Started flowering cycle with some issues

i got lost on the runoff portion -- so, if doing it relgiosly, i'd say the runoff reading is simply bonkers. it's not always a very accurte thing. if not doing the runoff relgiously, start doing so. you may need a water-only irrigation. But the plant does not sue "3000 ppm" symptoms.. the plant would be dark and more sickly looking from being overfed by massive amounts. I think soemthing else is bloating those numbers. This doesn't look like lockout. It looks like a deficiency. The leaves woul dlook like shit if giving 3000ppm of nutes, lol. maybe probe touched the surface of tray hodling runoff? a little high concenration spot form some previous precipitate of runoff drying off? Runoff isnt very precise measurement anyway... i'd trust what you see in the leaves more. Testing it can help, but need a baseline of 'normal runoff levels' when things are healthy and happy to properly use that information.

Definitely 2nd the k-deficiency diagnosis. This is soilless? Just religiously get 10% runoff or more and it really can't build up in the medium unless you are lying about religiously getting 10% or more runoff. Kinda a mathematical certainty as long as you do. It may rest slightly higher than your feed, but it won't rise above that equilibrium when reached. This is one of the super powers of soilless/hydro - consistent, predictable level of nutes around the roots. This makes diagnosing easy as pie. Simple formula change fixes anything nutrient-related and it goes into effect almost immediately (in hydro it IS immediate on reservoir change). No worries about buildup causing lockout... if nutes are interfering with each other or not present at sufficient levels, then it is a matter of the formula and nothing else to consider except pH swings -- which and self-respecting soilless/hydro fertilzer should be ph-balance and ph-buffered to avoid that, too. Also, if you track PPMs over time, you'll quickly learn various upper /lower thresholds at which you'll see deficiencies/toxicities and effectively avoid it in future, too. IT's not all simple stuff.. fertilization is a culmination of every choice you made since the start. Feed heavier early on and you don't have to feed as heavy later on -- so it's not 100% apples to apples garden to garden. I show the per-nutrient ppm formula i use in my diaries. At flip it shifts. A week or two later it shifts again -- The only things i do differently is reduce Nitrogen in 2 steps. The most recent formula does lose a few ticks across the board to get down near ~80ppm N, but at this stage, the plant has been well-fed before this point and even if it causes a slight drawdown in the plant of other stuff, it never amounts to a visible deficiency of concern. In soilless, fertilizaton should be a no-brainer within a grow or two. You should just expect mostly healthy plants seed to harvest, because it is easy to accomplish if systematic about it and avoid the bro-science influences that inundate us. more than one way to skin this cat (some ways inevitably superior to others but that isn't fleshed out with research yet), so my numbers may not be what you want -- again it's a culmination of what was provided from the start. Any deviation will require slightly different formula down the road than what i needed in my diaries. But, proof on concept is there. The consistency is going on 7 years, so it's not a terribly small sample. Check out the pdf screenshot i added to recent week, too. It may profoundly change your perception of how to optimally provide nutes to the roots.

fossiif you were in hydroponics you were in hydroponics.. I would have told you to change the solution completely but having a soil that is an accumulation substrate it is very difficult now to change the damage done The only solution is to clean it as much as possible with osmosis but you still have to be careful not to destroy what little vital material is left once you drown with osmosis water with with a small amount of calcium and magnesium you have to be very careful because now you are in a very critical phase so it can absolutely it's just to buffer and minimize the damage done what I see is a deficiency in a mobile element so very likely it is potassium or phosphorus but even there it is not a deficiency it is an excess because the The tips of the other leaves are still burnt. The color is really strange. There is a wrong interaction between the elements. so I would say you want to keep the output PPM as low as possible and never water above 500 PPM if you water at 500pm Always remember that you will then have to give it time to absorb these elements. If you had used totally neutral soil such as coconut it would have been very easy to dispose of so depending on the soil The problem changes depending on the type of land you have

Potassium deficiency.

Bro, you've got phosphorus and potassium lockout from salt buildup in the medium. 3000 ppm runoff is really bad. pH 7.6 means the salts are making the medium too alkaline, blocking nutrient uptake. If in coco: flush with 3x pot volume of pH 5.8–6.0 water until runoff drops to 600–900 ppm. Then start feeding at half-strength bloom nutes (500–600 ppm) + Cal-Mag. You'll see results in 2–3 days. If in soil: flush with 2x pot volume of pH 6.2–6.5 water, wait 3–5 days for it to dry out, then water with half-dose nutrients + Cal-Mag (if using RO or soft water). Happy growing!

Just keep going like you are, at a reduced rate of feed, it's not bad yet so should be fine