Overfert?

First picture the plant looks healthy other than the physical damage on the main stem. That probably made it stop growing for a week, and is an open wound for plant pathogens to enter. It's an outdated technique with risks and less effective compared to LST. Some plants wont respond well to topping. LST accomplishes the same thing without any stop in growth or physical damage and can be done in vegetative stage and through flowering. Second and third picture. Plants are pale, showing chlorosis and the tips are brown and necrosis creeping up the leaf. Lower leaves affected. This could be overwatering, ph problems resulting nutrient uptake problems. Its something in the root zone. Your fabric pots are directly on the floor, they are supposed to be raised with a little airspace underneath so that the bottom is self pruning. A fabric pot directly on the floor will trap moisture underneath, creating a microclimate for bad stuff, and the roots will start growing through the fabric and start growing under it in search of that moisture. What you can do is bypass the soil problem and do foliar feeding. Use a mineral fertilizer for the fastest result. You can also use something like alg a mic from biobizz or a similar product for foliar feeding as well. This will buy you some time, and keep your plants fed until you get the problem diagnosed and corrected. Let us know how it goes.

The darker one is too lush, i'd say... but it's early stages, so just adjusting your fertilization or giving it an extra water-only irrigation between can fix that or keep it in check. More than one thing causes dark green foliage, but most often it is N. Mg and Ca can both do it if provided at too high of levels, too. N will eventually cause glossy leaves, which will set itself apart from Mg-caused and Ca-caused lushness. If not familiar with the soil, be conservative your first grow cycle and it'll make it easier to avoid problems next time... wait for hints of deficiency before amping up fertilization. No need to fertilize if the soil provides for X weeks early on. Take notes of when you had to supplement various elements of nutrition and you can preemptively provide those things 'next' time. It'll give you a far better resolved idea of what to do rather than guessing what to add this cycle in some inductive manner. I think the greater concern is the drainage/aeration characteristics of your medium. More perlite. If it's a hevy soil, you want 50% perlite or similar per volume. If it's coco-based, 33% is sufficient. Both will end up with similar water holding capacity per volume, and that's no accident as the goal is gas:water ratio and not really too important what absorbs the water between the two options.. though one doesn't come with the risk of Na poisoning your plants or require elaborate buffering so it doesn't leach off nutrients, lol. watering habits are key too.. even if short-term it doesn't cause a problem, do not deviate from this simple procedure 1) fully saturate (if soilless, 10% runoff in addition) 2) wait for appropriate dryback and repeat. in a heavy soil, wait for 1" deep to dry. In coco you might need to do it around the time the surface starts to change color as it dries. Learning the weight of when it needs water is the best method, imo. If you irrigate at same loss of weight, it requirs a similar volume of water. Do not choose a volume of water. You simply give what it takes to accomplish the task. this process is not the problem if you see any droop. The problem is the poor constitution of the medium and something you'll have to live with until the end. Not catastrophic, but not ideal, either.