CalMg for RO water

I use ro water and have been using BioBizz CalMag from the very beginning. I start with a dosage of 0.5 ml per liter of water. Around week 3, I increase the dosage to 1 ml per liter. By around week 6, I raise it again to about 1.5 ml per liter, depending on how the plants are developing. I usually stick with 1.5 ml, but if the plants show higher demand, I sometimes go up to 2 ml per liter. If you’re using BioBizz CalMag. this is the approach I would recommend

Calcium shouls always be providedd. Where it gets tricky is what is supplied by your soil and its amendments and what do you need to provide through fertilization. In a soilless/hydro context this is easy.. probably 100-130ppm (elemental ppm) should be maintained in reservoir or in your fertilizer mix -- this assumes proper 10% or more runoff waste water to avoid buildup in a solid substrate vs a reservoir in hydroponics. Soil is a bit more complicated, but that doesn't mean 'worse' by any means. There's just more trial and error invovled due to how much Ca is being released by any amendments included in the soil or added by you. Products vary, so there is no one-size-fits-all answer for soil. Even with soilless there are other variables that can impact exactly what you want for ideal supplementation and avoiding toxicities/deficiencies over time. pH and other concentrations/ratios of nutes may impact availability (see Mulder's Chart for a visual aid) and therefore need a slightly different concentration of Ca than others. Simply observe and react. If you get deficiencies, you obviously didn't provide enough leading up to those symptoms. If you run into toxicities, and Ca will definitely start to lock other stuff out, you now you over-dosed it leading up to that point. Tracking your weighted average or elemental ppm can make these observations easy to correct with greater confidence and a better educated guess on the adjustment needed.. The longer it takes for an imbalance to form (def or tox), the smaller the adjustment is necessary -- and vice versa for bigger adjustments needed. It's about the long-haul effect on not just what happens tomorrow or next week. take notes about dose and timing... There may be more fog of war with soil, but the same ends can be reached. Familiarity with your products is just one extra step to consider while working it out. If you buy different soil or amend it differently, then you'll have a new learning curve to get thruogh... same process as above, but at least you have a better starting point by comparison to a completely fresh start. Some people like simple, watered-down bits they can memorize, others like to understand a bit more of the cause/effect and nuance invovled. Simple fact is more than one local variable can make for fairly large differences of need. Assuming everyone's garden will function exactly the same is doomed to fail at some point, even if it covers 'most' situations. I always appreciated more in-depth answers. Each to their own. If you don't like them, then don't read them, and the person asking the question can simply pick a simpler one. It really doesn't fucking matter, lol. if there is some misinformation or concern, list your concern and provide some evidence as to why. if it's just anecdotal, that is not reliable evidence - all of history has proven that low-success rate, lol.

I exclusively use ro water and supplement it with Biobizz CalMag. Especially under LED lighting, calcium and magnesium deficiencies are among the most common nutrient issues. After a lot of fine-tuning, I’ve settled on the following dosage schedule: • Seedling stage: 0.5 ml per liter • Vegetative stage: 1.0 ml per liter • Flowering stage: 1.5–2.0 ml per liter.

@Organic_G, said we need a word limit on these 👏👏👏

Don‘t know why everyone writing novels for a simple question as if they have nothing to do in life… Most of them don‘t even use Ro Water themselfe Using RO water myselfe all the time, better be proactive than reactive, i use BioBizz CalMag as an addative to the water or as a foliar spray ( works quick ) I also added Dolomiten lime, it‘s the best slow releasing CalMag source i know & also buffer the PH of your spoil 🍀 Happy grow

Plants synthesize all 20 proteinogenic amino acids, including the nine essential amino acids for humans. This synthesis relies on various nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and others, which are used as building blocks and in various metabolic pathways. Enzymes are large proteins that catalyze biochemical reactions within the plant. The amino acids formed through plant nutrient utilization are used to build these proteins, including enzymes. Think of nutrients like different colored Lego blocks, all the Lego blocks pretty much do within the plant is either protein synthesis, aminos or enzymes. Creating amino acids and enzymes (which are proteins) are very high-energy processes, requiring significant amounts of energy to synthesize these complex molecules. This energy is primarily provided by the breakdown of other molecules and the hydrolysis of ATP, a molecule that stores and releases energy within cells. Supplementing plants with amino acids conserves energy by reducing the need for plants to synthesize amino acids from scratch. This saved energy can be directed toward other essential processes like nutrient transport and increasing yields.

