calculate ppms and overall concentration. you don't have to do this math. you just have to type some info into an app or online calculator.

first, i'd guess your growth rate is probably fairly normal and the plants look mostly healthy. the clawing leaf isn't the best, but has more than 1 possible cause. not a pH issue per your measrement. are you trying to water often - "frequent irrigation?" Don't do that early. All that does is inhibit root growth early on. A plant will grow more roots with the right amount of 'stress' from a wet-dry cycle compared to always wet even if you avoid the pitfalls of a constantaly wet substrate, otherwise. Wait for top layer to start to change color and use that as trigger -- learn weight at that point for a more accurate trigger. Always 10% runoff or more... always fertigate. This maintains a consitent equilibrium in substrate... you adjust formula not flush to shift it in most cases that are not dumpster fires. The shift will be immediate and if a fairly large change, a little extra runoff speeds that process of shifting the resulting equilibrium. This makes diagnosing and adjusting easier because you know what you are providing in a consistent manner.. one less moving part to compensate for. 10% runoff always and always fertigate each irrigation. A little extra runoff does not hurt but only needed as reaction to good reason and not something that should occur often... shouldn't happen at all if you run your ferts right. If the formula is half-way decent, it should only require small adjustments to mitigate any symptoms you see slowly progressing on the plant. If it requires a flush, you need to rethink the whole formula top-to-bottom. That's a massive failing in soilless if you need to flush the substrate. anyway, i think if you haven't given as much of a 'dry' cycle in your watering habits, it's probably resulted in a smaller root mass and also that curling of a couple leaves that are fat with water. If the curling doesn't correct itself with more of a dry cycle, then i'd shift to examining how much of each nute i am feeding, becuase that is more likely a sign of overfeeding once any potential caused due to irrigation habits are eliminated. Your leaves are a healthy green and the cotyledons in the one plant are clearly fading -- so toxicity is not a major issue and certain not with too much nitrogen. Could somethign else be too high? maybe. The good thing is if it is a toxicity of some sort, it is progressing slowly. This allows you to have great patience and avoid compounding the issue by guessing too early and whatever you did potentially exacerbating the real problem or causing a new one. One plant has much longer internodes (the one where you can see yellow cotys) which indicates it got a bit less intense light than the other or possibly just genetics. As the canopy expands, growth increases. It's exponential early on and up to physical limitations of plant/pot etc, but takes a while to ramp up in a visible way. Your plant will be 2x as big every 10-14 days, maybe even shorter increments. This is the real cause behind "flower stretch" -- it's simply normal ongoing vege growth for 4-ish weeks before it tapers off - i.e. 2-3x larger after stretch as it would have been after 4 weeks of growth anyway, lol. The plant would have grown roughly the same amount over 3-4 weeks had it not flipped to flower, in other words. Causality is often misinterpreted and misattributed in this hobby. so, 1.2-1.5EC is a good overall concentration to start. N 120-130 P 50-60 K 180-190 Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100-110 Local tap water will influence some of these. Local VPD will impact overall concentration you need to give your plant. There are local variables that matter, but this will be close to start and require minimal adjustments over time. Within 1-2 grows, if systematic about it, you'll be running 99% perfect plants seed to harvest and virtually no symptomsm are needed effort from you to battle a dumpster fire you often see in maybe 40-50% of diaries, lol. If any of these ppm values as calculated from guaranteed analysis labels are drastically different, good chance it's going to cause a deficiency or toxicity over time -- small deviations are not an issue.. these are not meant to be exact values. This is a very light mix of maybe 1.25 EC? The ratios are what matter.. the overall concentration nis easy to adjust relative to local variables and observing the plant. weighted average of NPK et al percents can be used in the same way, but they are messy and less intuitive in my opinion. Maybe need 110ppm of N in flower.. other than that shouldn't need much adjustment. I added the weighted average calculation to my spreadhseet for shits and grins: N 7.2% P 7.9% K 12.6% Ca 6.4% Mg 4.5% S 6.1% I mix at a 1.337EC overall concentration in vege which results in 125.48 59.84 182.46 111.74 79.15 105.93 PPMS, respectively. Ratios and overall concentration are what matters... anything that adds up to a tox or def will show in the plant, eventually. Small issues take a long time to present a symptom -- this is both good and bad... good because you are super close to refining an formula that works for 99% of your plants and bad in that it requires an attention-span as long as a month or two, lol, and understandign that what you see is a culmination of cause and effect over a very long period of time and not just what you did last irrigation. Rate of use vs rate of provision.. simple as that. anythign that exceeds by too much will cause a tox.. anythign lacking will cause a deficiency eventually. Important to remember that ingredients of all fertilizers are commodities... (some organic products with no fucking clue what comes in them so they can't give an guaranteed analysis label is an exclusion to this rule -- there will be greatly different quality among those types of products). The quality of these basic ingredients is always the same, so one brand or another is mostly not relevant to quality of outcomes.