Seedling

You need to do things differently from described. I'm not trying to be mean, but might joke a bit about it. Stop with the spritzing. That's never useful for irrigating. You are misunderstandig some fundamentals. no worries, as they are simple and easy. You have what will be a tiny seedling in a very large pot. This is not optimal. Ignore the people that say you shouldn't transplant an autoflower, that's ridiculous. In this suboptimal context, water a column all the way down - maybe 3-4" wide at top? Now you can plant a seed. Does not need to have any fertilizer, but the normal concentrations for soilles nutes of 1.3-1.5EC would be fine, too. In coco it may be even beneficial to make sure your coco is properly buffered. Sooner it is soaking in your ratio of ferts, the sooner it gets to equilibrium with them. If you fertilize, make sure every ensuing fertigation has 10% runoff (waste water). You shouldn't have to water before it sprouts, if you did it properly - therefore no concerns about irrigating a nascent plant. Just put a cup or something over where you planted it, but remove it when it sprouts. This avoids any evaporation drying out the substrate, even superficially. This way the substrate stays moist but is not dripping wet from constant ministrations. In fact, stay away as much as possible.. the only things you can do are negative things related to personal OCD at this stage. So, in future, Use a small pot for a seedling (2.5-3.5" wide). Get entire thing wet - can let it drain for a few minutes if you like. Depress a 1/2" hole. Pop seed in. Gently cover it. done. Don't stand over it like a henge. The plant does all the work. None of this half-assed watering and spritzing daily. All that'll do is possibly have a failed germination, and if it does germinate, the tap root is burrowing into dry substrate and it'll potentially die. By the time you do have to water, the plant should have sprouted and the tap root is deep enough you don't have to be concerned about superficial drying of substate. wait for top layer to start changing colors and fertigate until 10% runoff. If you do this at the same loss of weight / same change of color up top, it'll require teh same volume of water -- learned retroactively and not choosen by use but by the properties of the substrate and volume of it. Also, the volume needed will be mostly an unknown as you slowing increase radius of fertigation - could take notes if deadset on doing it this way in future for a better guess. In this case of huge pot/tiny plant, continue to widen the irrigation circle around the plant as the plant grows. Water just wider than the canopy and you should be okay. It may take 7-9+ days before needings the next irrigation when doing this with a huge pot and tiny plant. So, you do have to keep a closer eye on the plant and make sure it does not wilt due to potentially odd drying patterns. If it does, probably needed a wider circle of moist substrate around it. Just as you don't want water sitting around stagnant for many days, the substrate being wet without a 'refresh' is no different. It elevates risk of pathogens and generally leads to slower growth. The 10% runoff keeps nute content at equilibrium over time as well as flushing out old nasty water. Use a smaller seedling starter pot in future or watering properly becomes difficult. https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/transplanting-cannabis-plants-why-when-how/ -- don't let anyone scare you away from up-potting an autoflower. only a retard causes shock when up-potting. More optimally with properly sized pots and plants: in coco you always get the whole thing wet and whatever volume that takes is what you need + 10% runoff waste water. Wait for at least 33% loss of weight and repeat with 10% runoff - always. don't let it sit in its piss, either. fwiw, i go with a more pronounced wet-dry cycle early on and amp up frequency only later on with a well established root system. Roots will grow thicker if they are searching a little bit for water. mild stress is good stress in this context. Any sort of frequent fertigation will depend on the plant drinking fast enough to warrant it. Pot size matching plant size becomes even more critical when employing frequent fertigation. If the plant can't drink off enough to warrant it, all you do is elevate risks of problems in rootzone. By watering entirety, you get a drying pattern that causes deeper roots. Roots physically turn toward greater moisture. If you spritz the top, that'll end up causing roots to run upward and superficial roots will turn to stem as they are exposed to light and air. Erosion/compaction will reveal them months later at times. You want roots growing downward and a proper fertigation cycle will accomplish that on its own. Plus, the runoff is integral to how you fertilize in a soilless grow. Spritzing is something that makes you feel useful but does nothing useful for the plant. good soilless/hydro nutes should be ph-balanced and resistent to pH-drift. should be 100% plant-available and 100% soluble. It is an easy way to grow great weed. don't overthink it.