Not good enough drainage qualities to do it -- especially with smalelr plants in a bigger pot at the moment. All you'll do is hinder root growth. You'll need a larger plant than normal, relative to pot size, to warrant it because of the lack of perlite or similar. This isn't about "Can" it work but will it be worthile or will it elevate risks?
Allow a good wet-dry cycle to occur until you know your roots have fully colonized the whole pot. Allow top layer to start to change color at a minimum before repeating. Always fertilize, always have 10% runoff waste water -- never lt it sit in its piss. If you do that, any small problems you see are fixed with an adjustment to the fertilizer formula used. The rootzone will be consistent and you simply have to adjust it through the formula. Buildup is not possible in rootzone -- does not mean buildup cannot occur in the plant if feeding too much to start.
Later on, when it is drinking enough to warrant daily irrigations, you can ramp that up if you want. I'd still let the root mass develop first, but a minimum of 33% weight loss is a good trigger point for frequent irrigation setups.. how fast the plant drinks will determine if you can do more than 1 per day or not. This sort of thing requires the right sized plant and pot in order to function properly without causing elevated risks in your rootzone. From what i read you have diminishing returns after 2-3 fertigations per day... doing more is just extra work with no return. more and better reseach is needed for such a thing to be certain, of course. Some genetics may respond differently than others.
I water with less "dryback" between irrigations once i get to flower, but i also have a 5-6 week vege length for reference. Before that point i follow a steady wet-dry cycle so the roots develop more in order to best make use of those later more frequent irrigations in flower phase.
with coco you want 33% perlite or simialr amendment. This allows for optimal aeration, drainage and compaction avoidance (research based not anecdotal info nor personal preference). With a higher water capacity base, like sphagnum peat moss, you want 50% perlite or similar. This realtes to how much water/gas per volume results and why different water capacity substrates need different amounts of perlite or similar. coco holds about 2/3rds the volume of water compared to similar amount of sphagnum peat moss. You can see how this relates proportionally to the amount of perlite you "should" use.
a few percent off either way is irrelevant. low-precision of just filling up 1 bucket of perlite then 2 buckets of coco and mixing is fine. or 1 scoop, 2 scoops etc...