Any acid that fully disassociates is fine. White distilled vinegar (acetic acid) is cheap, readily available and does not impact nutritional ratios. pH drift is not caused by the acid you use, for future reference to avoid bro science.
Simply add a small amount until you get the targeted pH. After that you can simply measure out the same amount and it will have the same effect. Be aware that tap pH can chnage. My tap went from 8.4 to 7.0 a few years back. The local water utility changed something, obviously.
You should consider yourself lucky that you can't fall into the trap of fox farm products, lol.
Soil is soil. It does not have to be a mariuana brand and most marijuana brands idea of what is best for marijuana isn't based on anything but untested whimsical hypotheses.
Soil can vary greatly from one product to the next, so there is no one-size-fits-all solution for you. Trial and error is the only way. Remember, it is always easier to amp up fertilization compared to trying to fix an over-feed problem.
A good soil will properly feed your plants for a period of time. As the amended nutrients get exhausted, you must supplement it with fertilization. Again, different soils will need different supplementation over time. Take notes of what you do and the timing of it... 2 weeks in? 4 weeks in? etc.. Once you see a hint of deficiency, you can start fertilizing. continue to observe and adjust. The notes will help you pre-empt any visual deficiencies in future. If you use the same products, you'll likely need to begin fertilization at some point in time as well as similar concentrations that will scale up as you go.
Look into soilless growing. It's far less complicated to hit the ground running. When you give 100% of nutritional needs through fertilization, it eliminates a significant amount of trial and error. in this case, i'd look for a "3-part" system that uses a 'base' product paired with calcium nitrate and epsom salt. The brand really doesn't matter, much. this stuff is made from commodities and quality doesn't vary, even if how any particular fertilizer is constituted obviously does vary.
Ratio and concentration is important to track, but you can't use this information too well until you know what causes healthy and happy plants. At that point you know what to compare and what likely leads to future problems that requires an adjustment etc.
Local variables are extremely important. so, any suggestion you get you will absolutely need at least 'some' adjustments relative to your garden. download a leaf symptom chart. Start consulting it everytime you see leaf symptoms, even if you continue to ask questions here... gain familiarity and you'll be able to diagnose indiscrete context of leaf symptoms as well as anyone else... it is always straight forward, and your greater understanding of your garden will lead to better conclusions than random people on the internet.