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how generate Seeds

41310a
41310astarted grow question a month ago
Hi everyone. I am currently having difficulty buying seeds. (It is not financial difficulties) I have some very good seeds from Fastbuds and I would like to produce seeds from them. I have seeds of Banana Purple Puch Auto and California Snow Auto I am waiting for your tips.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question a month ago
OOO you want to create more seeds from the existing plants you have. This can be fun. Done it with a auto x auto backcross onto its sister. growdiaries.com/diaries/129779-grow-journal-by-m0use Few things to note. ** reversing a plant requires silver, some forms work better ** 1) Auto is resistive gene trait, meaning if you mix auto genetics with photo genetics it will result in "fast" flowering photoperiod plants. not fully photoperiod not truly an autoflower. 2) When making seeds out of Fem genetics, you only want to do it a few times no more. My rule is one and done. When you cross fem plants it's making their genetics a bit retarded, The first set/generation of seeds will be ok. every other set/generation made from the last generation of seeds will be worse and worse, it is not advised to keep making seeds out of seeds from previous projects as their is no true males and its getting messy. Low germination, high hermies and other weird mutations happen. 3) you can not consume the reversed plant "pollen producer/dad" as the silver is not good for your body. So with that in mind you need to pick a donor "pollen producer/dad" and receiver "pollen whore/mom" You will want to start the receiver plant earlier by a week or two then start the donor if they have similar growing times. This way the receiver will have lots of sites to receive pollen. Then you need to pick what silver you will use. The two most available options are Colloidal silver aka CS or Silver Thiosulfate aka STS Bother have their own ups and downs. Silver has the ability to block one of the female hormones in the plant and then it produces male parts like sacks/balls. sacks/balls on a fem plant = fem pollen. fem pollen + fem flowers = Fem seeds. CS ups: cheep, more available then STS, can make your own with a few tools for cheep. comes in many strengths. Min 30ppm max 500ppm, Long shelf life, does not matter if it human/pet/project grade Downs: Does not work as well at STS, more applications are needed and hard to tell its strength on home made, STS Ups: works better, less applications, a little can go a long way. Long shelf life when the two components are kept separate. Downs: costs more oz V oz, hard to make at home without a former education on the matter, does not last as long, around 1yr shelf life once fully mixed. Can be made too strong and cause issues. has two components to be mixed if you want longer shelf life, other wise 6-12 months... ish. If you go the CS route "what I did" many options. get something that's at least 30PPM and has like 200ml, if you go STS route, try and find a production date, you want stuff that's less then a 1yr old.Their is a person on this site who made their own STS using the compounds and mixed it up. they do a good job but its a process. with weaker solution of CS you need to spray it daily with STS you spray it once or twice a week. both options you stop once you see male sacks/balls forming on the donor plant. Once this happens wait for the sacks to open. Can spread the pollen around manually or let the air fans do it in the tent. Once pollinated, the pistils will brown at the tip and slowly brown moving down. The seed will then take about 4 weeks to develop. I run my receiver plants, the ones making the seeds, extra long. Like 6 weeks to ensure they are fully mature and ripe. Their will be some back crossing of pollen from the donor plant, you can use these seeds as well but they will not be the same as the ones you made with the donor x receiver plant. it will be donor x donor and a selfed back cross. If you want more of the same strain its best to use two plants. eg two Purple Puch Auto or two California Snow Auto and cross one with the other following the system donor x receiver for better results. Once you have the seeds in hand, let em dry out in a warm location for a week or two after harvest and then bag em up. keep them cool and they should last years. Can toss out any small white looking ones as they are not likely mature. Some plants make very textured/spotted seeds, others make matte brown/beige/greenish ones. Do a germination test of them in a glass of water with 5 seeds and see how long to they take to pop. Not all crosses yield great seeds. if all pop within a few days time call it a success. They should carry over traits from both parents.
