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CalMg for RO water

Flippinugget
Flippinuggetstarted grow question 5mo ago
With RO water when should I start giving magnesium calcium? The soil doesn't contain fertilizer but has 10-20% organic matter with analogy of 2.5-1.5-2 NPK based on white and black peat and enriched with humus, perlite and zeolite. Source will be the micro bottle of T.A tripack
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MistaOC
MistaOCanswered grow question 5mo ago
I use ro water and have been using BioBizz CalMag from the very beginning. I start with a dosage of 0.5 ml per liter of water. Around week 3, I increase the dosage to 1 ml per liter. By around week 6, I raise it again to about 1.5 ml per liter, depending on how the plants are developing. I usually stick with 1.5 ml, but if the plants show higher demand, I sometimes go up to 2 ml per liter. If you’re using BioBizz CalMag. this is the approach I would recommend
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 5mo ago
Calcium shouls always be providedd. Where it gets tricky is what is supplied by your soil and its amendments and what do you need to provide through fertilization. In a soilless/hydro context this is easy.. probably 100-130ppm (elemental ppm) should be maintained in reservoir or in your fertilizer mix -- this assumes proper 10% or more runoff waste water to avoid buildup in a solid substrate vs a reservoir in hydroponics. Soil is a bit more complicated, but that doesn't mean 'worse' by any means. There's just more trial and error invovled due to how much Ca is being released by any amendments included in the soil or added by you. Products vary, so there is no one-size-fits-all answer for soil. Even with soilless there are other variables that can impact exactly what you want for ideal supplementation and avoiding toxicities/deficiencies over time. pH and other concentrations/ratios of nutes may impact availability (see Mulder's Chart for a visual aid) and therefore need a slightly different concentration of Ca than others. Simply observe and react. If you get deficiencies, you obviously didn't provide enough leading up to those symptoms. If you run into toxicities, and Ca will definitely start to lock other stuff out, you now you over-dosed it leading up to that point. Tracking your weighted average or elemental ppm can make these observations easy to correct with greater confidence and a better educated guess on the adjustment needed.. The longer it takes for an imbalance to form (def or tox), the smaller the adjustment is necessary -- and vice versa for bigger adjustments needed. It's about the long-haul effect on not just what happens tomorrow or next week. take notes about dose and timing... There may be more fog of war with soil, but the same ends can be reached. Familiarity with your products is just one extra step to consider while working it out. If you buy different soil or amend it differently, then you'll have a new learning curve to get thruogh... same process as above, but at least you have a better starting point by comparison to a completely fresh start. Some people like simple, watered-down bits they can memorize, others like to understand a bit more of the cause/effect and nuance invovled. Simple fact is more than one local variable can make for fairly large differences of need. Assuming everyone's garden will function exactly the same is doomed to fail at some point, even if it covers 'most' situations. I always appreciated more in-depth answers. Each to their own. If you don't like them, then don't read them, and the person asking the question can simply pick a simpler one. It really doesn't fucking matter, lol. if there is some misinformation or concern, list your concern and provide some evidence as to why. if it's just anecdotal, that is not reliable evidence - all of history has proven that low-success rate, lol.
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MistaOC
MistaOCanswered grow question 5mo ago
I exclusively use ro water and supplement it with Biobizz CalMag. Especially under LED lighting, calcium and magnesium deficiencies are among the most common nutrient issues. After a lot of fine-tuning, I’ve settled on the following dosage schedule: • Seedling stage: 0.5 ml per liter • Vegetative stage: 1.0 ml per liter • Flowering stage: 1.5–2.0 ml per liter.
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ATLien415
ATLien415answered grow question 5mo ago
@Organic_G, said we need a word limit on these 👏👏👏
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Organic_G
Organic_Ganswered grow question 5mo ago
Don‘t know why everyone writing novels for a simple question as if they have nothing to do in life… Most of them don‘t even use Ro Water themselfe Using RO water myselfe all the time, better be proactive than reactive, i use BioBizz CalMag as an addative to the water or as a foliar spray ( works quick ) I also added Dolomiten lime, it‘s the best slow releasing CalMag source i know & also buffer the PH of your spoil 🍀 Happy grow
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oldskoolkool
oldskoolkoolanswered grow question 5mo ago
I was using GH/TA decades ago.Don't like TA,sorry.Good quality terrrible company.They were called GH,general hydroponics until monsanto took over,the people that make round up,glysophate whcih is killing us all.A lot of hydro shops took them off their shelves due to this take over.The 3 part is to be used together and not seperatly at anyh stage of the grow.They put them in different bottles as the react to each other which is why they can't be mixed and need to be added to the water one at a time.Never put anything out of a bottle together before adding it to the water.My friend along with several other people iv read about stopped using their ro filters as they caused nothing but trouble.The nutriants are developed with tap water.Iv just got myself a new quality filter but its not RO.As soon as she has her first true leaves you can give her full feed but I like to give them a half dose for the first week then full after that,around day 20.
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The710Garden
The710Gardenanswered grow question 5mo ago
Hell Yeah Bro
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