DWC Brown spots - PH EC fine maybe Lockout?

Du solltest uns die stats, die alle passen, also E.C. pH, VPD, welchen fertilzer und wie viel auch ruhig nennen, wenn du eine richtige Einschaetzung brauchst. Koennte ein nutrient lockout sein. Wenn du sagst, das fing in flower an. Da hast du vermutich den duenger gewechselt und auch etwas erhoeht und das koennte zu viel sein. Sonst kann es ja nicht viel sein, wenn du sagst pH, E.C. und alles stimmt :D Vermutlich aber eine kombination aus leichten pH drift, zu viel oder zu wenig calmag oder der VPD einfach gar nicht stimmt und die pflanze kaum Wasser aufnehmen kann. Ist dir was aufgefallen mit dem Wasserkonsum, der sollte in beginn der bluete noch mal etwas angestiegen sein und sich weiter erhoehen. zumindest bei mir im DWC so, wenn alles glatt laeuft, so mindestens ein Liter. Wie hier auch schon geschrieben, kann es etwas dauern, bis die Probleme verschwinden. | Check noch mal um dopellt und dreifach sicher zu sein den VPD, den pH 5.8 ist was ich immer anstrebe und am besten einen reservoir change, wenn du dir beim duenger unsicher bist und erst mal mit 2/3 staerke duengen. Wenn du sehr starkes LED licht hast und die Pflanzen richtig knechtest definitiv extra calmag dazu geben good luck

I’d like to be able to connect this to a diary for more details on your setup and nutrient schedule. In DWC your PH needs to be between 5.8 and 6.2 to be the most effective. If it strays outside of this and remains high or low you’ll get symptoms like this within a couple of days. Check and correct your PH first before making any other changes. If not you’re guessing at what is wrong.

Calcium deficiency. These symptoms are from two weeks ago, it takes that long for deficiencies in the root zone to show in the leaves. It will take 2 weeks for the spots to stop once you increase the calcium, it will not happen in a day.

Overall concentration may be where you want it, but obviously there is an issue with nutritional balance if you have symptoms. So, it's not really 'fine' if you see symptoms Looks low on Ca or possibly high on P which could lock it out. Hihg p would also have light green new growth and maybe some more damage around margins (serated tips), so there should be visible signs to eliminate one or the other. in flower i'd shoot for PPM calculated from guaranteed analysis not a conversion from some cheap TDS probe. There is a big difference. One is gauranteed to be accurate and one is merely correlated. For flower phase N 80-100 P 40-60 K 180+ Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100+ This would be lwo end of feeding concentration.. if you fed well in vege, you often don't need as high of concentration going forward. For vege, i'd up the N to 120-130 ppm and everything else mostly stays the same. Your tap water may require a few adjustments, but otherwise the ratios of nutrients is good and overall concentration will depend on numerous local variables. This isn't 'my' formula. It's one that is used by several professional Ag fertilizer makers. it's a far superior formula to most marijuana brands. very few adjustments will be needed, and if they are they will be slow moving, easily identifiable symptoms with easy diagnosis and then never see again in future as you dial in formula. growbuddy? hydrobuddy? one of these free apps can take gauranteed analysis labels and tell you dose for target ppms. it's a very useful function.