Quick One Auto - How to grow - Second Time Grow

typical soil -- 50% perliite or simialr .. total.. if it comes with 25% you should add enough to be roughly 50%. coco only needs 33% because it holds 2/3rds teh water per volume. do a weighted average if there is some portion of coco in the happy frog stuff, i can't recall exactly what constitutes it. if it's 1/2 coco 1/2 soil/spagnum peat moss type base, then you want 1/2*.33 + 1/2*.5 = ~42%.. or 60/40 would be fine. Don't have to worry about a few percent, but if possible better to err on high side than low side. I set my heat mat for 76F .. think 'they' say 76-80, but this is reference material you can google. ~76-78F is great, but i don't spend boku bucks on space heating for seedlings. your root rot was probably more about your own habits than the optimal amount of perlite. Allow top 1" to dry in ffof type soil before irrigating again. If happy frog is mostly coco, you wait for top layer to start to change color as it will hold a lot less water than what you experiences with FFOF, all other factors the same. you water when you need to. you give the amount necessary to accomplish the task. You learn these things in hindsight and not predetermined. If you constitute the substrate the same and use same sized pots, then you'll know how much and the timing of it as the plant grows based on past experience. you can learn it, but only in hindsight. Some environmental variables liek temp/rh will impacat timing of how long between irrigations too... plants drink more in higher VPD environments. fertilizing in soil is like learning to ride a bike. You need to learn that balance. Each soil is a bit different. The more inert perlite you add the more reduced the pre-charge of nutes becomes. You supplement as needed and obviously need to amp that up slowly as what comes in the soil is exhausted. There is no one-sized-fits-all fertilization procedures. Tehre are too many moving parts for soil. If you want that, go to soilless options and soilless/hydro fertilizers. when learning, i'd be more reactive.. allow the plant to show hints of deficiency and then react... taking notes along the way. Pre-emptively ramp up at the appropirate time in the next grow cycle after you learn the when and how much. It's easier to add than to take away from the soil. Fixing a deficiency is easy. Fixing a toxicity is a bitch.