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runtz auto premature flower

ofenjoe
ofenjoestarted grow question 13h ago
my runtz auto from zamnesia went into preflower at 11 days and stands at around 10cm. why is this? i used a 5 gallon fabric pot, humidity was on the lower side with 47%. at the end the pot was really light so maybe underwatering but it showed no signs of it, i used finger method.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 5h ago
sometimes autos just do w/e they want. I find it can be from to much fertilizer or weird growing conditions or just the seeds.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 9h ago
Effin autos!
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 10h ago
oh, despite the peanut gallery's insistence that you should put an autoflower in its final pot from the start, don't do that. appropriately sized pots help develop a better root zone and make watering much easier. If you (plural) shock a plant from potting up, you (plural) should quit gardening completely, lol. Never seen it happen in 6-7 years so far... must be people applying that gi joe kung fu grip while doing it. just the problems with irrigating a small plant in a large pot alone is enough reason not to do it. just training superficial roots or stagnating water for weeks growing weird microbes, lol....
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 10h ago
Node spacing is a bit tight, but hard to be certain with this picture.. it's tough to assess in general forma snapshot. something that evolves over time. soil? soil growing is generally slower growth, which means smaller plants with autoflowers. You'll still have 3-4 weeks of solid vege growth from the point you recognized preflowers on the plant. Preflowers are the single calyx that forms near each branch. you definitely don't need a 5-gallon pot for an autoflower. 3-gallons will be sufficient. This too might help. The plant was probably trying extra hard to colonize the large volume of medium with roots and possibly neglecting above ground growth. Definitely stick to a good wet-dry cycle. you water to saturation, wait for top layer to dry and repeat. If you were waiting for 1" deep to dry, try 1/2" deep next time. Don't try to treat it like foie gras. you use the volume necessary, you wait for appropriate dryback.. irrigating is a reaction to observable facts and not a top-down choice. You cannot over or under water adhering to these simple rules. Work on your nutrient balance based on what you see.. so far so good.. plant is healthy. whether it is too much or not will become apparent with time. again, simply take notes and adjust for greater long-term health next time. Within a grow or two, if systematic about it, you should be confident in growing healthy plants seed to harvest. There are no magic products that make bigger buds or better plants than their genetics allow. humidity -- 47% without temperature is mostly useless. VPD is what matters. temp and RH need to be considered together. If VPD was very high or too low, it couldhave contributed to slow growth. VPD is calculated with leaf temps, so if using atmospheric readings, subtract 3-4F when referencing a VPD table. Slightly below 1 kPa is good for seedlings and up to 1.2 kPa for mature vege... you'll see lots of slightly different suggestions in this regard. Even 1.5kPa should be manageable... but you get up closer to 1.8-2.0 kPa and you will eventually stall the plant growth with prolonged exposure.
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 13h ago
shit happens man, it's auto what's done is done there's rly not that much options ( - extra N to slow the flowering - extra DLI within 24h i know it's not ideal but... mb some ppl give u a good advise May be veg be with u next time T_T
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