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Still_Smoq
Still_Smoqanswered grow question a month ago
I’ve been down this road with fantastic results. STS is the best method to use in my experience. Some varieties are a little more resistant than others, but ultimately every plant I’ve sprayed with it gave me male flowers. You can then collect the pollin to cross, or allow the plant self pollinate. You need not spray the entire plant either. Just a branch with good light will work. Then cut the branch off when finished with it. This is great for breeding your own cross or duplicating what you already have. What it will not work on is your F1 seeds. They will reproduce but the offspring will not be what the mother was.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question a month ago
STS is easy to make. Don't by the pre-packaged stuff. Buy silver nitrate and anhydrous sodium thiosulfate off ebay. Last i bought some the silver nitrate is about 2 USD per gram. You use very little at a time so 5grams or 10 grams will last many years. Since it comes in a dry form, it stores even longer. Sigma Aldritch recipe is accurate and based on molar ratios of a balanced equation. If that is greek, just know it's the right ratios/proportions to mix. https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/US/en/technical-documents/protocol/cell-culture-and-cell-culture-analysis/plant-tissue-culture/silver-thiosulfate *** - This recipe must be diluted further. Mix as instructed because it is important for the double replacement reaction to take place efficiently. Dilute further with distilled water 1:5.67 for a 3mM concentration and 1:9 for a 2mM concentration. So you add 10mL of the solution from the recipe then 90mL of distilled water or 56.7mL, etc. Make sure you use distilled water. Do not use any metal utensils or trays etc. A "milligram" scale is necessary to weight out smaller batches. If you want to make 250mL of solution, it simply won't be done accurately with a common ".01 +/-.03" digital scale. A 500mL solution will be +/-10% error with this scale and about as small of a batch you can make. Still WAY cheaper than buying it and you will still have plenty to mix up for years to come, but if only spraying one plant it'll be a total waste. 3 applications. Flower day 1, 5 and 10. Spray every surface. FYI you do not need large plants to make ~1000 seeds. I got 1200 from a 30-40g plant (dried weight) I'd guess you need about 100mL per small plant like that? maybe 75mL? So even the 250mL batch will have some waste. screw CS. the stuff you buy on amazon is a bunch of bullshit lies and never has the ppm it claims. if you go that route learn to make your own with a silver coin and a battery. you have to apply that every day for 10-14 days.. pain in the ass. Makes the plant sickly as fuck too. STS sprayed plants retain their health. don't overdo it on concentration. I had near 100% conversion (virtually all pollen sacs on plant) when i accidentally sprayed with 10-20mM. forgot to dilute and couldn't fill up my spray bottle enough etc... Thought it was fine until harvest and zero seeds resulted. Stick to 2-3mM concentration. if you can follow the simple instructions form the link above, do not be afraid to use STS. It's simple. you just stir to dissolve, then slowly add one to the other as you stir. then dilute. Simple as that. The silver nitrate is corrosive and will permanently stainthings. So don't do this on your kitchen table unless you put something down to protect it. I wouldn't pour excess down the drain either, unless significantly diluted. No reason to corrode your pipes. LOL dump excess in the road or back woods etc.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question a month ago
Try "Pev Grow" in Spain, they willl send seeds nearly everywhere in the World with stealth packaging. Mandala Seeds, also in Spain, are another World-wide sender. Much easioer than trying to "reverse" a female plant to make pollen. Sodium thiosulphate works extremely well and is easy to make if you have the right equipment and you can get the chemicals into your country........ebay is one source to get them from............there are plenty of "recipes" on the net and in my experience, STS is much more reliable than trying to use colloidal silver. You will need a sacrifical plant to reverse as you should not consume anything from a treated plant. Reverse a female, harvest the pollen and then use it on your next crop...........seeds take 4-6 weeks to fully mature and if you try and pollinate plants that were started at the same time as your sacrifical pollen donor, it will be too old to produce many seeds and too old to grow them long enough to mature properly. You need to pollinate a plant right at the beginning of flowering, when all the pistils are still white for maximum results. Once you have made seeds, they will be quite variable in their genetics, you will then need to repeat the whole procedure a few times with selected specimens to develop a true breeding line of seeds............maybe 3-4 back crosses at least to stabilise the genetic traits you are looking for. Considering all this, unless you have a lot of time and space, buying seeds is much, much easier.
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