same soil as you'd use for photoperiod grow.
I'd suggest adding perlite or vermiculite or simialr (drainage improving amendment) until whatever comes with the soil and what you add is 50% of the total volume. the only pre-packaged stuff that has enough out of the box is the 70/30 coco+perlite options, but that is a 'soilless' medium. in soilless you fertilize every irrigation.. few other differences involved, too. IF you find some potting soil that is 50% perlite or similar, still may or may not be a good option. if you like the main soil, just add more perlite or similar. it's easy to do.
The only way you don't have to use nutes is if you have a soil packed with enough slow release nutes to last the entire grow. This sort of thing takes a lot of trial and error to tweak the constitution of your soil. You have to live with the mistakes as you go, but this is a robust plant and it can still finish even if the ratio isn't great when you first start trying. I'd get a few grows under your belt and do some research before you attempt to do this, if still interested.
Don't overpay for brand names. Good fertiizer can be cheap. Your soil will take care of things early on, but you'll need to learn through trial and error how to ramp up fertilization. Start small when you see a hint of paleness at bottom of plant... maybe start with 1/4 strength of instructions and fertilize every other or every third irrigation. If it continues to show deficiency bump up to 1/2 strength... take notes of timing and concentration you feed so that you can make a good plan for the next grow cycle that avoids the paling altogether - or any other issues that rise.
Same for soil.. if it's made well it works well regardless of brand. it does not need to break the bank. the ingredients are cheap. Brand does help if you go with coco coir... some brands have a better reputation and coco coir takes a lot of processing for it to be suitable to grow plants, otherwise it'll make them sickly (na++) or throw the fertilizer balance off due to fucked up contents of untreated coco. if it isnt 'washed' and 'buffered' properly it can kill plants, lol, or make them incredibly sick to start.
Fertilization is the culmination of the entire grow.. what you do early impacts what you see many weeks later. Any time you make drastic changes to your fertilization plan, expect a few hiccups you didn't expect down the road.
e.g. how strongly i feed nitrogen in vege impacts how drastically i have to reduce it in flower. I usually drop by 33% but in the end what i see in the plant is what dictates my actions. If still getting too lush or glossy, i know to drop more regardless of my plan or what happened last time... the plant will tell you what to do.
Be flexible. have a plan. Be systmatic to shorten learning curve. Remember the plant dictates everything... plant disagress? throw the "plan" out and adjust to what the plant dictates by its health.
i wouldn't worry about dechlorinating your water. the levels are so low it doesn't matter. Aslo, Cl is a trace element used by the plant, so it actually provides something useful. Another reason is that there is a good chance they use 'chloramine' and that doesn't gas off as easily as Cl. That's not going anywhere if you leave it out for 24-48h etc. The stagnating water is more of an effect than the benefit of dechlorination. still want to do 'something' maybe leave a bucket of water in the sun... the sun will hasten the dechlorination process, but it is totally unnecessary. good way to get insect larva in your plants while it sits outside, lol.
Autoflowers are really no different. Less room for error in vege phase. This is nit-picking, but i'd say autoflowers are more difficult to grow well than photoperiods because you have no leeway on vege phase length to correct any early health issues. No biggie, in a few grows you'll never see health issues early on (easiest part of grow) if systematic about adapting your process to what you see.
Consider soilless medium - it's easier / shorter learning curve - and photoperiods in future. I joke often that 'autoflowers suck' but they have their place. they are beneficial in some contexts, but otherwise are lesser plants, in my opinion.