PPM is just a concentration measurement.
ug/L is not the same as elemental ppm. Sometimes these things get used without delineating the difference. One is just based on mass, but the other is about molecules or atoms per liter, which is how they get used.. they aren't used per gram they are used per atom/molecule. They all have different densities.
One thing to understand is that an EC probe measures conductivity, not concentration. It only correlates. Depending on the manufacturer, it will use one of several conversion factors, which tells you all you need to know about it's accuracy. A different pen might give you a drastically different number. This is okay relative to 1 garden. If you change products the expected readings may possibly shift a bit. I don't know how volatile that is based on the options for fertilizer ingredients.
Mulder's chart - summarizes relationship between the nutrient elements. The ratio of nutrients can impact how much of each you need.
Your local temp/rh and atmospheric co2 matter too..
so, what you need can vary quite a bit from others.
when looking at elemental ppm, 600-700ppm is a good spot to start for a soilless/hydro context. Again, your EC conversion of 870ppm is not the same animal.
in soil, it's all the same cause and effect as far as the goal of nutrient concentration resulting around the roots, but you supplement what the soil provides.. you only add various parts that are lacking or have been exhausted over time. This takes familiarity with the soil product used - any any amendments you make.
Rate of use Vs rate of root intake.. if you provide too high of concentration relative to root intake, you run into a toxicity. and vice versa, a deficiency. Observe and adjust. Overall concentration won't help much diagnosing issues or making adjustments to your fertilizer composition (i.e. ratios of nutes provided).