This is a very similar setup to jacks if i recall... a base fertilizer which hopefully includes the micros plus cal-nitrate and epsom salt?
The cheese-dick companies put the micros in the cal-nitrate, that way you overpay for their branded cal nitrate.
There is no such thing as "premium" fertilizer. some do work differently and there may be some 'better' options, but overall this stuff is made from the same pool of ingredients and doubley so for soilless/hydro focused stuff. All youhave to do is look at the label. The stuff that has an IUPAC nomenclature is a commodity meaning it is the same regardless of where you buy it. calcium nitrate is always calcium nitrate. Monopotassium phosphate is always monopotassium phosphate in the same proportions because it is the same exact molar ratio of the atoms that constitute the molecule -- otherwise it would not be "that" molecule.
e.g jacks cal nitrate is 50-75 USD for 25 lbs. Yara Liva has a 50lb bag for 30-40 USD. Nearly 1/4th of the cost and the shelf life of these type of dry nutes is decades if stored properly. Exact same thing... one company charges 4x.
That's why they'll try to sneak the micros into one of the generic parts. Then you either have to overpay or buy the micros (B, Mn, Zn, Fe, Cl, et al) seperately.
Between cropsalt and jacks the only different is the resulting ratios from instructed dosing -- - which can be tweaked to resemble each other, too, in most cases. There is minimal difference.
Looks like cropsalt has bloom and flower products. probabyl unnecessary with little to no difference in outcomes, but often makes people feel warm inside doing sophsiticated thigns, lol.
Their bloom A is 5-12-22 vs jacks 5-12-26 part a. cropsalts vege part a is 5-7-16
i can tell you for a fact that you will not run into any P or K issues using 5-12-26 in vege. 6+ years of use and have never seen a K or P toxicity in vege with jacks. I do use a lower-than-instructed dose, though.
So, there's going to be virtually no difference between the two (as far as expected results) that can't be matched or mitigated with creative dosing. that's the real superpower of this type of fertilizer. You can tweak the formula based on what you see and ensure it works on 95-99% of plants nearly flawlessly. I regularly draw from 1 reservoir for 6-7 strains of plants and have no issues... rarely.. when i see something it is very late in flower and minimal / slow-moving. Comparable to what people cause with a slight fade, so it must be a good thing (that's a joke).
Track elemental ppm of each nutrient molecule or the weighted average of the percentages based on dosage. You will quickly learn upper/lower thresholds of what you can provide without causing a deficiency or a toxicity. If it keeps up with your lights and climate, it's 'optimal'. Whether you temp, rh and lights are optimal are a seperate questions. They all have to jive with each other in the end and the leaf symptoms will show you when it's "off."
I see cropsalt does not have an 'epsom salt' component, which just means it is baked into the other parts - the label will say 'magnesium sulfate' in ingredients - that is epsom salt. For this reason i'd recommend jacks or any of the other options with a similar 3-part setup. also, it looks liek cropsalt is really expensive. lol. Fuck that. I spend 30-40/year on fertilizer for 16-20 plants that take up 2x2 space each, for reference. It costs about 4 cents per gallon mixed. This is a fair price.
Masterblend also has a 3-part system like this. Southern AG has somethign similar. At one time floraflex did too, but it was 5x mor expensive for no reason. Again, nothing premium about these products as they are made from commodities.
Jacks has a bunch of specialize products like a 0-5-12 part a option or a "bloom" option or a finisher if you want to get all mad scientist and have unique formulas for each life stage and it's still way cheaper than crop salt. Next year i'm getting a 0-5-12 bag and doing a mix of that with the 5-12-26 in flower to reduce N while maintaining 180ppm K and 50-60ppm P. That's about as mad-scientisty as i get, lol. Regardless of life stage i run into deficiencies or toxicities if i stray too far from 180ppm K. Rarely do i need more, but if i see anything in late flower it tends to be a slight K-deficiency, but the canopy is more than strong enough to supply it without issue over that short period of time - no different than what results from an intentional *slight* fade - not some dumpster fire nonsense.
https://en.
wikipedia.org/wiki/Commodity
There are free apps that can tabulate your elemental ppm from gauranteed analysis labels and dosage. Everybody's local evnironment (light, climate, fertilzier etc) will result in slightly different dosage. Start around 1.3-1.5 EC proportional to instructed dosing and then observe and adjust formula based on results. Within a grow or two, if systematic about it, you'll have a very refined formula that will work nearly flawlessly seed to harvest on 95-99% of all marijuana plants, including autoflowers. It doesn't matter which brand you but, but some will be less expensive than others, therefore the better choice.