Drooping ?

Maybe if you could help us with a diary or some growing parameters, we can let you know, that water is primarily responsible for droop, a slight droop could indicate a chill plant not being pushed very hard photosynthetically, a slightly more noticeable droop though, may hint it's running out of water to maintain a cohesive column. The cohesion-tension theory explains how negative pressure enables water movement from the roots to the leaves of a cannabis plant. As water evaporates from the leaf surfaces through stomata, tension is created, generating a suction force that pulls water upwards through the xylem vessels. This process relies on the cohesive forces between water molecules, forming a continuous column for efficient water transport. In cannabis plants, xylem vessels serve as the conduits for water transport. These specialized cells form interconnected channels that allow water to move upwards from the roots to the leaves. The negative pressure generated through the cohesion-tension mechanism helps drive the water flow within the xylem vessels. Negative pressure facilitates the movement of water from the soil, through the roots, and up to the leaves of cannabis plants. It helps maintain proper hydration and turgor pressure, ensuring the cells remain firm and upright. This is crucial for healthy growth and structural support. Negative pressure transports water and aids in the uptake and transport of dissolved nutrients within the cannabis plant. As water is pulled up through the xylem vessels, essential nutrients and minerals are transported along with it, supplying the various tissues and organs where they are needed for optimal growth and development.

drying pattern on top of soil definitely indicates bad watering habits. clean that up first, then see if it is still drooping. as far as the light... read up on Daily Light Integra, DLI. The wiki entry is good enough. you can use the umol/s your light produces and assuming normal hanging distances 35-40 DLI "at the diode/light" is usually all you can give with ambient co2 and at least a loosely controlled environment, otherwise. umol/s from spec sheet divided by area in m^2 will give you "PPFD"... now just google a DLI table to reference with hours of operation and you have a good estimate of DLI. If up near 40, might want to dial it back, but i'd give it a few proper irrigation cycles before adjusting the light, unless more symptoms pointing toward light intensity show up. Either case, something to learn about your light. After the irrigation is fixed, adjust light based on growth pattern and keep notes... "power" will be inversely proportional 1:1 with hours of operation. Once you know what's best for "18" hours you know what's best for all other hours too. e.g. 67% over 18h is 100% over 12h to give roughly the same DLI.

Leaf stems look limp.........which means the plants are thirsty. Water the ENTIRE pot until you get run off then let them dry out until the top inch or so is dry again then repeat. A wet dry cycle is the way to water correctly, not a fixed amount every second day or whatever..........every plant/pot/substrate/environment factor will influence how much water to give each plant. Never watet every plant X amount every Y days, always monitor each individual plant and water as necessary. Getting run off each time you irrigate is essential for soil health and preventing the build up of nutrient salts, either mineral or organic.

Hi, If the light is just turning on, then the flowering plant will look like this in the picture, which is okay. Your soil looks very dry in the picture. You might want to give the plant some food. Also, the plant looks pretty good in the pictures. Well done, bro.