Feeding auto’s

That's because people overdose the shit out of their plant more often than not, lol. This is partly due to marijuana branded fertilizers instructing to do so... which then forces you to periodically flush the medium becuase it's become toxic but they advertise it as some sort of benefit, lol. Really it's just to get you to buy more frequently. buy their 'flushing agents' and a whole bunch of other nonsense that provides no benefit the the plant.. may even be a net negative if you ahve to flush every 4 weeks like some instruct you to do. just retarded... If you grow in coco, this is simply a soilless/hydro context. The coco provides nothing. you provide everything. coco is no different than any other soilless medium as far as how to fertilize or how much. It has slightly different characteristics, but is in the end simply something that absorbs water to hold it near the roots. Coco needs to be properly processed and buffered not to be poisonous to plants. Make sure you get it from a reputable source. A bad batch will derail a grow. It should contain at least 30% perlite or similar. I'd suggest switching to a sphagnum peat moss produce like promix hp/bx. Raw sphagnum peat moss needs processing too, but not in regards to nute-buffering so it isn't as dangerous. HP/BX products come ph-balanced with wetting agent etc. In this medium you'd want 50% perlite or similar, so you'd have to do a little math to add the proper amount to the 15-25% that comes in each. According to bugbee, coco is not as good, but he doesn't quantify that in the video. the difference is likely too small to care about for a handful of plants. Use it if you wish. you'll be fine more times than not. if coco requirs a different ratio of nutes, it means it was not buffered correctly. Your fertilizer will slowly get it to equilibrium, but a buffering process should do that before it is used. It can leach Ca if poorly made. Again, this is a sign of poor manufactruing of the coco and is not a characteristic of any decent coco product. Poorly buffered products will leach Ca and release Na, K etc and cause all sorts of nasty issues ranging from sodium toxicty to fucking with your targeted K ppm levels and Ca ppm levels. Small issues related to this will quickly reach equilibrium with your fertilizer and not cause problems. Once at equilibrium, it won't leach anything. That is the whole goal of proper buffering. A well balanced diet around 1.3-1.5EC is all you need with the proper ratio of nutes. religiously get 10% runoff waste and you will have a consistent resulting level of nutrients in your substrate relative to your formula. It can't build up. It may not be your exact formula, but consistency is the key. You can now simply adjust the formual to adjust nutrient content in your soil almost immediately. This makes reacting and fixing leaf symptoms easy as pie and fast-acting. This strength won't even burn a seedling. It provides more than enough nutes around the roots for excellent growth rates... more won't do shit but stroke someone's ego. As calcualted from gauranteed analysis labels, 650-750 ppm. TDS pens convert EC and use various factors which makes that number a complete guess. It's fine if you stick to 1 scale and get familiar, but as you can see with the link from m0use those ppms are based on a 700-scale EC conversion. If it were a 500-scale it'd be totally different numbers but the same level of nutes exist in the soil regardless of how we measure, obviously. Better to caclulate these from your labels using a free app like "hydrobuddy." or, make your own spreadsheet. e.g. his 'full bloom' numbers of 800-900ppm at 1.2-1.3EC would be 600-650 ppm on a 500-scale TDS meter and still 1.2-1.3EC, because it was converted differently from EC. ppm readings on those pens are not accurate and won't communicate well to others. Stick to EC when comparing to others because ppm might be wildly different despite same level of nutes existing all due to manufacturer of the TDS probe (TDS - total dissolved salts probe, obvioulsy mis-named a bit, lol). Some targets i'd start at and make minor adjustments based on what the plants tell you over time. Vege phase: N 120-130 P 40-60 K 180ish Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100+ One of the fertilizer components should contain the micros (B, Mn, Fe etc). This is a low-end concentration. You'll more likely go up from here than down. HYdrobuddy can take your products and give you target dosing amounts to hit these numbers. You don't have to do any of the math. In flower i'd drop N to 100ish by week 3-4. Again, let the plant dictate. If you see dark/glossy leaves before that point, drop it sooner. preconceived notions are fine as a starting point, but drop them like a bad habit when you see a plant react poorly to those choices. Take notes, make adjustments. This formual should work on 90% of plants right out of the box. The whole idea that this plant is picky is a product of esoteric fertilizer formulas of people that refuse to admit something they do isn't 'best.' This isn't 'my' formula. It's a formula used in many soilless/hydro nut setups as well as the intiial charge for promix hp/bx products (this has less K but all other numbers are virtually the same). It's common research that these manufacturers use and end up making very similiar products -- not a coincidence. These are ballpark numbers, may need 5-10% shifts in any one of them for long-term, nearly flawless plants. You can run 10 strains from same reservoir type consistency is a rational expectation and easily doable. Your local VPD will impact overall concnetration, but ratios that result in consistently healthy growth will remain the same.

this is a guide you may mind usefull https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/med-man-method-ppm-ec-chart.73326/

It's gonna vary based on your fertilizer, the strain you're growing, and the stage of growth your plant is in. The "quarter to a half" rule is basically just a guideline to get people in a good ballpark so they don't overdo it. Fertilizer companies tend to recommend pretty high dosage so you buy more often. I use General Hydroponics(Terra Aquatica) and typically run my nutrients at half strength to their recommend dosage with good results.