I was using GH/TA decades ago.Don't like TA,sorry.Good quality terrrible company.They were called GH,general hydroponics until monsanto took over,the people that make round up,glysophate whcih is killing us all.A lot of hydro shops took them off their shelves due to this take over.The 3 part is to be used together and not seperatly at anyh stage of the grow.They put them in different bottles as the react to each other which is why they can't be mixed and need to be added to the water one at a time.Never put anything out of a bottle together before adding it to the water.My friend along with several other people iv read about stopped using their ro filters as they caused nothing but trouble.The nutriants are developed with tap water.Iv just got myself a new quality filter but its not RO.As soon as she has her first true leaves you can give her full feed but I like to give them a half dose for the first week then full after that,around day 20.

Organic matter is being constantly broken down to mineral form (fertilizer). Depend on what matter is being broken down Into, if there is no calcium or magnesium then you will need to supplement if using ro water. Ideally when it comes to growth and plants you don't want more than 5% of total to be organic matter, why? When organic matter decomposes, microorganisms break it down, releasing heat as a byproduct. The microorganisms also break down matter constantly adding and raising EC of the medium. You will needto keep on tip of that. Organic matter has very high CEC, this will change the way your soil works compared to using, synthetic ferts in a low cec medium. Essentially your soil will store excess cations (charge), a battery pack or a storage device for nutrients. What does it matter? 98% of nutrients uptake directly from water solution applied each watering. Using synthetic ferts in low cec you need to apply the specific ratio that best suits needs for stage of growth and constantly reapply that ratio when ec drops, reapply. When your soil stores alot of nutrients high cec , once the nutrients uptake from the water solution, the "empty" water that remains will react with whatever the soil is storing and fill that water back up. Understanding ph will go a long way and it's relation to a base saturation and the big 3 cations in soil. At a pH of 7 100% of available cations will be filled with the big 3, Ca,mg,k. Ph ph ph ph, ec, ec, ec. If you feed ro water with zero salts, will suck all the nutes that have been broken down, this will only be beneficial if the microorganisms are breaking down a balanced. Understand a couple simple metrics. 99% of everything a plant will need in its entire life consists of the 6 macros. N,P,K,Ca,Mg and Sulphur. Everything else is 1% Really depends how much "organic" means to you, or more "what" it means in context. Prior to a grow I try to load up every mineral a plant will need in its lifetime into the medium, Only thing I really want to slow release is cal and mag which I know will always be needed, constant ph of medium will tell me base saturation if and when to apply more or less cal mag. Instead of all that focus on feeding precise ratios of npk in soil i focus on aminos and enzymes. Plant can pick from the all you can eat mineralbuffet rather than have you dictate a meal plan based on growth averages. Dedicate your efforts to improving environmental conditions for growth to occur. Leaving the plant to focus on rapid growth. I really am blabbing on. Good luck.

Hell Yeah Bro

Since you're using RO water (which is very low in minerals), and your soil is a light organic mix (peat-based with perlite and zeolite), supplementing with Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) is important from the beginning of the grow, even in the seedling stage, though in small amounts early on. Here’s why and how to proceed: Why Add Cal/Mg with RO Water: RO water strips out almost all minerals, including Ca and Mg, which plants need even early on. Peat-based soils are naturally acidic and low in Ca/Mg, even with humus and zeolite. Zeolite can help buffer nutrients, but it doesn't supply Ca or Mg in significant amounts. Calcium is needed early for root and leaf development, and magnesium is key for photosynthesis (part of chlorophyll). When and How to Add CalMg: Since you're using the T.A. (Terra Aquatica) Tripack, which includes: Micro (contains Ca + micronutrients) Grow (N-heavy) Bloom (P-K-heavy) Follow this guideline: 1. Start adding T.A. Micro immediately, even for seedlings — it already contains calcium and micronutrients. This helps avoid early Ca deficiency. 2. For magnesium, if you're seeing signs like pale lower leaves or interveinal yellowing, you can add a bit of Epsom salt (MgSO₄) — around 0.3–0.5 g/L (¼ tsp per gallon). 3. If you want to use a combined CalMag supplement (like T.A. CalMag or similar), start at 0.25 mL/L and adjust based on growth and visual signs. Summary Dosage Plan (Week 1 onward): Micro (T.A.): Start with 0.5–1 mL/L (depending on seedling age) Optional CalMag: 0.25–0.5 mL/L if you’re not relying solely on Micro Mg supplement (if separate): 0.3–0.5 g/L Epsom salt if needed Adjust up slowly as plants grow, and always check EC/ppm if possible to avoid buildup