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I'm a Certified Seedling Killer plz help me diagnose

KurtThePlantGuru
KurtThePlantGurustarted grow question 5 hours ago
Been having this issue nonstop for months, (thought I should add I have 5-6 indoor and 50+ outdoor grows under my belt) but lately my indoors will not make it past the first week or 2! They get stunted right before they grow their 2nd set of true leaves. They end up lookn like #2
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 3 hours ago
pale cotys.. think it exhausted whatever the seed came with to power growth. needs fertiilizer or pH is wacko. this is odd since it's in soil anad the soil should have "something" in it. So, ph or nute-lockout might be the problem. stick to the smaller seedling pots. It's total nonsense that autoflowers will be 'shocked' from potting up. Unless you use some retard strength on the rootball and mash it up, it'll be fine having a properly sized pot to plant is integral to proper watering habits. Fullly saturate, wait for dryback, repeat. Can't do that witg a huge pot and tiny plant. End up with stangnant water growing weird shit or not watering deep enough can causing superficial root growth. Definitely need more information to give a proper answer. You should never partially water. Always water entire pot, always... This should never cause a problem. If it does the substrate was constituted poorly and needs more drainage amendments. That is objectively a bad suggestion to give some insufficient amount of water to accomplish the task properly. I water fully, compress a small hole that creates a good basin for seed to rest and not accidentally 'fall' further into substrate, then gently cover from sides and tamp down. Dark and wet is all that is needed. If you have to regularly water before it sprouts, use a humidity dome to delay irrigation needs. Shouldn't need to water for 5-7 days even with a 2.5" seedling pot. By that time most healthy seeds will have sprouted if the environment is decent. By that time it has a tap root all the way down and no longer too delicate to irrigate properly with a godo wet-dry cycle. Remove humidity dome once it sprouts unless your climate is incredibly dry. Heat mats (with soil thermometer probe) also improve consistency of sprout times - a smaller window will result which is beneficial for canopy management and having equal sized plants etc. don't be cheap, avoid the mats with no soil probe to control heat. If internode isn't developing, may need slightly less light, then likely need to amp it back up shortly after. internode length is guide to light intensity... too short, reduce; too long, increase. Best practices for sprouting seeds are the ones that keep it simple. No esoteric, complicated instructions are necessary - just amounts to an epeen or misunderstanding
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gREEn7o0
gREEn7o0answered grow question 4 hours ago
Quick questions: What type of soil are you using? How often are you watering? Are you letting the soil dry back between watering? What is temperature? What is humidity? What is water ph? Are you feeding? What type of water are you using and what is its ppm? If I had to just make a guess with no info I'd say overwatering, it's one of the most common issues for seedlings. The soil should dry back and pot should be pretty light after 2-3 days, if it is taking longer you are giving too much water during each watering. When I start seedlings and pop seed into soil each solo cup is getting about a shot glass of water. Thats in promix HP which dries back pretty quick. I hope she turns around for you, good luck and happy growing.
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