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Super Lemon Haze Bitkimin Genel Durumu?

Sativa1444
Sativa1444started grow question 1mo ago
Hello, BioBizz All-Mix peat Super Lemon Haze Auto 2x 50W TORCH LED at 50 cm 24–26°C humidity 60–70% 18/6 How is the overall condition of my plant Do the top leaves show signs of calcium deficiency? Is it a problem if the bottom leaf doesn’t get light? When should I start LST?
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 1mo ago
Ca deficiency are yellow or brown spots. Google image search a marijuana leaf symptom chart -- high res so you can zoom in and look at each individual example. Your RH is probably a bit high. While VPD is the primary target of Temp and RH, you don'tn want to go over 65% for prolonged periods of time. A spike is manageable, but consistently doing so will increase risk of mold. Adjust temp and rh based on VPD and current life stage - lots of references for suggestions on this. FYI, they usually reference leaf surface temperature, not atmospheric temperature -- any professional source will be referencing leaf temp. User-submitted infor could be either. The offset is 3-5F cololer than atmosphere. While i wouldn't put any weight into exact recommendations, the gist is you want a bit lower vpd in vege than in flower. Should vege be .8 kPa? 1.0kPa? This is species specific and i don't see any super dependable data about this specific plant and VPD, but it may exist if you look harder than me. It may not affect all plants equally, but what it definitely does is increase consistency of a wide range of plants. Less volatilty is good. A little chlorosis in new growth is fine as long as it quickly fills in, which seems to be the case here. Plants looks healthy. Looks like these pictures are taken with normal lighting. Be aware under grow lights everything looks paler than reality. Leaves do more than capture light. Get the idea out of your head that you need to remove a leaf because it doesn't get much light. If the plant deems it a 'sink' instead of value-added, it will shed that leaf and you can pull it off once it sucks all the nutrients out of it. Also, if you don't over-crowd the canopy, there's no reason to remove leaves for light penetration reasons. Light capture is much more efficient closer to the light than further away, so maximingn light at lower levels results in less energy from photosynthesis produced, or worse... creates holes in the canopy where light completely misses the top of leaves --- tops of leaves is the key for light absorption, not other plant material, like stems or flower with 1/100th the chorophyl. With proper canopy management and not over-crowding, you should never have to do any major defoliation. Pruning off growth that you have no use for and selectively pruning off a leaf causing a real problem may happen. The latter of which can be mostly avoided. The previous depends on how large you grow a plant. The larger you grow, th emore wasted growth you probably have to prune off givin dynamics of indoor grwoing -- A limited depth of good buds resulting compared to outdoors. LST -- what is your target canopy? If you have no idea what the end goal is, any training you do is whimsical in nature. Have a plan. That will answer most of your questions on its own. You do what is necessary to reach the number of colas per sq ft that plant is responsible for. If it's an auto, i wouldn't do much training as it really doesn't help much. Spreading out an auto to avoid congestion and maximize light absorption is as good as it gets. 3 colas per sq foot is all you need. A little less or more due to math of number of plants and area of coverage is no big deal. Even 2 colas per sq foot will maximize yield in many cases. The only time you'd want more is those rare plants that stretch like a mf'er and only produce smaller bud sites. Tend to get a deeper zone of decent buds, but still need more branches per sq ft to get a decent yield. OVerall, the garden should give you 50g/sq foot or more... less if you have a herm or weak plant, etc. If you got a room full of killers, yo might hit 70g/sq ft with ambient co2. Tracking yield will help you assess your methods. When growing from seed, you need to consider genetic diversity, too. Any one plant not up to snuff hurts these metrics significantly. But, when you make adjustments and see it generally trend upward, you know you made good choices... or vice versa if results trend down. No biggie if oyu don't hit it when you start growing, but it's achievable with limited experience if you avoid bro science.
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Antifame
Antifameanswered grow question 1mo ago
How is the overall condition of my plant? Great, she looks healthy! No discoloration, no stretching, nothing to worry about. Do the top leaves show signs of calcium deficiency? No they don't! Young leaves look like that and change color as they grow. Is it a problem if the bottom leaf doesn’t get light? No, that's not a problem. She got many bigger leaves in direct light. There will always be some leaves in the shadow. When should I start LST? You can start LST whenever you like. Like the name suggests, it doesn't put a lot of stress on the plant. The earlier you start, the more extreme results you can achieve. Be gentle and she will bend to your will. 😉😅
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HoneyBlunt42
HoneyBlunt42answered grow question 1mo ago
Hey, bro! Plants look healthy, keep it up. No calcium deficiency on top leaves. Shaded lower leaves are normal, leave them. LST on autos is debatable — many avoid it due to stress risk. Definitely don't top. 50cm light distance might be too far — check PPFD with Photone app (or similar). Your stage needs minimum 300 PPFD. If lower — drop lights to 15-20cm or add side lighting. Watch for stretching. Lower humidity to 40-50% before flowering. You're on track!
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