nutritional levels for coco coir and DWC

start tracking how oyu feed! this will greatly speed up learning process and avoid repeated mistake... fine-tune that formula faster to the point you have nearly 100% smooth grows each time. I barely put a thought into fertilization at this point and expect great results. It's not a mystery unless you allow it to be. either calculat ppm from gauranteed analysis or calculated weighted-average by dose of each nutritional element. Both methods are effective... do you like look at whole numbers or percentages with a couple decimal places? About the only dfiference.. you'd become familiar with both quickly. Learn exactly where you see typical deficiencies and toxicities, which helps fine-tune your formula to mostly avoid such problems. there's more than "1" effective formula, but some are definitely better than others. I wouldn't know which is most effective, but a good sign is never worrying about how many strains or different seeds you feed with it - and, autoflower, photoperiod, doesn't matter.

You can absolutely give the same to both and have great resultes. If i switched to DWC i'd use the same formula i use now for a soilless medium -- no different than coco in regard to nutrition. The medium the plant resides in does not change the biological needs of the plant. Though in the future, do mix 2parts coco to 1part perlite or similar or buy the 70/30 stuff. That does look like a caclium deficiency. If they have been feeding the same formula to each, i'd switch coco brands as it is leaching Ca -- this will be a termporary thing that will reach equilibrium (no more leaching), but this should not happen with washed and buffered coco coir. This is a sign of poor processing and passing along a substandard product to you. When properly buffered, coco does not leach caclium or magnesium or any other cation. This is the danger of coco... if not buffered, it can release Na+ at worst or throw off your nutrient balance, which is still pretty concerning depending on severity. Poorly buffered coco can kill a plant or set it back significantly. That doesn't look like the cause hear - not sodium sick plants at least, but it clearly is stealing some Ca and maybe releasing any of the other cations which also could create other domino effect imbalances. That calcium is replacing 'something' in the cation exchange sites and potentially plant-available. If you have a bunch of it remaining, i'd double-soak it in some calcium nitrate at 100+ ppm Ca (something similar to what you plant to feed would be best, possibly a bit above it to be safe but depends on how many times you soak). Let it sit for a while, empty and refill -- volume of water should be much larger than the volume of coco to improve effectiveness - don't go overboard, but this isn't a matter of irrigation. Cocoforcannabis.com has a procedure for buffering coco. URL below. I'd follow their instructions, but if oyu see any symptoms like this again, maybe boost concentration of Ca a bit in the buffer... the goal is getting it to equilibrium with your formula.... no net gain or net lost Ca or anything else. https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/how-to-prepare-and-buffer-coco-coir/ I bet with the same diet, after following their buffering procedure, you won't see this problem with exact same diet. Also, soilless is a simple fertigation procedure.. make sure you follow it: 1) fully saturate with 10% runoff or more -- this is waste water but can be used without concern in an outdoor garden, just not a potted plant. 2) wait for appropriate dryback/loss of weight and repeat -- you do not choose the volum eof water needed, but if you irrigate at same loss of weight, it will be a very similar volume each time - learn retroactively. Keys: Be religious about 10% runoff. Yes, it is that important. If you don't do it might as well grow in a soil with slow soil growth. Do not try to choose the amount of water to give. You give what it takes to get 10% runoff - no less. By doing this, any symptom you see is not from buildup in the medium. This makes diagnosing easier. Any symptom seen is a simple formula fix (assumes pH is controlled, which any self-respecting soilless/hydro product should automatically do) you use the same products for soilless and DWC. The same formulas, etc... If you want to see a common ppm breakdown, check out germination week of any of my 3 diaries - same image in each. Jacks, megacrop, cropsalts, southern ag, masterblend all have a 3-part hydro feed that are very similar, which is no accident. All based on the same existing knowledge base and not some esoteric nonsense some amateur cooked up in his garage and slapped a cartoon branding label on it aimed at marijuana growers, lol. The ones that put the micronutes in "Part A" are the better options. You can recognize a similar setup if a "Base" hydro product is paired with calcium nitrate and epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) -- the last 2 can be unbranded generics as it will be the exact same thing atom for atom. Branded 'base' with 2 generics you find at cheapest rate. e.g. foodgrade unscented equate epsom salt -- 7 dollars for 8 lbs? probably won't use more than 1gram per gallon mixed. Yara liva sells 50lb cal nitrate for 30-35 USD, lol.. might take 10 years to use it, but if stored right that's not a problem. if you stick with hydro or soilless, look into dry nutes.. spen 1/5th to 1/20th compared to some of these marijuana branded options. You can make 100:1 liquid concentrates then dose out at 10mL per L... just as easy as using liquid nutes at that point. I really like jacks 321 formula. I give a bit less than instructed. I've tried to tweak K/P more and played around wiht Mg a bit... always end up back at roughly the instructions -10% or so. It's a formula that works on nearly all plants very well... rarely do i see symptoms and when i do they are late in bloom and slow-moving or insignificant blemishes at time that don't stick around. It works so well i really don't get the oft-repeated "these plants are picky ..." I think it's just a matter of a poor formula more than a picky plant. I would never worry about running any number of strains off 1 reservoir.

hey 👋 You should specify the nutrients and dosages you’re using; you’re clearly dealing with a deficiency, but it’s hard to guide you without that informations

Ca,P def

Looks like the coco one is showing early Cal/Mag lockout coco tends to bind calcium if not pre-buffered. Try raising EC slightly or add extra CalMag (0.3 EC worth) before your base nutrients. Keep pH around 5.8–6.0 for coco and 5.8 for DWC to balance absorption. The DWC’s doing fine because the roots get constant access to available ions. You’ll have them back lush green in a few days